I now have the codes! how to fix?

[jimdrechsler]

OK after going to advance auto twice he finally figured ou how to run the codes. IT SAYS

KOEO code 11
system pass code
no faults detected

memory code 33
egr valve
no flow detected (the guy said it was because it was cold- but the motor was actually still hot)

memory code 41
HO2S (sensor)
system lean
Bank 1




What does all this mean? Can i fix this my self? if so, how with step by step instructions for dumbasses like myself would be great. Also, last question- does it running like this affect my performace when driving? will i be quicker when it is fixed?

thanks-

jim

[jimdrechsler]

anyone?? i just spent 500 bones in getting the steering rack and bushings etc.. replaced! hope this isnt a lot to fix.

[Hethj7]

Well, I am by no means an expert here, but I would venture to guess that the code 41 may be caused by a bad O2 sensor.

Who was the "guy" that said your EGR code was caused by it being cold?

I am sure when people get back to work tomorrow you will get some more replies. On the weekends the site slows down and then when people get back to work, they have more time to post! LOL

[Capri306]

Well, the EGR code is NOT because of a cold engine. The guy who pulled your codes obviously does NOT know how powertrain control modules can actually store codes for later retrieval. The actual sequence probably looked like this:

11
11
*pause*
-1- (divider code)
*pause*
33
41
33
41

The first "11" means that as the system is sitting there, there aren't any problems with the sensors or actuators. Everything checks out okay under static conditions. Good start.

The next series of codes were tripped sometime within the last ~50 times the engine was running. These codes are stored until the problem clears up or is repaired, and then the EEC-IV is sort of like, "oh, nevermind," if it's fixed or goes away.

A code 33 (if it's for EGR, I'm not sure, as I don't have my chart handy) means that the computer has seen insufficient EGR flow during operating conditions. This could mean a few things could be wrong, but I'll point them out in the order I'd check them:

1. A leaking (more than likely cracked) vacuum hose somewhere between the vacuum tree on the firewall and the EGR valve. Remember this includes the lines going to the EGR regulator that's on the firewall side of the passenger side strut tower. Those plastic lines get brittle with age, and this is very common for them to crack. Check the entire length of each line, and also their branches!

2. The EGR position sensor could also be crapping out, also common on older EEC-IV controlled vehicles. It's the white plastic thingy bolted onto the back of the EGR valve with three nuts. You may want to remove it anyway and be SURE the silicone seal is still intact. That seal is the only thing that keeps vacuum in there, so if it's leaking at all, the valve will not open ever.

3. The EGR valve could just plain be stuck shut from carbon buildup. Just remove the valve by the two bolts holding it onto the EGR spacer (they are two different size nuts, 1/2" and 9/16" I think, so the valve can only go on one way), get a new EGR gasket (about $0.99) and a can of carburetor cleaner (NOT THE FUEL INJECTION STUFF!!! It just doesn't eat grime off like carb cleaner), and spray the pintle valve as you move it in and out. The passages should also be cleaned, but then you already knew that.

Okay, on to the next code...just replace both oxygen sensors if it hasn't been done in the past 30,000 or so. Be sure to remove the battery cable (take your pick) when you do this so the computer's keep-alive memory is erased. This way you can a) get better gas mileage, b) have more power because the computer will be able to better calculate the a/f ratio and other parameters, and c) so you know the computer or sensors aren't full of horse-pookey.

You know, there is a slight possibility that you could be getting BOTH codes from a SINGLE vacuum leak. That leak could be preventing the EGR valve from opening, AND be leaning out the mixture on the one bank. Sounds nuts, but I've seen it happen. Good luck to ya.

[jimdrechsler]

mmm thanks for the info. so this could effect my mpg as i am seeing about 12.7 last tank! i pulled plug #5 i think (first one on driver side) and it was pretty white. is driving it right now make it any worse or not a huge deal? I hear detonation (i think) when going slow and give it slight gas. if i down shift and give it gas, i dont hear it then. strange. what side is bank #1 for the o2 sensor? thanks for replies!

jim

dont have much money left to put in this baby as u am moving soon!

[bigred90gt]

If its white, you're runnin lean and nneed to fix it before any substaintial damage occurs. Man, you should have done the steering rack and bushings yourself. Its not that complicated, and it for damn sure would have saved you alot of money.

[jimdrechsler]

i hope i didnt cause damage already. i actually had to pay on ly 165 labor for many things including: replacing rack, lower control arm bushings, sway bar linksand bushings, outer end, turned the front rotors, adjusted rear brakes, changed axle and tranny oil, fixed my relay circuit for fan and added a relay. the parts alone were 273!! that isnt that bad for labor is it???


i bought 2 o2 sensors and an egr valve gasket for 86 bones. do my o2 sensors have "a wire connection"? I said they did. i guess there are 2 different kind of sensors.

im bringing it this friday to a guy who has owned a mustang and is building one now. shouold be able to help out a lot.

jim

[bigred90gt]

Actually $165 for labor is a great deal on all that was done. Labor usually makes up abotu 80% of your repair bill.

All o2 sensors connect with a wire. Certain years (I cant remember what years) have 2 wires and others have 3 (or is it 3 and 4, I cant remember). The one with the extra wire is (I think) because they have a built in heater to assist in bringing the sensor up to operating temp. You jut need to look at the plug and see how many wires there are.

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by Capri306
Be sure to remove the battery cable (take your pick) when you do this so the computer's keep-alive memory is erased.

Just to throw in two more cents, I would never disconnect the battery's positive cable as a method of resetting the ECM, or anything else. You should always disconnect the negative cable. That completely takes the battery out of the circuit. As long as the negative cable is attached, the entire vehicle is still in the circuit (drop a wrench on the pos battery post and the vehicle and see what happens. ). Also, when ever you reset the ECM, you should make sure all the capacitors in the system are drained. This is easily done by turning the headlight switch on for a few seconds while the battery is disconnected.

[jimdrechsler]

well i just changed the 2 o2 sensors, checked the egr valve and set the tps to 1. the egr valve was actually fine, cleaned it out anyway though. the tps was higher than what it should be but is fine now at idle and WOT. I dorve it arouns for a while and the check engine lioght did NOT come on. so i am guessing it was the o2 sensors. however, I did NOT disconnect the neg battery terminal (forgot to). will this matter for gas mileage or anything? should i disconnect the cable for a few minutes now? thanks,

jim

PS side question. when checking the timing. it reads about 14 with the spout connector off. when it is on, it reads close to 20- is this normal? i know that when you change the timing, the connector should be off. OR should i have the spout connector off when checking and then turn the car off, THEN reconnect it? WTF i cannot remember from doing it last year!

jim

[PKRWUD]

Your timing sounds fine. You should always reset the ECM after changing any sensors so that it can adapt to the new range it will receive from the sensor.

[jimdrechsler]

how do i do this? just remove the negative cable?or unplug the palce where the codes are read from? thanks

jim

[PKRWUD]

1) disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) turn on the headlight switch for a few minutes (this drains the capacitors).
3) turn the switch off.
4) reconnect the negative battery cable.

After doing this, the ECM will need to "relearn" the engine, and the drivers style of driving, so take it for a ride around the block, and drive it the way you normally would.

[jimdrechsler]

thanks for quick reply, i will do that now!

jim