Just bought a pair of 69 Windsor heads, Help.

[NitroNixon]

I just bought a pair of 351W heads from a guy, and I was told that they are 69 heads. The casting # is C9OE. The valves definitely look bigger that my E7 valves and the intake/exhaust ports look bigger as well. If I installed these heads on my 302 will I notice a big difference in power compared to my stock E7's? I'm thinking of having them ported before I install them, only because I paid $150 for the heads which I think is pretty cheap.

What cam do you guys recommend for these heads.

[NitroNixon]

Also forgot to ask, I was told that I need to install hardened valve seats in these heads to be able to run unleaded fuel, is this true? What else would I need to do to these heads to get them ready?

[~The Jester~]

A C9 casting number is 1969 Fairlane or Torino for sure. HAVE to take care of the valve seat issue! No choice in the matter, sorry dude. You should notice a moderate increase in performance due to the better flow, bigger valves, etc etc. Cam is up to you, if it's a stock motor other than these heads, and a good intake, I'd go with about .480" lift or so.

[NitroNixon]

Thanks.

[drudis]

THe 69 heads also have more compression.
I ran a 1970 block with 1969 heads and came up with 10.7:1 compression with flattop pistons.

THe valve seats are a great idea.

The valves are bigger in 1.86" & 1.54" (if I remember right).

ANY cam with under .500" lift ought to do you fine, but thats a whole new can of worms... [which cam question]

[NitroNixon]

Thanks, I priced the machine work at the shop at it roughly $400-$500 for a complete rebuild, new seats, valve job, mill, etc., and that doesn't include the roller rocker I would have to buy.

Now I'm stuck and don't know what to do.

[drudis]

You could always go the cheap route, and not spend tons of money on rebuilt stock heads...


Dont replace the valve seats. Deal with it, maybe even add some lead-imposter fuel additives.

Rockers, get the roller-TIP (not roller rocker) and deal with the pedestal mount non-adjustable studs. With under .500" lift, you wont need HD valvesprings, and no pinning (drill and dowel pin) the stock rocker studs.

Port the "tonsil" (the EGR boss) out of the exhaust port. Just grind it flat to the contour of the port.

Voila, done! My freind ran "my" heads (before I bought them) that way for a few years successfully.

[EDIT]
My point: You bought $150 heads. Unless the valve seat are shot, put them on and run the $150 heads. If you are going to start dumping money into the heads, go elsewhere. You can find nice aftermarket heads for the price you'll spend getting some stockers cleaned up.

[NitroNixon]

So the hardened exhaust valve seats are really nessessary? I was told that if I get new valve seats, I will need a valve job also, is that true. Keep in mind that this will be my daily driver. I saw some roller tip rockers on ebay for 60 bucks new. Also, a buddy of mine will help me port out the exhaust side alittle.

[~The Jester~]

I'll sell you my DART Windsor Sr. heads for $750 and REALLY wake your motor up. Heads have BRAND NEW 2.02" Manley stainless intake valves, good used Manley stainless 1.60" exhaust valves, all new locks, heads were machined to accept the brand new Comp Cams valve stem seals, already has the hardened valve seats, and I just lapped the valves in. They've been gasket matched on both sides to Fel Pro gaskets. Bolt them on and GO. Springs are good up to .610" lift. I'll even throw in the guide plates and 7/16" rocker studs.

Pics available on request.
Any takers?