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#1 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() My factory voltmeter in my '88GT is reading in the red zone.
Does this mean the alternator is bad since my battery is only a few months old?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#2 |
My poor 79 RIP
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Suisun City,
Posts: 2,320
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![]() usally yes.
Is the car running?
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'84 mustang GT turbo '85 LTD '89 Camaro Irocz z28 '94 Lightning '96 Trans am |
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#3 | |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() Quote:
with the engine off, i think the batt should measure around 12.5V. i picked up a 130amp from PaPerformance, lifetime warranty and charges great even w/ underdrive pullies, less whine too.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#4 | |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() Quote:
I'm going to have to get another battery/alt. tester cause I can't find mine.
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#5 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() Yeah, if it's got a bad diode it will drain your battery. Just check it with a multimeter, you don't have to have a special battery alt. tester.
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The sig says it all. ![]() |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 41
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![]() it else could be the regular 2 .
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#7 |
T.P.M. President
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brownsville
Posts: 265
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![]() Old trick here.
With the car running, disconnect one of the terminals from the battery. If it dies, its the alternator.
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#8 | |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() Quote:
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#9 |
T.P.M. President
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brownsville
Posts: 265
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![]() Nope. I just yank it off and take it to the local auto zone for that. Since I went with the 130 alt swap over a year ago, I haven't had a problem w/ battery or alternater. Not bad for a $30 junkyard alternator. I still remember the words out of the mouth of the Autozone tech I was talkiing to about the swap. He said "See you in a couple of weeks" This was over a year ago.
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#10 |
Sober voice of Reason
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Posts: 1,514
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![]() With the stock alternator, you'll probably have just over 13 volts at idle, at around 1500rpms, it should be over 14V. Another possibility is that the gauge has gone south.
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393W: AFR 205's, hydraulic roller, TKO600. |
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