T-5 fluid/problem

[Just me]

Hello. I'm having a hard time with my t-5. I replaced the fluid with ATF DextronIII a month ago. I put the right amount. I don't actually remember what I put in for fluid the last time I did this. My problem is that the tranny shift fine and smooth, but after about 20 minutes of driving, I can't get it into 1st or reverse without fiddling and fighting the shifter. I replaced the clutc/pressure plate, rear main seal, bearing, etc. recently so all works well with the assembly but the t-5 has had this annoying problem before and after the clutch build. Any ideas? Thanks

Just me

[Ieatcamaros]

Sounds like it could be the synchros. Do you have an adjustable clutch cable? I know you said it was doing this before and after the clutch replacement. Why did you change the clutch? Upgrade or slipping? Does it go into all the other gears fine when driving? What about when sitting still? If you shut the motor off, then will it go into gear?

[Jthompson]

I'm willing to bet the farm that you are adjusted too loosely.

read up on this article I wrote, this should clear up EVERYTHING. If it doesn't, ask me.

http://50stangs.com/techarticles/clu...djustment.html

[Just me]

Ieatcamaros & Jthompson, I have a Steeda adjustable cable that I adjust a little on the tight side. I changed my clutch and flywheel because my flywheel was warped from racing( I hope). The tranny shifts very smooth when the car is off or on while everything is cold. After about 15 minutes, I can barely shift to any gear for a few minutes then it'll smooth out again and then it'll get impossible. In a parking lot, sometimes the car feels like its pushing a bit with the clutch pedal pushed all the way down but the clutch is adjusted exactly like Jthompson's link reads. I believe Jthompson's method is best for me considering I have a lightweight clutch foot. I can always rest my left foot on the pedal without worrying of wear because of the stiffness. It isn't how I warped my flywheel either(I hope). I'm going to check and make sure I didn't twist the cable when I adjusted the firewall part. The only thing that I can say that changes from the time I start the car till the time it warms up and can't shift, is my idle. I have a bumpy cam. When the car is cold(after initial choke), it idles at around 700 with a steady strong lope. When I've been driving for a while, my idle reaches 1k and maintains a steady smooth lope which I like but then I'll have more problems shifting. The car is barely street legal so I've been tuning it for the smoothest driving. I loose brake pressure from the cam after I've been driving for a while but that is expected. Its Friday and I'm rambling about this. Sorry, its just that where I live here in Miami, everyone threw away their cat back stuff and race up and down major roads all day and I can't get out of the way fast enough with this shifting problem he he. No wonder we have a bad traffic rap. Thanks for your help.
Just me

[tireburner163]

Adjust the cable so it's a little tighter.


-Josh, aka the tireburner

[Just me]

thank you. I'm gonna tighten up the cable more.

[Jthompson]

I agree, sounds like you are too loose.

Best way is to SECURELY jack the rear end so the wheels are off the ground, support with jack stands. Tighten the cable. To test, get in the car, put it into first, and fire it up. LEave your foot on the clutch. If you are adjusted too loosely, the rear wheels will spin. (obviously be sure your foot is not on the brake)

[Scrapla]

Yea when I replaced my quad and installed firewall adj. it took me so long to get it just right and the only real advice I had was the clutch pedal should engage about 2" off the floor.

[Just me]

You guys saved my transmission from my own self! Thank you. I tightened up the cable with the rear wheels up and got the adjustment perfect. I can actually race again now. Mucho smooth!
I sense the force is strong with this one muhaha. Thank you.
Just me