5.0 Engine Block thoughts

squid · 12-02-2002, 03:32 PM

I was looking for a used block to start building but then I thought why not ask others who have been there.
I plan on staying under 400 horsepower with this motor and doubt if I will ever spray Nitrous into it and theres no supercharger in the works either. I will be going with either a 331 or 347 stroker kit and wanted to know what thoughts everyone had on a block to start out with?

1. Find a stock block to rebuild? Does it have to be a roller Mustang block?
2. Buy a new Ford block for like 300 bux? Seems like a good deal?

Someone at the Colombus swap said to beware of 5spd. blocks because of crank end play?

PoonRacing · 12-02-2002, 03:56 PM

I got what you looking for. Block is off from 1988 Lincoln LSC (same as Mustang and they are roller block). e-mail me for more information. poonracing@yahoo.com

Sam. ( Canton, Ohio )

WADS56 · 12-02-2002, 04:02 PM

I would get a good used HO block and throw a 347 stroker kit in there. There is no reason to stay with a 331 if you are not going to spray, or blow it.
If you are going to stay around 400hp there is no need for a expensive forged kit either. You can get a basic stroker kit with I-beam rods, cast crank, and even hypertuctic pistons if you want. Throw in a set of main studs, and a girdle, and it will last a long happy life.

Don't worry about 5-speed blocks having to much end play. If it is true the block has nothing to do with it. The thrust bearing is what determins crankshaft endplay and you will be geting a new one anyway.

sn95gt19 · 12-02-2002, 05:53 PM

check out the chp, coast high performance kit (347) if its a daily driver i think this would be the 347 to go with, it has an offset piston pin, for reduced rod angle. and the 5.3 rod so the oil ring doesnt intersect with the pin bore. (havent heard of any problems with the oil ring in the pin bore, so you might get away with the 5.4 rod)

squid · 12-02-2002, 08:22 PM

Thanks for the info guys!
About this oiling problem I have heard mentioned from some manufacturers where the pin intersects the oil ring groove, Is this a myth ? It makes sense to me that you wouldnt want that pin thru the groove if at all possible.

BLACK85GT · 12-02-2002, 11:24 PM

I decided to go to the 351w block for the added strength, and added cubes. If you want to stay with the 302, 300 bucks is not bad for a new block.

VeNuM · 12-02-2002, 11:36 PM

A good used block is better in my opinion because it has been though heat cycles that some say make the block stronger. That, and when you're on somewhat of a budget, your 330 could be better spent. Just my opinion. ~Brian

WADS56 · 12-03-2002, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by squid
Thanks for the info guys!
About this oiling problem I have heard mentioned from some manufacturers where the pin intersects the oil ring groove, Is this a myth ? It makes sense to me that you wouldnt want that pin thru the groove if at all possible.

Myth

12-02-2002, 03:32 PM	#1
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	5.0 Engine Block thoughts I was looking for a used block to start building but then I thought why not ask others who have been there. I plan on staying under 400 horsepower with this motor and doubt if I will ever spray Nitrous into it and theres no supercharger in the works either. I will be going with either a 331 or 347 stroker kit and wanted to know what thoughts everyone had on a block to start out with? 1. Find a stock block to rebuild? Does it have to be a roller Mustang block? 2. Buy a new Ford block for like 300 bux? Seems like a good deal? Someone at the Colombus swap said to beware of 5spd. blocks because of crank end play? __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

12-02-2002, 04:02 PM	#3
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	I would get a good used HO block and throw a 347 stroker kit in there. There is no reason to stay with a 331 if you are not going to spray, or blow it. If you are going to stay around 400hp there is no need for a expensive forged kit either. You can get a basic stroker kit with I-beam rods, cast crank, and even hypertuctic pistons if you want. Throw in a set of main studs, and a girdle, and it will last a long happy life. Don't worry about 5-speed blocks having to much end play. If it is true the block has nothing to do with it. The thrust bearing is what determins crankshaft endplay and you will be geting a new one anyway. __________________ 79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49

12-02-2002, 05:53 PM	#4
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	check out the chp, coast high performance kit (347) if its a daily driver i think this would be the 347 to go with, it has an offset piston pin, for reduced rod angle. and the 5.3 rod so the oil ring doesnt intersect with the pin bore. (havent heard of any problems with the oil ring in the pin bore, so you might get away with the 5.4 rod) __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

12-02-2002, 08:22 PM	#5
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	Thanks for the info guys! About this oiling problem I have heard mentioned from some manufacturers where the pin intersects the oil ring groove, Is this a myth ? It makes sense to me that you wouldnt want that pin thru the groove if at all possible. __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

12-02-2002, 11:24 PM	#6
BLACK85GT Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tampa,FLORIDA Posts: 340	I decided to go to the 351w block for the added strength, and added cubes. If you want to stay with the 302, 300 bucks is not bad for a new block. __________________ 5.0, Holley heads, 1.7 Scorp Rockers, Stealth intake, Holley 600 carb, Holley Mech. Fuel pump, MSD 6Digital, MSD distributor, Hotchkis upper/lower rear control arms, FMS B Springs, 3:73 (8.8) rear. Production # 9,377

12-02-2002, 03:56 PM	#2
PoonRacing Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Canton, Ohio Posts: 4	I got what you looking for. Block is off from 1988 Lincoln LSC (same as Mustang and they are roller block). e-mail me for more information. poonracing@yahoo.com Sam. ( Canton, Ohio )

12-02-2002, 11:36 PM	#7
VeNuM Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 464	A good used block is better in my opinion because it has been though heat cycles that some say make the block stronger. That, and when you're on somewhat of a budget, your 330 could be better spent. Just my opinion. ~Brian __________________ 1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59

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