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Old 08-30-2003, 02:56 PM   #1
1jimmy__d
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Default TIMING 101 for Dumbasses

OK, I went out and bought a timing light; an actron inductive timing light. How in the hell do i check the timing on this baby? I need every step broken down. Even the terms you use to describe the parts of the car. I thought I would just hook the baby up and push a button and see a number! This thing doesnt even have numbers on it. I was flashing it on the timing mark metal piece, and every once in a blue moon I would see like 3 marks only for a second. Is this the right kind of timing light i need, or should i get the more expensive one that might have numbers on there? Boy oh boy, this should be simple
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 08-30-2003, 05:27 PM   #2
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Last week was the first time I ever messed with my timing and I've had the car since new. Anyway, I got under the car so I could see the timing marks. Then put a thin line of white out on the 10 and 20 mark (just for reference) then one for 16 (that was max that I was going to go). Loosened distributor hold down bolt (mine was 12mm). Then hooked up the light (#1 wire and the pos/neg terminals). Took out the spout connector (mine was by the air filter had to look at a manual to find it exactly). Allowed the car to warm to operating temp made sure the timing light wires were away from fan and headers. When it was warm I shot the light between the alternator and upper rad hose toward the timing pointer. Then turned the distributor to what I thought was 14 degrees. Shut off car and removed light and retightened hold down bolt and put the SPOUT plug back in. Not sure if that was the best way but the car runs fine.
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Old 08-30-2003, 06:53 PM   #3
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why did you think it was 14 degrees? i have three lines on mine already. i think they were 0, 10, and 20. one is pink colored and the other white. is the light supposed to be flashing on and off eratically? also, isnt the sput connector on the distributor, I didnt think that neede to come off, thanks

jim
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 08-30-2003, 06:55 PM   #4
HotRoddin
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I put some pix up that may or may not help. Your spout conn. etc. may be in different places than mine ( pix are from a tired old T-Bird headed for the bone yard) but it will give you something to look at. Hope it helps, here's the link
http://www.members.tripod.com/thefal...timing101.html
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:07 PM   #5
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thanks hotroddin. because i have three marks on my crankshaft, how do i tell which is which,
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:13 PM   #6
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The SPOUT was moved on the 94-95 models I assume because of heat from the engine. I believe they are set at 10 degree from the factory (mine was a shade under 10). I had read somewhere that 16-18 was about the most you could advance. So I tried 14, the motor didn't ping but felt sluggish compared to 10. So after test driving I set it back to 12 it felt better but I can't tell if it was better than at 10. Anyway on my timing light it only flashed when the marks could be seen. Are you on the #1 wire? Frontmost on the passenger side. Also on my crankshaft it didn't have any marks other than what was indented on it from the factory 10-0-10-20-30 and it was rusty and hard to read.
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:19 PM   #7
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thanks, i was actually on the driver side! what a dumbass. alos, i dosconnected the thing which is attached to the distributor. it wouldnt start, so that obviously isnt the sput connector. i cant find this damn thing! if i can find it, i should be good to go now! thanks for all replies to help this dumbass!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:27 PM   #8
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I'll try looking in my old magazines to find where the Fox body SPOUT connector is. But if it's any help on mine it's a light gray rectangluar plug in a black connector that has just two wires going to it. Good luck.
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95 GT w/ AODE and Transgo Shift kit, trans cooler, SpeedCal, KB 1.5 Flowzilla w/ 6# pulley, MAC chrome CAI, chrome radiator hoses, stock MAF w/ center post removed, 70mm PP TB, electrical boost & FP gauges, digital A/F gauge, 1 5/8" unequal headers, 2 1/2" ProChamber h-pipe, Borla catback exhaust, and 3.55's. Cobra RR hood, Saleen double wing, Xenon body kit, chrome Cobra R wheels 17X8 in front and 17X10.5 in the back.
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:33 PM   #9
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I was also wondering if you had any probs w/ your jacobs? I used to have the ultra system but the damn thing would keep shooting spark even w/ the engine off and key out of the ignition. Had to get a battery cut-off. Finally the whole system went shot and had to try something different.
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95 GT w/ AODE and Transgo Shift kit, trans cooler, SpeedCal, KB 1.5 Flowzilla w/ 6# pulley, MAC chrome CAI, chrome radiator hoses, stock MAF w/ center post removed, 70mm PP TB, electrical boost & FP gauges, digital A/F gauge, 1 5/8" unequal headers, 2 1/2" ProChamber h-pipe, Borla catback exhaust, and 3.55's. Cobra RR hood, Saleen double wing, Xenon body kit, chrome Cobra R wheels 17X8 in front and 17X10.5 in the back.
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:42 PM   #10
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OK!!!!!!! After figuring out what to do, all my questions sound like a DUMBASS if you knew how to do it. it helps to know which one the #1 wire is as well. I set it to about 15 degrees. i am going to drive it around to see how it runs. I think that is too high so i may retard it to about 13. This is sweet, now i can change the timing in about 3 minutes. My cpout connector was all wrapped up in tape so i couldnt see it. Now, all good! Sometimes my car boggs down or back fires when cold and under load. So will retarding or advancing help this? Thanks again for all replies.

My Jacobs system has been sweet. EVeryone I talk to says the same as well!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 08-30-2003, 09:02 PM   #11
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drove it around it seems ok to me. cant really tell a difference except that i "think" it has a little more power in the lower rpm's. my car really pulls at 3000 and higher. but below this it seems just ok. now, it seemed to pick up a little quicker at that low rpm range! OR is this all in my head??????
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 08-30-2003, 09:15 PM   #12
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Mine acts the same way. It seems to pull harder above 3K.
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Old 08-31-2003, 11:26 AM   #13
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i thikn that is when my car is stronger anyways, so thats the way it is supposed to be i guess. i could swear that it is more powerful now though, however it may be too high if i try to hit the nitrous!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 09-01-2003, 11:10 PM   #14
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Don't hit the nitrous unless you retard the timing!
For best performance set it at 16* see if it spark knocks at high RPM's if so back off 1* til it stops. I've heard of people running 18-19* initial.

P.S. I wish I had your engine, since you're asking about adjusting timing I'm guessing you did'nt put it together youself, I hate people with money
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DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ
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Old 09-02-2003, 05:17 PM   #15
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I wish I had money too . I actually sold an 89 convertable i had and spent the difference, which was 3 grand. not bad for everything i wanted in a motor (almost everything)! YOur right though, I dont know a damn thing about building or working on motors, thats why im here Anyways I rechecked my timing for the heck of it and it seemed to be around 18, I must have thought 16. My question is, where do you look exactly when reading the timing? I know there is an arrow there, but the arrow is really wide, and the lines for timing are very skinny, how do you know exactly what your timing is? Thanks
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:35 PM   #16
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Whenever I check mine I wipe off the area where the timing marks are with a damp rag, you should distinctly see 10* mark & 20* mark with ten lines between them(with timing light) I put whiteout on 15*
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DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ
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Old 09-03-2003, 09:05 PM   #17
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i understand what your saying and have mine marked at 10,14, and 20. BUT, the arrow you use to see where the timing is is pretty thick. should i look in the middle, top, or bottom of it. It appears that the thickness of the arrow covers a 4 degree range becaseu the marks are by 2. Does this make sense? Thanks
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac!

75 shot of nitrous!

13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:06 PM   #18
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One thing that might help is that Mr. Gasket has a timing tape to put on the balancer. It has brite white numbers on a black backround. Sure makes it easy to see. I got mine from Summit I think its about 7 or 8 bucks.
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:34 PM   #19
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Just guage it about in the middle of the pointer, you'll be pretty close, if it knocks just back off a bit.
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DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ
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