I have a quick question...

Kamaro Killer · 12-27-2002, 02:36 PM

When I try turning the key on my 88, I hear the fuel pump prime and the accessories come on, but the starter doesn't turn the flywheel. I can "hotwire" the car by putting a big screwdriver on the starter relay posts (the post with the power and ignition post) and the starter will turn the flywheel, but when I turn the key while it's in the ignition, nothing. Does this mean that my ignition is bad? Thanks, Keith

flyin 5.8 · 12-27-2002, 02:50 PM

Could be a neutral safety switch or the switch that says that the clutch is pushed in.

lx5091 · 12-27-2002, 03:03 PM

or....if you have an alarm with "starter kill" the wires may have come loose.

Kamaro Killer · 12-27-2002, 03:12 PM

where are those located? Can they be tested, or do they have to be replaced?

This is the whole situation. My engine was rebuilt about 1 year ago. I put the engine back in and screwed something up while trying to get the distributer in right. I got the engine started but wasn't getting power until 3000 rpm's. Instead of pulling the dist. out and moving it in one tooth over, I tried to pull the plug wires off the dist. and move them one post to the right. When I tried to start the car, nothing. I moved the plug wires back where they were when it started, and nothing. Now, when I try to turn the engine over, the fuel pump primes and the accessories come on, but the starter doesn't crank the flywheel. I tested the new coil I installed a few weeks ago, and the multi-meter shows that it's holding the right amount of power. When I test for spark (pulling the plug out and setting it against metal), I don't get spark. I tried starting it by putting a screwdriver against the ignition post and the power post on the starter relay and the starter cranked the flywheel over. I'm not sure what to do. or what to replace, but thanks for any help or ideas, Keith

bigred90gt · 12-27-2002, 03:27 PM

As far as why it won't turn over, I have no clue.

Quote:

When I test for spark (pulling the plug out and setting it against metal), I don't get spark. I tried starting it by putting a screwdriver against the ignition post and the power post on the starter relay and the starter cranked the flywheel over. I'm not sure what to do. or what to replace, but thanks for any help or ideas,

When this happened to me, I replace the dist and haven't had a problem since. It was the pickup coil, but I couldn't get it out, so I replaced the whole thing. Good luck.
Caymon

lx5091 · 12-27-2002, 05:52 PM

I don't know, but in my opinion, pulling the distributor and moving each wire is probably the same amount of work. I don't know why you didn't just undo the one bolt and reposition the distributor.

Anyway, where does the starter wire go before it reaches the solenoid? Is the computer involved? Hate to think you fried something, I'm really not sure.

flyin 5.8 · 12-29-2002, 01:06 PM

It's also possible that the solenoid is stuck. Have someone try to start the car and tap on the solenoid with a screwdriver handle several times while the key is in the start position. *WARNING* sometimes this works too well and the solenoid sticks in the other position and the starter keeps running after the key is turned off, if this happens just whack the solenoid a few more times.

gofastmercury · 12-29-2002, 01:58 PM

When you short the solenoid, try using the batt post and the little post on the side. If this works, then the solenoid is fine. Then you have to trace back the wires. The starter wire goes a few places from the key to solenoid. It goes to the either the neutral swich(auto) or clutch(man). On manual trans it also goes though the back-up harness on trans. Don'tknow why, but I found that one out myself when I changed the trans, and didn't hook it up that plug. JUst woundn't turn over. Good luck!

82 GT · 12-29-2002, 08:11 PM

Maybe it could be the ignition switch. Ford was notorious for ignition switches going bad.

Kamaro Killer · 12-30-2002, 03:34 PM

I tried starting the car again after not working on it for a few days, and when I turned the key, the starter actually cranked. I don't know if it's a switch that might be bad, or maybe my ignition is going bad. I need to pull my distributer out and try and set that in right and hopefully I could get the car to fire up. I'll let you guys know if I run into anything else. Is there a switch or fuse that might be making my ignition work at times, and not work at other times? I have an alarm in the car, but I don't think I have a kill switch hooked up (I didn't get it installed, it was on the car before I bought it). Thanks, Keith

82 GT · 12-30-2002, 04:47 PM

It shouldn't matter if the dist. is on/off a tooth as to weather or not the engine will crank over.
I'm still betting on the ignition switch itself being bad. It's either that switch or the one on the clutch pedal the prevents the engine from cranking when the clutch is not engaged.
BTW, fuses are either good or bad.

12-27-2002, 02:36 PM	#1
Kamaro Killer Mustang Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 528	I have a quick question... When I try turning the key on my 88, I hear the fuel pump prime and the accessories come on, but the starter doesn't turn the flywheel. I can "hotwire" the car by putting a big screwdriver on the starter relay posts (the post with the power and ignition post) and the starter will turn the flywheel, but when I turn the key while it's in the ignition, nothing. Does this mean that my ignition is bad? Thanks, Keith __________________ 1993 GT 5.0-My Stang Rice Hater's Club Member 22

12-27-2002, 02:50 PM	#2
flyin 5.8 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Holland, Michigan Posts: 73	Could be a neutral safety switch or the switch that says that the clutch is pushed in. __________________ If girls are made of sugar and spice, how come they taste like tuna? "Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD . . . you want to hit it, but your afraid of the consequences."

12-27-2002, 03:03 PM	#3
lx5091 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fall River, MA Posts: 467	or....if you have an alarm with "starter kill" the wires may have come loose. __________________ '02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford!

12-27-2002, 03:12 PM	#4
Kamaro Killer Mustang Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 528	where are those located? Can they be tested, or do they have to be replaced? This is the whole situation. My engine was rebuilt about 1 year ago. I put the engine back in and screwed something up while trying to get the distributer in right. I got the engine started but wasn't getting power until 3000 rpm's. Instead of pulling the dist. out and moving it in one tooth over, I tried to pull the plug wires off the dist. and move them one post to the right. When I tried to start the car, nothing. I moved the plug wires back where they were when it started, and nothing. Now, when I try to turn the engine over, the fuel pump primes and the accessories come on, but the starter doesn't crank the flywheel. I tested the new coil I installed a few weeks ago, and the multi-meter shows that it's holding the right amount of power. When I test for spark (pulling the plug out and setting it against metal), I don't get spark. I tried starting it by putting a screwdriver against the ignition post and the power post on the starter relay and the starter cranked the flywheel over. I'm not sure what to do. or what to replace, but thanks for any help or ideas, Keith __________________ 1993 GT 5.0-My Stang Rice Hater's Club Member 22

12-27-2002, 05:52 PM	#6
lx5091 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fall River, MA Posts: 467	I don't know, but in my opinion, pulling the distributor and moving each wire is probably the same amount of work. I don't know why you didn't just undo the one bolt and reposition the distributor. Anyway, where does the starter wire go before it reaches the solenoid? Is the computer involved? Hate to think you fried something, I'm really not sure. __________________ '02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford!

12-29-2002, 01:06 PM	#7
flyin 5.8 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Holland, Michigan Posts: 73	It's also possible that the solenoid is stuck. Have someone try to start the car and tap on the solenoid with a screwdriver handle several times while the key is in the start position. WARNING sometimes this works too well and the solenoid sticks in the other position and the starter keeps running after the key is turned off, if this happens just whack the solenoid a few more times. __________________ If girls are made of sugar and spice, how come they taste like tuna? "Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD . . . you want to hit it, but your afraid of the consequences."

12-29-2002, 01:58 PM	#8
gofastmercury Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: calgary alberta canada Posts: 366	When you short the solenoid, try using the batt post and the little post on the side. If this works, then the solenoid is fine. Then you have to trace back the wires. The starter wire goes a few places from the key to solenoid. It goes to the either the neutral swich(auto) or clutch(man). On manual trans it also goes though the back-up harness on trans. Don'tknow why, but I found that one out myself when I changed the trans, and didn't hook it up that plug. JUst woundn't turn over. Good luck! __________________ 93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires. my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250 NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft corrects to:13.86@100 66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver 12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft corrects to:11.69@115

12-29-2002, 08:11 PM	#9
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Maybe it could be the ignition switch. Ford was notorious for ignition switches going bad. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

12-30-2002, 03:34 PM	#10
Kamaro Killer Mustang Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 528	I tried starting the car again after not working on it for a few days, and when I turned the key, the starter actually cranked. I don't know if it's a switch that might be bad, or maybe my ignition is going bad. I need to pull my distributer out and try and set that in right and hopefully I could get the car to fire up. I'll let you guys know if I run into anything else. Is there a switch or fuse that might be making my ignition work at times, and not work at other times? I have an alarm in the car, but I don't think I have a kill switch hooked up (I didn't get it installed, it was on the car before I bought it). Thanks, Keith __________________ 1993 GT 5.0-My Stang Rice Hater's Club Member 22

12-30-2002, 04:47 PM	#11
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	It shouldn't matter if the dist. is on/off a tooth as to weather or not the engine will crank over. I'm still betting on the ignition switch itself being bad. It's either that switch or the one on the clutch pedal the prevents the engine from cranking when the clutch is not engaged. BTW, fuses are either good or bad. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

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