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#1 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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![]() Ok, i'm halfway there, you guys helped me figure out what i needed to do this heads/cam swap (AFR 165, E-cam, hardened pushrods (7.200"), Crane roller lifters, ARP head bolts, FRPP timing set, adjustable FPR), and thank you very much. Now i need to know how to do it, so:
Anyone done a head and/or cam swap? Wanna describe it? ------------------ 90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs. Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60') |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,575
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![]() Messy tearing the motor apart, alot better putting it back to gather. Make sure all your parts are clean as new. Make sure you scrape all the old gasket off your block, then sand it with some 400 grit paper or so till it looks like new and shines, if you don't you will have problems, do it right so you only have to do it once.
------------------ 87 GT, 4 inch cowl hood,17x9 Cobra R's/255/45's,GT-40 heads,Crane 2031, Edelbrock intake, long tubes headers,h-pipe,Flows,BBK cold air, Mass air,70mm MAF, 1.7's, 1" spacer,underdrive pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra, Adj. fuel Reg., Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's. Best time 12.759 Best MPH 106.79 Best 60' 1.695 Visit my site at: http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html |
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#3 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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![]() OK..........anyone have anything to say about the cam? the heads seem pretty straight forward, but the cam is more complicated, ie, distributer removal? and really everything else.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,575
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![]() For the cam, you have to pull the radiator, and the AC condencer(I think thats what its called)has to be lifted and pushed aside, distributor comes right out. There are alot of bolts in the timing cover and water pump, just make sure you label where they go. When pulling the cam, make sure you don't knock the bearings, same for putting it in. Also you will want to get a new timing chain, and why not a new/rebuilt water pump($20). If I were you I would get someone that has alittle experiance to help you.
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#5 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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![]() thats what i thought....ugh, i just recently replaced the water pump. Any tips on keeping track of bolts?
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Raynham, Ma, USA
Posts: 189
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![]() Hey,
A few months ago, me and my buddy replaced his water pump on his 94 GT and as for keeping track of bolts, we just drew a quick pic of the pump and numbered where the bolts go and then put them aside in order by number. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bowling Green, OH
Posts: 270
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![]() Do you have to pull the waterpump off to remove the timing chain cover?
------------------ 1989 lx notch 89,000 miles bolt-ons,stock heads/cam 60'- 2.07, 8.90@78, 13.93@99 |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bowling Green, OH
Posts: 270
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![]() Dinomite- Are those the correct length pushrods or a typo? I think stock are 6.272" but I could be wrong.
------------------ 1989 lx notch 89,000 miles bolt-ons,stock heads/cam 60'- 2.07, 8.90@78, 13.93@99 |
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#9 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
|
![]() I was wondering about that, and noone ever said anything. I'm gonna be getting the heads from AFR, and those are the "standard length" pushrods they sell, so i just assumed they were right. Anyone know?
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