how often shouold i start my car during winter months?

1jimmy__d · 02-22-2003, 04:58 PM

I just bought this car and was wondering how often i should be starting it. I have been starting it 1 time/week for about 15-20 minutes each time. Is this ok?

Also, does anyone know the size of the bolt that goes in the back of the driver side seat. My socket set pieces do not fit. Thanks!

Brcuda · 02-22-2003, 05:49 PM

It does not matter how often you start it just make sure all the fluids come up to heat, to keep condensation down.

302 LX Eric · 02-24-2003, 09:43 AM

I try to start my coupe at least once every 2-3 weeks, and let t come up to operating temp. I was even able to take her out for a quick spin a few weeks ago before all this snow hit.

I just like to keep the oil moving, battery somewhat charged, and keep the parts moving to some degree. Sounds like you're doing the same thing which should be just fine.

E

GhettoPop · 02-24-2003, 10:00 AM

I heard that if you store a car over winter, you should take it for a good drive once in a while. A good drive meaning some highway driving in order to get as much of the condensation out of the engine as possible. I also heard that if you simply start it up once in a while for 15 minutes and don't take it for a spin, it will actually add to the condensation build-up, rather then help it. Any truth to this?

1jimmy__d · 02-24-2003, 12:05 PM

thats what i was wondering- i have had it for about a month or so now. it is in my 1 car garage (wife pissed about parking in the snow covered driveway). anyways, maybe i should drive it around illegaly for a few minutes every once in a awhile.

302 LX Eric · 02-24-2003, 02:04 PM

If you just start it up and let it run a little while, you will get condensation build-up in the exhaust pipes for sure. Without stainless steel, you'll get a nice breeding ground for rust. The trick is to blow it out by revving the motor or taking it for a good 20 min drive so that the condensation build-up burns off the pipes.

Good catch, Getto.

E

GhettoPop · 02-24-2003, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 302 LX Eric
If you just start it up and let it run a little while, you will get condensation build-up in the exhaust pipes for sure. Without stainless steel, you'll get a nice breeding ground for rust. The trick is to blow it out by revving the motor or taking it for a good 20 min drive so that the condensation build-up burns off the pipes.

Good catch, Getto.

E

Thanks Bevis. I keep my 72 Challenger garaged all winter, and whenever I start it up, somtimes every 1-3 months (salty roads in NYC), I take a drive after its nice and warm. I don't start it up unless I am going to take it for a spin. I was not 100% sure if this was necessary, but it sounded like good advise and after 4 years of doing this the Mopar is still running hard!

87BOSS351C · 02-24-2003, 04:19 PM

This is the 7th winter I have stored my '72 Gran Torino. I just unhook the battery and don't touch the car again till spring. It sits from the end of September untill late March every year and I have never had any problems with it. The car sat for 7 years straight before I got it. It would only get started once a year during that time. I think you get more contamination in the oil by just letting it run for a short period of time. Its best to change the oil, park the car, then change the oil again in the spring. This is what most of the High $$ car collectors recommend.

GhettoPop · 02-24-2003, 04:33 PM

That makes a lot of sense 87 Boss. But if you leave your car ALL winter, don't your tires get warped? The guys I know who do that usually put their car on jackstands for the winter. I always change the oil in spring, but never before storage before fall, I'm gonna start doing that. I make only a few hundred miles on my Challenger per year. I change the oil every spring and once in summer. Should I change the oil filter as well each time? I know time can break down oil, but in my case, can the filter be changed just once a year?

TwiLighTBluEGT · 02-26-2003, 12:00 AM

I change my oil filter everytime I change my oil. Always have and always will.

87BOSS351C · 02-26-2003, 08:34 AM

I don't really worry about changing the oil in the Fall either, although I should. You should be ok not changing the filter in the fall, since you won't be running the car (not much at least). I never had any problems with the tires flat spotting or anything, but I park it grass in a shady area so the sun doesn't dry them out. Now that I have parked it for an extended period of time, I took the good tires off and put an old junk set on. I don't think radials flat spot like the old bias plys do, but I may be wrong.

GhettoPop · 02-26-2003, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TwiLighTBluEGT
I change my oil filter everytime I change my oil. Always have and always will.

Same here. I figure its only 5 bucks and your hands are already dirty!

fongo · 02-26-2003, 09:36 AM

I agree with 87BOSS351C. I've had my 93' stang (currently with 158K miles!) in the garage during the winter for the past two years. I still have the same tires and no significant changes to the car overall have been seen.
I personally start the car every week for about 20 minutes or so. Take it from a research chemist (myself! I get paid for a living to think about these things!..but I'd rather be racing and getting paid for it, right?) the amount of water condensate, the rate of evaporation of this condensate and its effect on the engine and exhaust is not big. Think about it. You warm up the engine at say 180º F or so. Water starts evaporating at around 90º F (30ºC..yep believe it or not!) and by the time you reach engine temperature, most of your water if not all is gone!
With this weather's low temperatures and snow conditions (New Yawk got hit with almost 3ft last week!), the little amount of condensation reacting with the metal alloys of the engine and exhaust to form rust is 'nada'.
Bottom line is..don;t worry. you're doing the right thing
happy and safe driving!

82 GT · 02-27-2003, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1jimmy__d

Also, does anyone know the size of the bolt that goes in the back of the driver side seat. My socket set pieces do not fit. Thanks!

If I remember correct, it's a 10mm

VeNuM · 02-28-2003, 11:00 AM

I removed my driver's seat yesterday, it was 15mm. ~Brian

02-22-2003, 04:58 PM	#1
1jimmy__d Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 299	how often shouold i start my car during winter months? I just bought this car and was wondering how often i should be starting it. I have been starting it 1 time/week for about 15-20 minutes each time. Is this ok? Also, does anyone know the size of the bolt that goes in the back of the driver side seat. My socket set pieces do not fit. Thanks! __________________ 90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!

02-22-2003, 05:49 PM	#2
Brcuda Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: St. Louis,Mo. USA Posts: 37	Hmmm It does not matter how often you start it just make sure all the fluids come up to heat, to keep condensation down. __________________ Just a SBF with blower :-) Donathen Racing (302MAN) Tuned by Bob Kurgan Motorsports AMT RACING ENGINES JEFFERS PRO CARS MUSTANG MUSCLE PERFORMANCE & DYNO SERVICE

02-24-2003, 09:43 AM	#3
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	I try to start my coupe at least once every 2-3 weeks, and let t come up to operating temp. I was even able to take her out for a quick spin a few weeks ago before all this snow hit. I just like to keep the oil moving, battery somewhat charged, and keep the parts moving to some degree. Sounds like you're doing the same thing which should be just fine. E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

02-24-2003, 12:05 PM	#5
1jimmy__d Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 299	thats what i was wondering- i have had it for about a month or so now. it is in my 1 car garage (wife pissed about parking in the snow covered driveway). anyways, maybe i should drive it around illegaly for a few minutes every once in a awhile. __________________ 90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!

02-24-2003, 02:04 PM	#6
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	If you just start it up and let it run a little while, you will get condensation build-up in the exhaust pipes for sure. Without stainless steel, you'll get a nice breeding ground for rust. The trick is to blow it out by revving the motor or taking it for a good 20 min drive so that the condensation build-up burns off the pipes. Good catch, Getto. E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

02-24-2003, 10:00 AM	#4
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	I heard that if you store a car over winter, you should take it for a good drive once in a while. A good drive meaning some highway driving in order to get as much of the condensation out of the engine as possible. I also heard that if you simply start it up once in a while for 15 minutes and don't take it for a spin, it will actually add to the condensation build-up, rather then help it. Any truth to this?

02-24-2003, 04:19 PM	#8
87BOSS351C Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Midland, Michigan Posts: 92	This is the 7th winter I have stored my '72 Gran Torino. I just unhook the battery and don't touch the car again till spring. It sits from the end of September untill late March every year and I have never had any problems with it. The car sat for 7 years straight before I got it. It would only get started once a year during that time. I think you get more contamination in the oil by just letting it run for a short period of time. Its best to change the oil, park the car, then change the oil again in the spring. This is what most of the High $$ car collectors recommend. __________________ Black '87 LX 5.0 5 spd T-top with 450hp '71 351 Cleveland 4V, C6 tranny, "and some other stuff" Rice Haters Club Member #124

02-24-2003, 04:33 PM	#9
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	That makes a lot of sense 87 Boss. But if you leave your car ALL winter, don't your tires get warped? The guys I know who do that usually put their car on jackstands for the winter. I always change the oil in spring, but never before storage before fall, I'm gonna start doing that. I make only a few hundred miles on my Challenger per year. I change the oil every spring and once in summer. Should I change the oil filter as well each time? I know time can break down oil, but in my case, can the filter be changed just once a year?

02-26-2003, 12:00 AM	#10
TwiLighTBluEGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 157	I change my oil filter everytime I change my oil. Always have and always will. __________________ 1991 Mustang GT Conv: 58,000 original miles, 2nd owner. Engine: FMS 65mm tb/spacer, C&L 73mm maf, MAC cai. Drivetrain: Built AOD w/ Edge 2800rpm lockup converter, hardened 3-4 inner shaft, Trans-Go shift kit, B&M supercooler, FMS 3.73 gears & aluminum d/s, rebuilt traction lock. Exhaust: BBK unequal length shorty headers, BBK o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers. Chassis/suspension/brakes: Kenny Brown supersubs. The rest is stock.

02-26-2003, 08:34 AM	#11
87BOSS351C Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Midland, Michigan Posts: 92	I don't really worry about changing the oil in the Fall either, although I should. You should be ok not changing the filter in the fall, since you won't be running the car (not much at least). I never had any problems with the tires flat spotting or anything, but I park it grass in a shady area so the sun doesn't dry them out. Now that I have parked it for an extended period of time, I took the good tires off and put an old junk set on. I don't think radials flat spot like the old bias plys do, but I may be wrong. __________________ Black '87 LX 5.0 5 spd T-top with 450hp '71 351 Cleveland 4V, C6 tranny, "and some other stuff" Rice Haters Club Member #124

02-26-2003, 09:36 AM	#13
fongo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Farmingdale, NY Posts: 139	I agree with 87BOSS351C. I've had my 93' stang (currently with 158K miles!) in the garage during the winter for the past two years. I still have the same tires and no significant changes to the car overall have been seen. I personally start the car every week for about 20 minutes or so. Take it from a research chemist (myself! I get paid for a living to think about these things!..but I'd rather be racing and getting paid for it, right?) the amount of water condensate, the rate of evaporation of this condensate and its effect on the engine and exhaust is not big. Think about it. You warm up the engine at say 180º F or so. Water starts evaporating at around 90º F (30ºC..yep believe it or not!) and by the time you reach engine temperature, most of your water if not all is gone! With this weather's low temperatures and snow conditions (New Yawk got hit with almost 3ft last week!), the little amount of condensation reacting with the metal alloys of the engine and exhaust to form rust is 'nada'. Bottom line is..don;t worry. you're doing the right thing happy and safe driving! __________________ 1993 GT, MAC Fenderwell Cold Air Induction; Accel dist.,Splitfire plugs, BBK: 1 5/8 unequal length shorties, hi flow H-pipe w/ cats; Flowmasters 2 chamber American Thunder catback system, Motorsports 3-core radiator, 180º thermostat, BBK adj. clutch quad...the rest is bone stock!..but more mods to come!!

02-28-2003, 11:00 AM	#15
VeNuM Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 464	I removed my driver's seat yesterday, it was 15mm. ~Brian __________________ 1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59

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