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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Austin, TX USA
Posts: 27
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![]() Ok guys, maybe my used 88GT has just had a hard life, but the cars chassis seems very flimsy. I have KB super subs on the car now and they helped a lot, but its still flexing. About once a month if I go up a steep driveway at an angle it'll pop my hatch open from flexing!
So, what else is there. Will a strut tower brace help much? Do they make bolt on rear shock tower braces that work with a fill interior in the car (ie, it just runs through the shock access panels). I like the car a lot (had it for about 1000 miles), but if I cant make it feel good to me I'm selling it. Jon Stock '88 GT 450hp '00 Camaro SS |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World
Posts: 871
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![]() you could get g-brace, strut tower brace, upper & lower control arms, thats all i can think of.
hope this helps p.s. dont sell your pony! ------------------ No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe (Sounds Mean), K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!). |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 83
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![]() Full Length subframe connecters that are welded into place work the best. I use the Maximum Motorsports Chassis setup. Go to WWW.Maximummotorsports.com
I have a 90 coupe that had a lot of hard miles on it, once I installed the subframe connectors, g-brace & strut-tower brace it made the car much stiffer and handle much better. ------------------ 89 (GR40 Griggs)LX 89 LX Coupe 90 LX Coupe |
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#4 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Novato, (SF Bay Area) CA
Posts: 20
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Posts: 1,526
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![]() A K-member brace would be nice also. Maximum Motorsports there too.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Austin, TX USA
Posts: 27
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![]() Ok, what is a G-brace? I have long tube headers so it looks like a K-member brace is outta the question.
![]() I'll be getting some maximum motorsport lower control arms soon, but thats more of a suspension piece rather than chassis stiffness. So there is no such thing as a rear shock tower brace? I think that would fix my hatch from popping open. Thanks for the replies guys. Jon |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Andover, KS
Posts: 330
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![]() Umm, thru the floor 2X3" subframes and a 12pt.
![]() ------------------ 93 yellow limited edition convertible Black top/interior, 5-spd 3.73's, H-pipe, pullies Best - 14.13 @ 96.5 on street tires 3650 lbs w/ me. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,349
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![]() G brace = k-member brace = lower chassis brace
You should try adjusting the hatch! Mine was way off... you could see where it was rubbing paint off. I could also tell that the body wasn't lined up properly when it was assembled... when it comes to mass production, Quality is really something like Job 69. Sounds like a roll bar would be a good idea. Maybe something like the KB, so it's not too intrusive. |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Dale City Va.
Posts: 516
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![]() All the aftermarket braces will help but remember it's a unibody car and FORD also used crap metal in the floors. Ever welded anything to it? Sucks burns right through! Best bet to make it as stiff as a rock is full subframes and a cage. Anything less and it will flex!
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Las Vegas, Nv.
Posts: 68
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![]() I have a strut tower brace and subs on for over 5 years I have found that the best stiffening parts I put on was jacking rails and a 4 point lower chassis brace. The jacking rails is a 3/4 square tube and a flat bar about 3/8 thick welded to the lower seam located under the rocker panels on each side of the factory seam. Those helped me a lot. I have a 91 GT and I remember that if I parked on a hump with a wheel on the hump the hatch would not close properly. After the jacking rails installed it was minimal twisting on the car. I would suggest that first. Of course a roll cage will help stiffen the car but jacking rails also help a lot. Just remember to have them welded on a flat surface (a wheel lift where all 4 wheels are on a pan) to keep the car flat like in a muffler shop.
Good Luck ------------------ See my mustang at prime-fe2.lvcm.com/sparkckr/pineapple.html |
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 40
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![]() Quote:
Rob Rob |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Austin, TX USA
Posts: 27
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![]() Guys, thanks again for the responses.
Where do jacking rails go? How are these different that the subframe connectors I already have? As for the hatch popping open, I'm gonna make sure the hatch is aligned properly. its always been hard to shut and hard to open so i'm thinking I just need to tweak it a bit. Maybe I should add the kenny brown matrix sub stuff as well before I go crazy with a 4 point roll bar. I'm gonna order a MM strut tower brace tomorrow..from my limited time on this board it seems MM is the place of choice for suspension/chassis stuff. Jon '88GT |
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