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#1 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() Is there much gain in yout 60' times by relocating the battery to the truck?
I know it takes weight off the front end but will it make a noticable difference in my 60' times? I'm just debating if it's really worth it for a car that is also street driven?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#2 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() I moved mine! Haven't had a chance to run it yet, and I basically have all new running gear, so I won't be able to tell if there's a difference. I sure hope like hell there is, $4K in the new engine, $3K in the new tranny. It BETTER be faster! LOL
Don't think of it as moving 30 lbs. Think of it as moving 60 lbs. Taking 30 OFF the front, and ADDING 30 right above your axle. One other thing to keep in mind, if you have a hatch you'll need a sealed battery box. I use the blue Moroso one, works great. You'll also need a rear mounted disconnect, and wired properly so that your alternator doesn't keep the car running when you throw the kill switch. Is it worth it? Might be more of a pain on day-to-day type stuff, than the good things you'll get at the track.
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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#3 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() It's worth it to me just to get it out of the engine bay.
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The sig says it all. ![]() |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() I did move mine to the rear. As mentioned, you will need that sealed/vented box and the external battery disconnect switch if you intend to be legal (pass tech inspection) at NHRA tracks. I have the box but not the switch. My track inspector never even looks, so I do run at the track without the disconnect switch.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
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#5 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() Anyone have a wiring diagram on how to wire the switch properly?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() It''s just a large switch that interupts the positive battery cable. the switch is external on the rear panel somewhere. It's function is that someone can turn off all battery current (fuel pump, ignition, etc.) in case of an accident.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
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#7 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() Simple way to do it: All you gotta do is run the charging wire from the alternator, ALLLL the way back to the switch. It goes on the BATTERY side of the switch. That way if something happens, someone kills that switch, the alt can't keep the car running.
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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