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02-25-2004, 08:50 PM | #1 |
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My First 5.0
Hey,
I finally got my first 5.0 mustang, its a 1995 GT with a 5 Speed, its lazer Red and has 152k Freeway/old lady miles on it. I picked it up Monday and Tuesday i had already removed the air intake silencer. I just felt like sharing that and i had a question about a jumping timing mark. When i went to check the timing the mark was jumping around about a 1/4" on the dampner,at idle, and i also couldn't see any timing marks anywhere. I was wondering what could cause that. Also in the next month or two i am planning on adding a BBK 65mm TB, C&L 76mm MAS, BBK Cold Air Intake, Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, a Pro 5.0 or Tri-Axe Shifter, 4.10 gears, subframe connectors and either BBK Boxed or Maybe HPM Mega-Bite Jr. Upper And Lower control arms. Dose anyone have an estimate on what my car might be able to do in a 1/4 mile with these parts(on MT ET Streets)? or any guess on Horsepower Im Hoping for around 225-245 at the wheels after i get headers, high flow cats and mufflers. Is this a realistic guess. Thanks for any info Steven PS Sorry for the long message |
02-25-2004, 09:25 PM | #2 |
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close...
I think you are close on your guesstimate hp wise.
But it depends on the shape of the internals and compression etc...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
02-25-2004, 10:37 PM | #3 |
It's never clean enough!
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For the timing marks, I use white-out. I know those timing marks on the stock balancer aren't very easy to see. The white-out is easily visable with a timing light and doesn't make a mess in the factory marks. I have 0* and 10* highlighted on my balancer. It makes adjusting the timing alot easier and you can always scrape off the white-out with a razor blade when you're done.
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02-25-2004, 11:02 PM | #4 |
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LAZER50 did you pull the SPOUT connector before you checked the timing? If you didnt theres your problem, if you did youve got other problems.
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'95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes |
02-25-2004, 11:18 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for the tip Stang_Crazy
Lethal50h- I didn't disconnect the spout connector, i though that you only had to do that when you are going to change timing, I will try that tomarrow. Also where is the spout on the engine and what might it look like? Thank you guys for the help |
02-25-2004, 11:29 PM | #6 |
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On the side of the distributer there's a small wire clip hanging off of with a plastic insert in it (grey I think, pretty much there to complete the circuit). As far as timing marks, I used chalk and marked 10* and 15* to see if it was set at the stock setting and to know how high to set it.
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1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns. |
02-26-2004, 12:43 AM | #7 |
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I think i found the spout connector, its a small clip on the outside maybe a 1/8-1/4 inch below the cap on the distributor, its rapped in a black waxy woven covering that can be easly pulled back, i will try messing with the timing and make marks on the dampner. Thanks for the help guys.
Steven |
02-26-2004, 07:47 PM | #8 |
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On a 95 the spout is located on the passenger side fender, just sticking up behind the air box closer to the strut tower. i dont know what your talking about but i would suggest pulling it. With the spout pulled your timing should be at 10 degress BTDC.
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'95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes |
02-26-2004, 09:59 PM | #9 |
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Thanks Lethal, When i disconnected the other plug the engine would not start, and when disconnected while running would also kill the engine, So once again i will try, i also need to find something to mark the dampner with because at this time i cant see any timing marks on it so i really have no idea what its at, when i checked it today it was about an 1/8 " from the timing marker towards the passenger side, so i am guessing it is either actually retarded about 2 degrees, any input would be helpfull.
Steven |
02-26-2004, 10:09 PM | #10 |
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I used a piece of yellow chalk, it showed up rel bright with the timing light. Make a long mark where you want it set then a small one a few degrees less this way you can see both and know which way to go with the distributor. I made one at 10* and 15*, when I put the timing light on it it was on 10* and I knew which way/how much it needed to go. The spout connector isn't a harness plugged into anything, it looks like a small wire harness thats unplugged and hanging with a plastic cap inserted. I thought it was a dust cap, but it's there to complete a circuit.
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1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns. |
02-28-2004, 12:05 AM | #11 |
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Welcome to the 5.0 world. Your list of mods will pay off well, I would work on doing the exhaust too (mainly the H-pipe the factory one is VERY restrictive).
Make sure you pull the spout connector prior to checking the timming and I marked mine with chaulk I had around the garage.
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04 Screamin Yellow Cobra KB 2.4 (585/556 pump 626/666 race) 00R brakes, DFX clutch, Level 5's, return fuel system, Lts with 3" exhuast, FR500 wheels and all the other fun stuff. GONE 1991 Lx sedan 5.0, 5spd (Liberty proshifted TKO) S-trim, Ported TF heads everything parted out. |
02-28-2004, 06:48 PM | #12 |
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I checked the timing its around 8 degrees, i couldn't change it while at school because we didn't have a 1/2" distributor wrench. I am planning on going to the track this next weekend and was wondering what kinda times i should be able to run, so far iv removed the air silencer, im going to put a short belt on(anyone know what size?),advance timing to 14-15degrees, ice the intake and take out the passenger/rear seats along with the spare tire/jack. I am hoping to also put sythetic oil in along with new plugs, wires and rotar. Im thinking that mids to high 14's is fairly realistic. If anyone can offer some driving advice or any thing else, input is appreciated.
Steven |
02-29-2004, 08:54 AM | #13 |
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I would guess that exhaust mods only would put you more in the 210-215 HP range, but you never know till you try.
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Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/ |
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