re: new block

[LEMON8R]

I have a 95 Mustang GT with a Vortech supercharger and we are going to make some "improvements." AFR 185 heads and an Edelbrock Performer manifold were ready to go on when we decided, why waste all this on an old stock block? I am currently deciding between the M-6010 A4 cast iron block and the M-6010-c302 aluminum block. The aluminum block is about twice as expensive but it is lighter. Any thoughts?

[PKRWUD]

Hey, if money is no object, get the aluminum block. it will save quite a bit of weight, and with the mild mods you're adding, you'll be looking for all the help you can get to go fast.



Take care,
~Chris

[DblAdigger]

Well, since A4 blocks have been out of production for years, your choices are: 1) stock block. 2) M-6010-B50 sportsman block. The B50 is only a little stronger than a stock block. 3) M-6010-R302 this is the race block that replaced the A4. 4) One of the new DART blocks, vert strong. or, 5)M-6010-F302, the expensive Aluminum block. Check your wallet and pick one.

[rbohm]

by all means if you can afford it go with the aluminum block. if you window it, it is repairable more easily than the iron blocks are.

[jonnyk]

I wouldn't put an aluminum block in anything short of an all out drag engine that is rebuilt often. They expand and things shift around, and critical clearances move around. Not worth the weight reduction IMO. Only good thing in my eyes is if you blow it up, aluminum can be repaired easily. Then again, a properly built A4/R302/Dart iron based engine probably won't ever come apart

[KJ94GT]

R-blocks are very nice. A4 blocks can be found if you look long enough and hard enough. Aluminum blocks are roughly double the cost of an iron block. The DART blocks are nice as well, but some engine builders do not prefer them. I will be happy with my R-block as soon as I'm finished putting everything together.

[richd]

I don't understand, why would aluminum be less reliable? There are tons of Hondas with all aluminum engines, some pushing double the horsepower per liter over a stock 5.0.

As long as you have cast iron cylinder sleeves you should be fine. Am I missing something?

As far as iron blocks go, I've heard that as long as there are no cracks and everything can be kept within tolerances an old "seasoned" block will be stronger than a new block. Has to do with the number of heat cycles it's been through.

[BilLster]

If money wasnt a concern Aluminum all around .

There isnt a problem with shifting like in the 70's when they first came out (Vega with teflon sleaves).Which worked when you put iron sleeves in.

The cobra block is Aluminum isnt it ?

The R-Block I've seen not just heard peoples problems with them also , I wish Dart made a Aluminum block. The A-4 was to good so they stopped making it.

Last time I looked into it the Aluminum block i wished for was like $5000.00 all finished and could be bored and strocked to (454) and set up for yates heads. good yates heads are pricey also.

[rbohm]

aluminum bloxk are more reliable than iron blocks are, especially with aluminum heads. you have far fewer head gasket problems when the heads and block are the same material. also aluminum blocks use STEEL sleeves in the bores. if you want some real fun, get ford to set you up with a plastic block and head they were experimenting with in the 80's. they actually used it in a race car, the mustang probe, and it did ok. the block, head, oil pan,etc were all plastin. the only metal it used were steel sleeves, bearings(cank and cam), valve guides pistons, rods, valves, and cam. the engine made like 650hp from 2.3 liters.

[LEMON8R]

I appreciate the "second opinions" that have been posted to help me make the decision about my block. One private reply suggested that I sit on the crapper with magazines and try to think up my "dream engine." To that individual I must ask, "Do you have a hidden camera in the john at my office?"

Seriously, this has been very helpful. As a "dumb doctor" I tend to think that "more expensive must be better" and I'm pretty good at pissing away money. The aluminum block is two to three times the cost of the iron blocks but seems to have the following advantages: 1) the aluminum block has additional reinforcement that allows it to be built to a larger displacement (I hear up to 360 cubic inches) 2) it's lighter 3) the expansion of the heads and block will match better- which is better for the head gaskets and 4) it looks too damn cool. Now I just need to decide if equal length headers are really better than standard shorty headers....oh well, it's always something.

RHL

By the way, even in it's slightly modified form this car still embarrasses other dumb doctors in their stupid japanese and german cars. Now my goal is to take that jerk with the Z06.....

[rbohm]

in the shorty headers, the equal length ones are a bit better than the nonequal length ones, but save your money on that for a few reasons;
1: the difference is not enough to worry about.
2: if you plan on doing any racing at the track and getting the most out of the car possible, you dont want shorties anyway.

that said, to take the Z06 vette guy, think supercharger.

[LEMON8R]

I'm sorry, I thought you saw the stuff at the top- this car has a Vortech on it already, we're just trying to "kick it up a notch." I'm still trying to figure out where to put the intercooler. They don't make one for the 95 but there is a kit that Vortech makes that can be adapted. There is just no room in the enging bay for it and, yes, I have already moved the battery to what little trunk I have left after the Kenwood stereo went in....

RHL

[rbohm]

sorry didnt see the supercharger deal.