carb issues

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by PKRWUD

Just out of curiosity, do you have a vacuum advance on your Unilite?

I do have a Vacuum advance.
Going out to work on it now,
Ryan

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by rwhite65

I do have a Vacuum advance.
Going out to work on it now,
Ryan

Try disconnecting and plugging the line, and see if there is any difference with your new problem.

[rwhite65]

Ok, so here is what I have so far. The #6 header tube about 1 inch from where it leaves the head has a 1.5-2 inch long crack in it, basically right at a bend. Using my official tool (old heater core hose) I have determined this was my "tapping noise" I heard. Even without using the hose, I can still hear it if I listen closely. I also found my header bolts needed some tightening as well.

I use to be able to hear my mech fuel pump before all this happened. Now I am having a hard time hearing its pumping noise. I am half wondering if it is going bad on me, so I may need to put my new carter pump on it. I am trying to hold off til I get a fuel pressure gauge and regulator mounted in the line, which nobody around here has in stock.

Oddly enough, when I try to adjust the idle/air mixture screw, the driver's side will kill the engine if I take it all the way in (about 1.5 turns). The passenger side however, can be closed all the way in and barely if any effects the idle of the car. Ok, so now I know I have a blockage. I also found that if I shoot carb cleaner in the primary idle air bleed (inside the choke horn area) for the passenger side, it made the idle speed up a little. Shooting it in the driver's side one made the idle die down and stumble.

The timing is at 12 degrees, set with both the timing light and a Vacuum gauge. Setting the timing anywhere else right now and it doesn’t run worth a crap. I also noticed my idle is now up to about 1,000-1100 rpms. I tried to get it back down under that where it normally would be, but it just wants to die then.

I am going out to yank the carb, try to clean it out and get it back on before work tonight at 7.

What is everyone' opinion on the headers? They were on the car when I bought it (full length) when it had a c-4. When I put the AOD in it, I had to heat them up near the collector and "tweak" them so they would clear my AOD. I can’t find anyone that makes full length for this combo. Should I get another set and tweak them, or just get a good set of shorty's?

Ryan

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by rwhite65

Oddly enough, when I try to adjust the idle/air mixture screw, the driver's side will kill the engine if I take it all the way in (about 1.5 turns). The passenger side however, can be closed all the way in and barely if any effects the idle of the car. Ok, so now I know I have a blockage. I also found that if I shoot carb cleaner in the primary idle air bleed (inside the choke horn area) for the passenger side, it made the idle speed up a little. Shooting it in the driver's side one made the idle die down and stumble.

Okay, you are having the opposite problem as Brian is. He has a clogged idle air bleed, but you have a clog/restriction in the idle well, on the passenger side of the primary metering block. You want to remove the mixture screws, and spray Brakleen (green can) in the opening where the passenger side primary jet is. Compare it with the other side, and when they both spray out the same on the other side, you should be good.

Originally Posted by rwhite65

The timing is at 12 degrees, set with both the timing light and a Vacuum gauge. Setting the timing anywhere else right now and it doesn’t run worth a crap. I also noticed my idle is now up to about 1,000-1100 rpms. I tried to get it back down under that where it normally would be, but it just wants to die then.

Just to clarify, adjust the idle mixture and timing with a vacuum gauge, and then turn down the idle speed with the idle speed screw.

[rwhite65]

Ok, this has gotten so involved, have you told me how to adjust the idle mixture with the Vacuum gauge, because I am not remembering for sure on that one.

I took the bowl and front metering block off. Cleaned thoroughly, used new gaskets, and installed a fuel pressure gauge. I have a consistent 5.5- 6 lbs of pressure.

Notice two things in the picture. The idle speed screw is adjusted so much, my butterflies have exposed the transfer slot, which I have read is bad. Problem is I am not sure how to fix it. Also notice the 3 tears in that gasket. I have no idea what caused that.

Put it back together with a new carb/intake gasket....got my good exhaust note back. Now I just need to adjust the idle mixture screws properly...try to get the butterflies down, and test drive. I would have test drove tonight, but I got to get to work.

PKRWUD-
Plugging the Vacuum advance or its tube had no effect on it before I took the carb off and worked on it.
Thanks,
Ryan

[rwhite65]

Good News! IT drives so sweet now. I now have more Vacuum at idle, up 1" and there is no stumble thru any part of the power band. I have a slight hesitation off the line during hole shots, but it is really hard to tell now that I have some serious traction issues. I have no doubts it will be resloved also with help from Chris.

Looks like I need to try and get the trac loc working so I can make it to the fun day at the track on the 15th. I am also going to try and get the header welded up to get me thru the season, then I will get some new ones this winter. Any suggestions guys?
Ryan

[82 GT]

The gasket tear was most likely the cause for low vacuum. I don't remember but that book tells you how to adjust the transfer slot exposure. The bad news is that you will have to remove the carb again to do it.
Your trac-loc is going to HAVE to be removed and rebuilt for it to work again properly.
Unless you have time to remove it, order the rebuild kit and get it back together again, you will be cutting it close on making it to the track on the 15th.
Good to hear you have things sorted out though.

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

Your trac-loc is going to HAVE to be removed and rebuilt for it to work again properly.
Unless you have time to remove it, order the rebuild kit and get it back together again, you will be cutting it close on making it to the track on the 15th.
Good to hear you have things sorted out though.

Well, if the trac loc went south, the I am not too worried. I still have the 408w to run up there, and it is gonna put up way better numbers then mine anyhow.
Ryan

[Rev]

Glad to hear that it's running well now. I was pretty sure that it was something in the idle/tranition circuit of the carb. Ive had to do just what you did in the past (remove the metering block and blow out all the passages).

If you have to fix the limited slip, I can reccomend the Auburn Pro unit over the Traction-Lock. I was having to get my Traction-Lock rebuilt every year or so. The Auburn Pro has held up very well now for several years with lots of smoky hole shots. This is with the 8" rear end.

You might just want to get that crack in your header welded as a repair. If you do that youself, be careful not to burn a bigger hole in it with the welding rod. Those headers are pretty thin material. I welded one of my cracked Tri-Y's once but it was such an ugly repair that I did go ahead and replace them.

Rev

[rwhite65]

I think me and a buddy are gonna pull the header tonight and take it to a buddy who is a professional welder. He has done some amazing welding for me in the past.

As for the trac-loc....it is still working, just not like I am use to. Before I could not tell is was searching from wheel to wheel, almot felt like a locker. Now I can feel it actually searching back and forth.

Rev-
I sent you a pm
Ryan

[82 GT]

Ryan, I sent you a PM