Tremec TKO Clutch Fork

[procharge94]

I conducted a search and found what I beleive to be my answer, but would like to confirm. I have a '94 GT in which I am installing a TKO with the generic Tremec bellhousing. This requires the '87-93 clutch fork in order to align correctly as everything stands right now, BUT will I need a longer clutch fork when I upgrade to an SFI approved bellhousing(Lakewood, McLeod, etc)?

If a longer clutch fork is required for the steel bellhousing, I will simply purchase a stock replacement to use for the next couple of months. If the '87-93 style clutch will ALSO align properly in the steel bellhousing, I will go ahead and upgrade to a heavy duty fork. Either way, a new clutch fork is required in order to get the car back on the road.

Thanks,
Matt

[mustangII460]

Sorry I don't know the answer but this guy does.

Mike Forte

[Ackbar00]

Originally Posted by procharge94

I conducted a search and found what I beleive to be my answer, but would like to confirm. I have a '94 GT in which I am installing a TKO with the generic Tremec bellhousing. This requires the '87-93 clutch fork in order to align correctly as everything stands right now, BUT will I need a longer clutch fork when I upgrade to an SFI approved bellhousing(Lakewood, McLeod, etc)?

If a longer clutch fork is required for the steel bellhousing, I will simply purchase a stock replacement to use for the next couple of months. If the '87-93 style clutch will ALSO align properly in the steel bellhousing, I will go ahead and upgrade to a heavy duty fork. Either way, a new clutch fork is required in order to get the car back on the road.

Thanks,
Matt

Yes, you will need a longer fork. But let me tell you, those blowproofs suck ass to work around. I sold mine and put the "stocker" back on. Cant be happier.

[procharge94]

Ok, apparently I have gathered a shit-ton of WRONG information. Here is another little detail that I was misinformed about. The driveshaft input shaft has a total length of roughly 6.5". When installed in the car, the driveshaft input shaft sticks out of the TKO approximately 2.5". This leaves only 3.5" of driveshaft input shaft physically inside the transmission. Is this enough to safely drive the car? OR, should I play it safe and order a 1" spacer? I will ultimately be purchasing the driveshaft spacer, but I need the car to drive until the spacer arrives. Is this pushing my luck with damaging either the TKO or the driveshaft input shaft? The car will see no track time, nor will it be driven hard. Merely a few miles a day just to continue on with my week until the spacer arrives.

[~The Jester~]

Drive it, but don't beat it. You'll be just fine. They make that 1" driveshaft spacer for a reason bro.

You ARE aware that the output shaft splines on the TKO are different than a stocker, right? You'll need to change the end of that driveshaft. I mention this because it seems keeping the car driveable is vital to you. That kinda stuff can screw you.

If you don't already have the part, D&D Performance has them in stock for $70. http://www.ddperformance.com/ 248-735-6220 Call 'em up, ask for Paul. Tell him what you're up to, he'll fix you up with the right parts.

[procharge94]

Originally Posted by ~The Jester~

Drive it, but don't beat it. You'll be just fine. They make that 1" driveshaft spacer for a reason bro.

You ARE aware that the output shaft splines on the TKO are different than a stocker, right? You'll need to change the end of that driveshaft. I mention this because it seems keeping the car driveable is vital to you. That kinda stuff can screw you.

If you don't already have the part, D&D Performance has them in stock for $70. http://www.ddperformance.com/ 248-735-6220 Call 'em up, ask for Paul. Tell him what you're up to, he'll fix you up with the right parts.

Thanks. Yes, I am aware of the 31 spline yoke required in order to use my current driveshaft. I drove the car around the block today to make sure everything went smoothly with the install and learned that my stock SN95 clutch cable was not long enough to work with the shorter Fox clutch fork. Even after maxing out the firewall adjuster, clutch engagement was less than smooth. An adjustable cable is going in tomorrow. Has anybody had any luck with the adjustable types?

The car is my daily, although its not neccessarily always put together for me to drive. I do my best, but there are many weekends that I am up late Sunday night re-assembling the car so I will not have to use public transportation the next morning. This weekend is another one of those weekends. I am in the middle of an IRS swap and there are some parts that I will not be able to run down on a Sunday. I think...............though I'm not certain until I get the IRS under the car, that I will make up some of the difference in the driveshaft shortage with this swap. The reason I say this is because when we put the stock driveshaft back into the '03 Cobra who received my solid axle, his driveshaft was now portruding farther out of his transmission tailshaft. This would lead me to beleive that the pinion flange on the IRS is slightly closer to the transmission than a standard 8.8 solid axle.

Anyways, thanks for the help. As always, if I wait long enough (or just do it and find out for myself), I am able to find an answer to the many questions I have when destroying what used to be a civil daily driver.

Matt