Worth While Bolt Ons?

[BowTie Eater 5 Liter]

well, i need to figure out which bolt ons are worth it for my car, i want to be running mid 13's with just boltons,then will come the real mods(when i get the cash)

pulleys? yes? no? (ive got a little bit of a stereo in my car, and need the alt. to charge properly, do underdrives affect the charging that much?)
throttle body? is 65mm big eanough to handle a twun turbo or a head/cam/intake combo? only want to do this once and feel that 70mm will hurt performance at this point(is this correct?), but dont know if 65mm will handle what is planned.

what else can you suggest? not looking to spend a whole lot at this point, ive allready got exhaust(headers, x pipe, flows), 3.73's, shifter, removed air silencer, k&n(which means fawk all)

im going to get a set of stock heads and port them and maybe see if i can get a stock intake and cut it and port it, but i doubt ill do the intake. the stock valve seals are shot, and the springs are worn, so i need to at least take the heads off, but dont want to dig too deep into it.

[Ieatcamaros]

13's is easily achievable with what you listed. I don't think the 70mm throttle body will hurt you that bad at this point. The underdrives, can be costly if you're not careful. Especially since you have a stereo. I went through two alternators with the mac underdrive pullies. I am not knocking the underdrive pullies, cause I know a lot of people who have them with no problems. You would be alright without the stereo if you left the stock alternator pulley on there and don't let the car sit at idle for long periods of time. I take it you have an amp and subwoofers in your car. If this is the case, I'd switch to the 130 amp alternator from a 94-95 GT. The stock alternator is 75 amps and with a stock stereo and no underdrives, it just barely charges at idle. Take that for what it's worth. If you are going to port the heads yourself, I say go for it. If you are going to spend the money to pay someone else to do it, it is not worth it.

130 amp alternator upgrade

[Dark_5.0]

Pulley's are worth while. I suggest upgrading the alternator at the same time though.

I bought a 65mm TB and have always wished it was a 70mm.

[GhettoPop]

i have an a stereo and amp. i bought march 1000 underdrives from PA Performance along with a 130amp alternator. i think it was approx $300 total. PA Performance installed the underdrive pulley on their alternator and covers it under their lifetime warranty which i thought was cool. i have had no charging or cooling problems with the uinderdrives and i sit in NYC traffic all day long. i also changed by baattery cables and starter cable with some 4 gauge ones as i didnt want any weak links in the charging system.

march also makes a "power and amp" pulley set in which in which they provide a different size alternator pulley in order to turn the alternator faster than with regular underdrives. this might be a good option if you dont want to buy an alternator. IMO, buy the alternator, i've had mine for years and its one of the best investments i have made. with your stereo and lights on, especially a/c, your probally losing power at idle.

some more suggestions:
drag radials or slicks for the track
rear control arms
take off as much weight as possible

i know your trying to save money but i'm a big fan of suspension and weight reduction. good luck!

[BowTie Eater 5 Liter]

not really trying to save money, but i want to put the turbo on a "stock" motor to see how good it actually goes. suspension will not really be messed with, and no weight reduction(did the weight thing on my last car, not worth it imo for a daily driver, amd i need a suspension i can handle every day and on long road trips).

will the sn95 alternator be a direct bolt on? right now for my stereo ive got 3 5ferrit caps to try to keep the alternator from cooking and an optima

[Dark_5.0]

Originally Posted by BowTie Eater 5 Liter

not really trying to save money, but i want to put the turbo on a "stock" motor to see how good it actually goes. suspension will not really be messed with, and no weight reduction(did the weight thing on my last car, not worth it imo for a daily driver, amd i need a suspension i can handle every day and on long road trips).

will the sn95 alternator be a direct bolt on? right now for my stereo ive got 3 5ferrit caps to try to keep the alternator from cooking and an optima

The sn95 alternator is not a direct bolt on, there is some rewiring that needs to be done. Very good mod though.

[GhettoPop]

your wilkl have to use a different plug harness or tweo and shave off a little met for clearance issues with the 130amp alternator.

this might give u an idea of whats involved (very easy IMO)

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html

[Ackbar00]

1.Pullys
2.C&L 76mm MAF - I would get this before a T-body
3.75mm T-body - It is not going to hurt anything, buy it once, buy it big.
4.A Intake. Dont care which one. Anything is better than stock. If you can weld, Ill sell you my Performer cheap :
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=668640

With Drag Radial, this was mid to low 13's on my full weight GT.