broken motor mount (anyone run with the other 3 only?)

06-04-2003, 09:37 PM

We were putting the motor back in the car and chipped off one of the bolt flanges on the block(about 1/2 inch off the side) (don't ask, lets just call it - crane operator error).

We could thead a bolt into the hole and it bit real tight, soooooo, we continued on with the installation. I'm thinking we're OK but I was wondering if anyone else has run one this way?

Thanks
Al

crazypete · 06-04-2003, 10:04 PM

Dont worry about it. I ran my last 5.0 with 3 motor mount bolts for years. Didn't even notice. This was on the passenger side rear mount post. A fully assembled 302 is pretty damn heavy, so it wont bounce around or anything on ya.

06-04-2003, 10:27 PM

Thanks,

That's what we were thinking. The bolt still had a good 1/2" or more of bite and locked down pretty good.

Sucks tho, our nice new Sportsman block is messed up. We'll see if it holds for the 450-500 rwhp we're hoping for (can't wait to get this blown stroker on the road)

Al

QuantumMotorsports · 06-05-2003, 12:31 AM

Which side of the car is the broken hole on? If it's on the drivers side it could fail under hard acceleration (since the engine turns clockwise looking from the front, the engine would try to turn counter clockwise and pull up on the drivers side mount) But if it threaded in a 1/2 inch, i wouldn't worry about it. Oh yeah, almost forgot, you could probably just use some JB Weld on it, right? hehehehe.

crazypete · 06-05-2003, 09:17 PM

Well, here's how I solved that problem years back when I rebuilt the block, but you gotta have a steady hand with the drill. If you take a drill bit that's smaller than the bolt shaft and start drilling out the core of the broken off bolt, one of two things will happen. Either the force of the drilling will pull the remainder of the bolt out or you will drill right through the entire shaft (I think there is a small untapped space at the very end of the threaded section in the mount). Once drilled through, you can pry the now hollow bolt apart and pull the threads out section by section, which is what I ended up doing. It's a pain, but it works

06-05-2003, 09:54 PM

Our first thought was, DAMN @##@#)@), then JB WELD (lol), then DAMN, then depression, then "well lets try threading a bolt into the remaining threads", then WOW it bit pretty good lets torque it, then ALRIGHT it torqued OK,

then - lets see if anyone else has been in this situation.

Now that I've had time to sleep on it, and with your input, I'm comfortable that we're OK.

It's the passenger side, front.

The crane slipped and the block smacked the edge of the mount, clipping the edge of the mounting flange on the block. So I wish it was just a broken bolt.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll let you know how it goes.

Al

06-04-2003, 09:37 PM	#1
StangFlyer Guest Posts: n/a	broken motor mount (anyone run with the other 3 only?) We were putting the motor back in the car and chipped off one of the bolt flanges on the block(about 1/2 inch off the side) (don't ask, lets just call it - crane operator error). We could thead a bolt into the hole and it bit real tight, soooooo, we continued on with the installation. I'm thinking we're OK but I was wondering if anyone else has run one this way? Thanks Al

06-04-2003, 10:04 PM	#2
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Dont worry about it. I ran my last 5.0 with 3 motor mount bolts for years. Didn't even notice. This was on the passenger side rear mount post. A fully assembled 302 is pretty damn heavy, so it wont bounce around or anything on ya. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

06-05-2003, 12:31 AM	#4
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Which side of the car is the broken hole on? If it's on the drivers side it could fail under hard acceleration (since the engine turns clockwise looking from the front, the engine would try to turn counter clockwise and pull up on the drivers side mount) But if it threaded in a 1/2 inch, i wouldn't worry about it. Oh yeah, almost forgot, you could probably just use some JB Weld on it, right? hehehehe. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

06-05-2003, 09:17 PM	#5
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Well, here's how I solved that problem years back when I rebuilt the block, but you gotta have a steady hand with the drill. If you take a drill bit that's smaller than the bolt shaft and start drilling out the core of the broken off bolt, one of two things will happen. Either the force of the drilling will pull the remainder of the bolt out or you will drill right through the entire shaft (I think there is a small untapped space at the very end of the threaded section in the mount). Once drilled through, you can pry the now hollow bolt apart and pull the threads out section by section, which is what I ended up doing. It's a pain, but it works __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

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06-04-2003, 10:27 PM	#3
StangFlyer Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks, That's what we were thinking. The bolt still had a good 1/2" or more of bite and locked down pretty good. Sucks tho, our nice new Sportsman block is messed up. We'll see if it holds for the 450-500 rwhp we're hoping for (can't wait to get this blown stroker on the road) Al

06-05-2003, 09:54 PM	#6
StangFlyer Guest Posts: n/a	Our first thought was, DAMN @##@#)@), then JB WELD (lol), then DAMN, then depression, then "well lets try threading a bolt into the remaining threads", then WOW it bit pretty good lets torque it, then ALRIGHT it torqued OK, then - lets see if anyone else has been in this situation. Now that I've had time to sleep on it, and with your input, I'm comfortable that we're OK. It's the passenger side, front. The crane slipped and the block smacked the edge of the mount, clipping the edge of the mounting flange on the block. So I wish it was just a broken bolt. Thanks for the input guys. I'll let you know how it goes. Al