Torque Converter and Performance?

Tincan18 · 08-24-2004, 02:23 AM

I have a 1994 Ford Mustang Gt. The Tranny has been rattling for a long time i took it into a mechanic and he said its my torque converter. It is pretty expensive to fix so i just was wondering, does having a bad torque conver, and i mean really bad converter. does this affect the performance of my car? If it signifcantly affects it i am definitly getting it replaced ASAP. If it is something that i can just get by with then it will be on my list just not at the top. What should i do? and how does it affect my performance if any? Thank You

crazypete · 08-24-2004, 11:27 AM

I wouldnt want to be around when that thing breaks open, thats for sure. Thats a pretty heavy piece, filled with a couple quarts of ATF spinning at engine speed.

If the converter is "bad" then I assume that the fluid coupling is going since that is pretty much the only thing a converter actually does. If the coupling is no longer efficient, expect atrocious milage and sluggish throttle response until it goes into 3rd and 4rth where it uses the lockup shaft.

How does a converter rattle anyway? It's 2 turbines and a small rotor looking thing in the middle (stator I think) sitting in fluid. If any of the pieces touched, you would hear a high pitched whine and it would sieze or completely stop working shortly thereafter from the debris of broken fins clogging it up and your car wouldnt move. Is there debris in you trans fluid? (Like metal flakes)

If your city milage is decent and it doesnt vibrate, whine or sound like it is going to physically fail, (and if you have AAA to tow it) then maybe you should just stick with the converter until it does actually fail or do the things I just mentioned. Maybe it is a benign problem. If its not hurting mileage or performance then maybe you should leave it alone...

...On the other hand you can get a streetable high stall converter for $350 or such from summit (TCI) and get it installed for another $300. Getting a high stall converter like a 3 or 4k (go 3k with mild motor) is a very effective performance upgrade for any automatic. For a more stock application, I have a perfectly functioning 2K stall (swapped out for my 3k stall) for an AOD sitting around that I would part with for $100 +shipping. Lemme know if you're interested.

88fivepointoh · 08-24-2004, 03:18 PM

I agree with what he is saying.. I however would replace the converter just for the fact of metal debris in the trans.. I have a 91 park ave then when my converter locks it sounds like a belt sander just was placed on the car and the locks up fine, and on the outside when it locks it sounds like bells or marbles. once it locks its fine.. annoys the hell out me, trans shifts great only 105K but i think it gets sluggish from time to time, and i was afraid of tranny failure but now i think its just a converter gone bad. if you open the window and take off i hear like a whine that seems to wind up as i go then eventualy goes away. I bet thats the converter.. I know this isn't a 5.0L question but what do u guys think? There also was flakes in the trans fluid which i have been changing every 3K...

Tincan18 · 08-26-2004, 03:04 AM

Thanks for the offer but i am not ready yet to replace it. My gas mileage is very very bad. I get around 10-12 mpg mabey sometimes worse and i am not even putting my foot into it. The throttle response is bad also. It does not vibrate when i am on the freeway or anything so i am definitly assuming it is the torque converter. Thank you for you help!

ponyexpress289 · 08-26-2004, 03:49 AM

im having the same problem with my car. its an 86gt AOD
where and what is a fluid coupling , how much is it to replace and is it easy?

thanks

crazypete · 08-26-2004, 09:15 AM

Ponyexpress:

The torque converter IS the fluid coupling. Of course, the exact same problem can be caused by an old AOD with worn clutches. The clutches grind down and then slip all the time, devastating performance and mileage at the same time. The only way to tell the two apart is that a bad converter will trash your city mileage and leave your highway milage the same but bad clutches will give you across the board terrible mileage. The guys at the local yard said that if you burn clutches long enough (like not hooking up your TV cable), the car will basically neutral all the time since nothing is able to transmit power to anything else. Rebuilding an AOD is easy enough but it is messy and that damn thing is HEAVY. I rebuilt an AOD on my first try never even having seen one before I bought a used one from a yard. It's just stacking things up and dealing with a few snaprings. Rebuild kit is less than $100.

Tincan:

Is your highway milage (or performance in 3rd/4rth) much better than 1rst/2nd and city mileage. That is a sign that it IS your TC. If it sucks all the way around, I would say it is the clutches in the transmission. Since it doesnt vibrate on the highway, I would say that it is most likely the TC since you have a direct connection bypassing the TC sorta in 3rd and totally in 4rth.

dirtyd0g · 09-13-2004, 12:16 AM

The rattling in the converter is due to loose fins. Average replacements for a AOD converter is about $150. The replacement cost for a 4r70w unit is about $200.
Thats is average cost for a stock replacement.
Alan

08-24-2004, 02:23 AM	#1
Tincan18 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 16	Torque Converter and Performance? I have a 1994 Ford Mustang Gt. The Tranny has been rattling for a long time i took it into a mechanic and he said its my torque converter. It is pretty expensive to fix so i just was wondering, does having a bad torque conver, and i mean really bad converter. does this affect the performance of my car? If it signifcantly affects it i am definitly getting it replaced ASAP. If it is something that i can just get by with then it will be on my list just not at the top. What should i do? and how does it affect my performance if any? Thank You __________________ Tincan18

08-24-2004, 11:27 AM	#2
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	I wouldnt want to be around when that thing breaks open, thats for sure. Thats a pretty heavy piece, filled with a couple quarts of ATF spinning at engine speed. If the converter is "bad" then I assume that the fluid coupling is going since that is pretty much the only thing a converter actually does. If the coupling is no longer efficient, expect atrocious milage and sluggish throttle response until it goes into 3rd and 4rth where it uses the lockup shaft. How does a converter rattle anyway? It's 2 turbines and a small rotor looking thing in the middle (stator I think) sitting in fluid. If any of the pieces touched, you would hear a high pitched whine and it would sieze or completely stop working shortly thereafter from the debris of broken fins clogging it up and your car wouldnt move. Is there debris in you trans fluid? (Like metal flakes) If your city milage is decent and it doesnt vibrate, whine or sound like it is going to physically fail, (and if you have AAA to tow it) then maybe you should just stick with the converter until it does actually fail or do the things I just mentioned. Maybe it is a benign problem. If its not hurting mileage or performance then maybe you should leave it alone... ...On the other hand you can get a streetable high stall converter for $350 or such from summit (TCI) and get it installed for another $300. Getting a high stall converter like a 3 or 4k (go 3k with mild motor) is a very effective performance upgrade for any automatic. For a more stock application, I have a perfectly functioning 2K stall (swapped out for my 3k stall) for an AOD sitting around that I would part with for $100 +shipping. Lemme know if you're interested. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

08-26-2004, 03:04 AM	#4
Tincan18 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 16	Thanks for the offer but i am not ready yet to replace it. My gas mileage is very very bad. I get around 10-12 mpg mabey sometimes worse and i am not even putting my foot into it. The throttle response is bad also. It does not vibrate when i am on the freeway or anything so i am definitly assuming it is the torque converter. Thank you for you help! __________________ Tincan18

08-26-2004, 03:49 AM	#5
ponyexpress289 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: rowlett Posts: 136	fluid coupling im having the same problem with my car. its an 86gt AOD where and what is a fluid coupling , how much is it to replace and is it easy? thanks __________________ er OK YAY! i Drive A 86gT with An aTrim!!!! HAHAHAHAHA

08-26-2004, 09:15 AM	#6
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Ponyexpress: The torque converter IS the fluid coupling. Of course, the exact same problem can be caused by an old AOD with worn clutches. The clutches grind down and then slip all the time, devastating performance and mileage at the same time. The only way to tell the two apart is that a bad converter will trash your city mileage and leave your highway milage the same but bad clutches will give you across the board terrible mileage. The guys at the local yard said that if you burn clutches long enough (like not hooking up your TV cable), the car will basically neutral all the time since nothing is able to transmit power to anything else. Rebuilding an AOD is easy enough but it is messy and that damn thing is HEAVY. I rebuilt an AOD on my first try never even having seen one before I bought a used one from a yard. It's just stacking things up and dealing with a few snaprings. Rebuild kit is less than $100. Tincan: Is your highway milage (or performance in 3rd/4rth) much better than 1rst/2nd and city mileage. That is a sign that it IS your TC. If it sucks all the way around, I would say it is the clutches in the transmission. Since it doesnt vibrate on the highway, I would say that it is most likely the TC since you have a direct connection bypassing the TC sorta in 3rd and totally in 4rth. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

08-24-2004, 03:18 PM	#3
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	I agree with what he is saying.. I however would replace the converter just for the fact of metal debris in the trans.. I have a 91 park ave then when my converter locks it sounds like a belt sander just was placed on the car and the locks up fine, and on the outside when it locks it sounds like bells or marbles. once it locks its fine.. annoys the hell out me, trans shifts great only 105K but i think it gets sluggish from time to time, and i was afraid of tranny failure but now i think its just a converter gone bad. if you open the window and take off i hear like a whine that seems to wind up as i go then eventualy goes away. I bet thats the converter.. I know this isn't a 5.0L question but what do u guys think? There also was flakes in the trans fluid which i have been changing every 3K...

09-13-2004, 12:16 AM	#7
dirtyd0g Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: cincinnati Posts: 30	The rattling in the converter is due to loose fins. Average replacements for a AOD converter is about $150. The replacement cost for a 4r70w unit is about $200. Thats is average cost for a stock replacement. Alan

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