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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 396
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![]() I've seen alot of engine pics with clean fender wells. How do you go about routing the harnesses in the fenders? What other items (solenoid, etc) can be tucked away as well? Any other tips, tricks?
------------------ 86 GT, GT40P heads, Cobra cam, 1.7 RR's, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm Vortech, 24# injectors, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s. ************** Crane 2031 on order |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() It is a lot of work, and not something you should attempt if you have to ask this question in the first place. The answer is self explanatory, remove the wiring harness, and reroute in inside the fender wells, making holes for the wires to run into the engine compartment. If you dont have any wire splicing experience, dont try it.
------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 396
|
![]() I do have electrical experience (I'm an electrical engineer), however, not having done this before I am looking for some guidance. I'm sure many who have done this weren't born with the knowledge.
Specifically: Do you pull the harness back and feed it through the fender near the firewall? Do you leave the harness running along the firewall or do you find somewhere to tuck that away as well? Do you cut and splice (I would probably solder and shrink-wrap, but you get the point), and if so, what? Obviously you can't put some items behind the fender, but I'm sure the solenoid will fit. What else? I'm not looking for step by step instructions, but some guidelines would be nice. Thanks, Chris |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
|
![]() there is no "one way" to do this job. Obviously, you would jack the car, remove the front wheels, remove the inner fender wells, and just start rerouting the wires any way you can get it to work, and what ever looks good to you. Just dont be sloppy, use wire clamps, gromments, etc...you get the idea.
------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 149
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![]() It is some work, but it looks real clean when your finished so do not be discouraged from doing it even if you have not done it before. Doing something you have never done gives you experience and is an excellent way to grow and to learn, always try and even if you fail you will be far better prepared with a much greater chance for success. I would suggest doing one run first. Go with the mass air meter, and get rid of that convoluted tube that comes up and over the strut tower. Pull the fender, and the inner shell, and just take a look, it's really not that bad. It's something you have to sort of figure as you go but if your an E.E. it should be no issue. I am in the process of doing this and I have no experience at all.
Common sense counts for a lot. Good Luck. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
Posts: 1,850
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![]() I am in the process of doing mine. Remember one thing, the route inside the engine bay is shorter than around the outside of it. The only help I can give you is to say be patient, it gets fun.
![]() ------------------ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX - 12.17 @ 112 MPH! |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 396
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![]() Thanks for the feedback. Reading your replies and taking a close look at my fenders, it looks like it's something I can do a bit at a time.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: sandston, va.
Posts: 12
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![]() Try "Forced347" on the corral.net. He definitely has the best/cleanest engine bay i have ever seen.
------------------ 87GT Vortech S-trim,Aftercooler, 155intank pump, 24# injectors, 75mm pro-m, cobra intake, exhaust, 3.73's, mega bite jr's, Central coastal mustangs drag springs and some other freebies. |
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