Hot Ground Wire|????????

Stang951 · 07-25-2004, 10:09 PM

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Should my ground terminal and cable get warm-hot when the car is running? If not what the hell would cause that?
__________________

LX5liter · 07-26-2004, 08:58 AM

The ground might get a little warm from the underhood heat, but it shouldn't get hot. Check the connections on your ground cable, you might have a loose or corroded end.

88fivepointoh · 07-26-2004, 01:26 PM

The ground wire shouldn't get hot, other than underhood temps. However, as i stated in previous posts, these cars have ground wire issues that cause random problems. the corrode from the inside out so it could look good, but yet be trashed internally. there pretty easy to replace if need be, and it could be getting hot from drawing more current from a now limited copper amount due to corrosion. let me know what you find.

Stang951 · 07-26-2004, 03:49 PM

Well the battery is in the trunk. Could it be that I need more ground than just from the body to the battery? Like adding a ground from the frame to the battery as well?

LX5liter · 07-26-2004, 04:42 PM

You should have a frame to battery and frame to engine ground cable/strap.

Stang951 · 07-26-2004, 04:47 PM

That will be my next step then. I have the cabel and ends to add one, but never got around to it. Since everything seemed to be doing fine!

crazypete · 07-27-2004, 09:29 AM

Every time I attached my trunk mounted battery ground to the frame, I had all kinds of grounding issues and starter problems and charging problems. I finally ran + and ground directly up front and grounded the battery straight to the engine. Then I ran an actual battery cable, not that useless strap thing, directly to the frame from the engine. That solved my problems decisively. If you are still having problems, try that instead.

Stang951 · 07-27-2004, 09:34 AM

Thanks for the tip Crazy. The only thing I was concerned with doint that is I was always taught to have the ground as short as possible. I have the short cables already for the way I originally designed the grounds. I'll try that first and then try your way.

I'm afraid it might take awhile though...time and money are my nemesis.

crazypete · 07-27-2004, 11:40 AM

It's because of interference. Here's how I made my own battery cable. I took 14 12 guage wires , stripped the ends and wound them together on both ends. Then I mummified the whole thing in electrical tape. Instant battery cable!
A lot cheaper than buying a spool of battery cable.

The reason for the short ground is long wire builds resistance and this lowers your outgoing and incoming charge. Makes the whole system less efficient.

07-25-2004, 10:09 PM	#1
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Hot Ground Wire\|???????? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Should my ground terminal and cable get warm-hot when the car is running? If not what the hell would cause that? __________________ __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

07-26-2004, 08:58 AM	#2
LX5liter dude5l Join Date: May 2001 Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada Posts: 603	The ground might get a little warm from the underhood heat, but it shouldn't get hot. Check the connections on your ground cable, you might have a loose or corroded end. __________________ Good luck! Brad R. 1992 L.X. 5.0 coupe MODS: A few little bolt ons New Best time ...11.60 @ 128 mph @ 2000+ ft altitude. Rice Haters Club member #39 Users rides #2542

07-26-2004, 03:49 PM	#4
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Well the battery is in the trunk. Could it be that I need more ground than just from the body to the battery? Like adding a ground from the frame to the battery as well? __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

07-26-2004, 04:42 PM	#5
LX5liter dude5l Join Date: May 2001 Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada Posts: 603	You should have a frame to battery and frame to engine ground cable/strap. __________________ Good luck! Brad R. 1992 L.X. 5.0 coupe MODS: A few little bolt ons New Best time ...11.60 @ 128 mph @ 2000+ ft altitude. Rice Haters Club member #39 Users rides #2542

07-26-2004, 04:47 PM	#6
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	That will be my next step then. I have the cabel and ends to add one, but never got around to it. Since everything seemed to be doing fine! __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

07-26-2004, 01:26 PM	#3
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	The ground wire shouldn't get hot, other than underhood temps. However, as i stated in previous posts, these cars have ground wire issues that cause random problems. the corrode from the inside out so it could look good, but yet be trashed internally. there pretty easy to replace if need be, and it could be getting hot from drawing more current from a now limited copper amount due to corrosion. let me know what you find.

07-27-2004, 09:29 AM	#7
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Every time I attached my trunk mounted battery ground to the frame, I had all kinds of grounding issues and starter problems and charging problems. I finally ran + and ground directly up front and grounded the battery straight to the engine. Then I ran an actual battery cable, not that useless strap thing, directly to the frame from the engine. That solved my problems decisively. If you are still having problems, try that instead. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

07-27-2004, 09:34 AM	#8
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Thanks for the tip Crazy. The only thing I was concerned with doint that is I was always taught to have the ground as short as possible. I have the short cables already for the way I originally designed the grounds. I'll try that first and then try your way. I'm afraid it might take awhile though...time and money are my nemesis. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

07-27-2004, 11:40 AM	#9
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	It's because of interference. Here's how I made my own battery cable. I took 14 12 guage wires , stripped the ends and wound them together on both ends. Then I mummified the whole thing in electrical tape. Instant battery cable! A lot cheaper than buying a spool of battery cable. The reason for the short ground is long wire builds resistance and this lowers your outgoing and incoming charge. Makes the whole system less efficient. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

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