What is the best K-member to buy for quality and fit?

ciara · 07-20-2003, 06:12 AM

I am looking to buy a k-member with the tubular A arms and coil overs. What is a good kit to buy? I see the prices ranging from $650 to over a $1000. I have an 84 mustang.

QuantumMotorsports · 07-21-2003, 09:24 AM

Go to jegs.com and go to the mustang section under suspension and find the QA1 Motorsports Pro-Active systems. I have their K member with stock A arms and springs setup, but they also have tubular A arms and coil overs. In my opinion it's a bit cheaper, but just as good as D&D, groundpounder, or other brands.

cyberstang5.0 · 07-23-2003, 07:11 AM

I bought my QA1 Tublar K-member from Summit. It's a good fit, and very strong. It makes it 100 times easier to work around. The only complaint I have with the QA1 is it pushes up the front wheels 1-2 inches (I'm useing the stock A arms also). If you have wide tires, this can cause rubbing. That's my biggest problem now!

I can't turn my wheels lock to lock. I'm going to have to find a way to modify my front fender wells a little bit, or put my skinnier tires back on the fronts.

QuantumMotorsports · 07-23-2003, 11:02 AM

Yeah, I did notice that, but I think maybe all of the K members do that. Most of them boast "revised suspension geometry" and I think that's what they're talking about, but who knows. The only other thing I noticed about it, is that my rack from my 84 doesn't have the right bushings to fit, I had to press them out and get later model bushings.

cyberstang5.0 · 07-23-2003, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by QuantumMotorsports
The only other thing I noticed about it, is that my rack from my 84 doesn't have the right bushings to fit, I had to press them out and get later model bushings.

What I did is kept the rubber bushings on/in the rack and pushed it on the "pegs" of the K-member. Then I bolted it down (the "pegs" are internally threaded) with a huge washer holding the rack on the K-member.

QuantumMotorsports · 07-23-2003, 03:19 PM

Yeah, I hear you, but what I'm saying is that the bushings that are in the earlier (84 LX) rack are not the same as the later model bushings. I have done an 87 or later car and it is just as you describe. But the bushings on the 84 car have a metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing that is part of the bushing and is too small and the 84 bushings are pressed into the rack. So I pressed the old bushings out and got new polyurethane bushings to put in.

07-20-2003, 06:12 AM	#1
ciara Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 100	What is the best K-member to buy for quality and fit? I am looking to buy a k-member with the tubular A arms and coil overs. What is a good kit to buy? I see the prices ranging from $650 to over a $1000. I have an 84 mustang.

07-21-2003, 09:24 AM	#2
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Go to jegs.com and go to the mustang section under suspension and find the QA1 Motorsports Pro-Active systems. I have their K member with stock A arms and springs setup, but they also have tubular A arms and coil overs. In my opinion it's a bit cheaper, but just as good as D&D, groundpounder, or other brands. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

07-23-2003, 11:02 AM	#4
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Yeah, I did notice that, but I think maybe all of the K members do that. Most of them boast "revised suspension geometry" and I think that's what they're talking about, but who knows. The only other thing I noticed about it, is that my rack from my 84 doesn't have the right bushings to fit, I had to press them out and get later model bushings. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

07-23-2003, 03:19 PM	#6
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Yeah, I hear you, but what I'm saying is that the bushings that are in the earlier (84 LX) rack are not the same as the later model bushings. I have done an 87 or later car and it is just as you describe. But the bushings on the 84 car have a metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing that is part of the bushing and is too small and the 84 bushings are pressed into the rack. So I pressed the old bushings out and got new polyurethane bushings to put in. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

07-23-2003, 07:11 AM	#3
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	I bought my QA1 Tublar K-member from Summit. It's a good fit, and very strong. It makes it 100 times easier to work around. The only complaint I have with the QA1 is it pushes up the front wheels 1-2 inches (I'm useing the stock A arms also). If you have wide tires, this can cause rubbing. That's my biggest problem now! I can't turn my wheels lock to lock. I'm going to have to find a way to modify my front fender wells a little bit, or put my skinnier tires back on the fronts.