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01-14-2003, 01:25 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 167
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Caster/Camber necessary with FMS Springs??
Will Caster/Camber plates be necessary if I install the Ford Racing springs on my '89 GT? They only drop the car 7/8" front and 1/2" rear. I don't want to drop my car any lower. Also, what is the difference between the regular spring kit (FMS-M5300B) and the "Super Sports" (FMS-M5300C)? Price difference is 1 dollar at Summit. Summit also recommends Koni struts and shocks. Any comments on that? Thanks.
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01-14-2003, 01:52 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
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Go to the Corner-Carvers forrum and do a search. You should find my manufacturer and spring rate table.
You _might_ get away without CC plates. Mostly, they are used to not wear the insides of your tires when lowered. (to head off a new thread) get the Maximum Motorsport ones!
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
01-14-2003, 03:17 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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I put in fms-c springs and I love them. Expect tons of complaints from the girlfriend as these things beat your @$$ to a pulp on these crappy boston roads. Then again, If you want creature comfort, buy a towncar,not a mustang!
I'm running the stock plates, but I dont see any unusual wear patterns (...yet). Driving at 85 mph is interesting and keeps you on your toes as the car will follow every crack and groove in the highway (I didnt realign it), but it will "carve corners" like crazy. Taking a full circle highway exit at 60mph, the body simply does not roll at all. Lots of tire screeching and so forth but no body roll.
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
01-14-2003, 04:35 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Tampa,FLORIDA
Posts: 340
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Re: Caster/Camber necessary with FMS Springs??
Quote:
The B springs are progressive rate and the c springs are not. Basically the c springs are stiffer. This only applies to the fronts. The rears are the same in both sets. I just got the B set for mine but have not put em on yet.
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5.0, Holley heads, 1.7 Scorp Rockers, Stealth intake, Holley 600 carb, Holley Mech. Fuel pump, MSD 6Digital, MSD distributor, Hotchkis upper/lower rear control arms, FMS B Springs, 3:73 (8.8) rear. Production # 9,377 |
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01-14-2003, 08:27 PM | #5 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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To the people who run FMS B or C springs, does your car ever bottom out? How about with 4 people in the car, taking a dip in the road at 50mph? Also, how is clearance REALLY affected? Do you scrap a lot up driveways, etc? If so, how serious are the touchdowns and what parts are scratched/damaged?
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01-14-2003, 09:31 PM | #6 | |
Get down.....
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Room 103
Posts: 2,095
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Quote:
Clearence i have no problems with the 10 holes. i will be putting on 99 Cobras soon. I did install the rear rims(Cobra's) with 245/45 and i had no problems with fender lip, quad shock or tailpipe. The tailpipe was really close. every exhaust is different so that may be a problem for you.
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Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------ |
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01-15-2003, 09:48 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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c springs...no chance of bottoming out. The tail end does not "compress" like it does with those soft squishy stock springs. No thing that is super important, though, put the rubber isolators back in. Without them, I dont scrape...I grind everytime I take a turn.
Granted....My car is now 400lbs lighter, so it helps things along greatly
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
01-15-2003, 03:30 PM | #8 |
Backyard Mechanic/Chemist
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Acton MA USA
Posts: 435
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I have the B springs on my car, only on the rear for now. I had a broken rear spring, and the B springs raised the car vs the old broken shot stock springs.
I used the Energy Suspension urethane Isolators as well. The front springs are going on soon, had to take a detour to replace the transmission first The car bottoms less and tracks better vs the old springs. I am very happy as I did not really want to drop the car too much, and the FMS springs were cheaper than stock replacments.
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2001 Crown Vic Maurader Airbox/MAF, DR chip Edel IAS shocks Single exhaust :wtf: 93 P-71 Vic interceptor Backup car now 90 5.0 LX Notch SOLD 74 Chevy Laguna type S-3 454 under construction Currently apart undergoing bodywork. |
01-17-2003, 11:14 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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this is just a note for people that scrape their lowered car
you need to change your driving style a little. For driveways and speed bumps try going at them at an angle, one tire at a time. The more agressive the angle the less you will scrape the front valence. The only thing this doesn't work for is scraping exhaust over huge speed bumps but that shouldn't be a problem with FMS springs. A dude I know has a porche that is really low. We always laugh about him going over bumps "sideways". Either way his car is better than mine so I can't laugh too loud
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'88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
01-17-2003, 11:39 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
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Yeah, talk about being careful about low ride heights... I watch for everything!
That, and crappy roads, practically stops me from enjoying driving it to work in full race trim... Bent a freakin' wheel on a pothole
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
01-17-2003, 11:45 AM | #11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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hey Darius, how much you want to sell your car for??
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'88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
01-17-2003, 12:01 PM | #12 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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I'm thinking about installing a set of FMS B or C springs and a pair of Maximum Motorsports C/C plates in my stock 90 GT. Are any other things required for a proper alignment and handling, such as a bumpsteer kit or longer ball joints????? Keep in mind this will be a daily driver.
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01-17-2003, 12:21 PM | #13 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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IMOHO you'll be fine with those parts.
I started off with Eibach 450-580# springs and MM c/c plates, and that was fine.
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
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