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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() I finaly broke my stocker today so which one should I get?
Firewall adjuster or adjust at tranny is what it comes down to I guess. Which do you guys prefer? I got to buy it quick so help me out. BTW I've heard it's both easy and a PITA so what can I expect? Any tips? What is the easiest way to remove the locking pawl? |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cincinnati,OH
Posts: 1,511
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![]() I run a Maximum Motorsports quadrant and firewall adjuster with the factory cable. Works great! It's not hard to install, room under the dash is limited though. If you're a tall guy I'd recommend taking the drivers seat out.
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89GT,Pro-Bullet 306, H/C/I and a bunch of other stuff. *Sold* 00GT, Vortech S-Trim, Steeda Boost Pipe, C&L intake, Mac off-road H-pipe, Flowmasters, B&M Ripper shifter, Eibach Sportline springs, Koni Struts/shocks, MM full length subframe connectors, Cobra brakes, 3.73's. My Car Domain Page |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
|
![]() So I can buy the MM quadrant and adjuster and keep the cable I have?
That should save some $$
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#4 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cincinnati,OH
Posts: 1,511
|
![]() Quote:
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89GT,Pro-Bullet 306, H/C/I and a bunch of other stuff. *Sold* 00GT, Vortech S-Trim, Steeda Boost Pipe, C&L intake, Mac off-road H-pipe, Flowmasters, B&M Ripper shifter, Eibach Sportline springs, Koni Struts/shocks, MM full length subframe connectors, Cobra brakes, 3.73's. My Car Domain Page |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
|
![]() Ok stock one is off (pawl was easier than I thought),
Now which one do I buy? I'm thinging firewall because the rubber that meets the firewall on the $25 autozone cable is already torn basicly off and you pull off that whole assembly when using a FW adjuster, correct?
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
|
![]() Also, do you use the round tension spring(s) on the aftermarket quadrant, I hope not, can't see hooking it back around like it was.
Hopfully the new one will have bushings, or perhaps the cable holds it in place?
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#7 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cincinnati,OH
Posts: 1,511
|
![]() Quote:
Quote:
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89GT,Pro-Bullet 306, H/C/I and a bunch of other stuff. *Sold* 00GT, Vortech S-Trim, Steeda Boost Pipe, C&L intake, Mac off-road H-pipe, Flowmasters, B&M Ripper shifter, Eibach Sportline springs, Koni Struts/shocks, MM full length subframe connectors, Cobra brakes, 3.73's. My Car Domain Page |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Berwick,Pa
Posts: 127
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![]() my .02 is to replace the cable at the same time. i just did this same exact thing on my 89 2 weeks ago. the steeda double hook quadrant i used came with a bushing and 2 plastic washers. i put the bushing on the main shaft, and it stays in place. i liked having the adjustable cable and quadrant, along with the piece of mind in all new equipment. i can see where the firewall adjuster would be nice if you had a stretched stocker. how old is your cable? did you already buy the mm. cj's pony parts sells the steeda kid, with quad, cable and firewall adjuster for 110 i think. good luck, you got the hard part over with, that locking pawl is a RPITA.
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'89 GT hatch back performer rpm intake, performer rpm cylinder heads, fms e-303 cam, kirban adj fp regulator, holley 65mm tb, harland sharp 1.6 roller rockers, alum driveshaft, 3.73 gears (283 rwhp, 303 rwtq new numbers with new heads) |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() I got the Summit Kit that has a cable adjustable at the tranny and comes with a firewall adjuster so hopefully I'll be able to set it presicly.
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
|
![]() Also I'm sure you guys know that it's pretty easy to remove locking pawl from the engine bay through the firewall (it's right there) you just need someone to hold and position the pedal for you to work it off the shaft, might tey to put new one in tonight not sure yet.
Need to get to track and get some new numbers ![]() ![]() ![]()
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
|
![]() I finally got the Quadrant changed out, I got the summit kit with double hook Quad., f.w adjuster, cable that is adjustable at the tranny as well.
Well the firewall adjuster didn't look right, the flange that bolts to the firewall was between the two lock rings, the only way I see it could fit was to run the rings up the threads together (on the end you insert the cable, feed it through and bolt it to the firewall, is that right or even make sense? I have it all the way in up top, can't see any threads, full loose I'm guessing?And it's as loose as it can get at the tranny, I have the cable hooked to the top latch on Quad., wouldn't reach the lower one and the cable is pretty tight very little play in cable at trans. And the clutch engages within 1" to 1 1/2" of downward pedal travel. From a stop it doesn't engage until the pedal is almost at the top of it's travel and I'm use to it engaging about 2" from the floor. Will the cable stretch and allow me to set it up the way I want it or have I got that firewall adjuster in wrong?? __________________
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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