Lakewood Traction...action lift bars

93SVTstang · 02-25-2001, 09:33 PM

Does anyone here run these control arms? If so, what are the pros and cons of these as compared to the SSM lift bars or the HPM mega-bite jrs? Besides the prices what would make one set any better than the other. Thanks

------------------
93 Cobra: MAC fenderwell mount cold air, BBK underdrive pulleys, 8mm plug wires, shorty headers, off road h-pipe, Borla Cat-back, centerforce clutch, hurst shifter, 3.55s, and 12* of timing

rtz · 02-25-2001, 09:37 PM

Also how prone are the torque boxes being damaged when running any kind of lift bars or traction bars?

Will it only happen when running slicks, or can it happen over time with street tires?

What's the best way to get those torque boxes strengthened?

dinomite · 02-25-2001, 10:03 PM

Yes, torque boxes. The MM&FF article got me thinking about that, and I would really like too know that too. With 400 hp and lots of suspension mods, do i need to mess with the torque boxes?

85muffstang · 02-26-2001, 01:38 AM

The SSM LCAs will trash your torque boxes with normal sreet tires. They are really only good for drag application. The problem is that they have a solid mount bushing, so it doesnt give when you turn or put any other kind of stress on it. The best things out now are the LCAs with the spherical bushings. They move around when you need them to, but still work excellent.
I installed SSM bars on my ex 95 cobra ( I didnt know any better), and they made it ride like a dump truck. I also had alot of noise from them. They worked great at pushing the tires into the pavement, but at a small price.
I would go with the newer style control arms that have a spherical or softer bushing.
It can get expensive to have your torque boxes fixed.
also with strengthening your torque boxes, you can do what they call , "box them in"
You weld a small plate across the bottom of the upper control arm box on the car. This strengthens it and keeps it from getting all fugged up.
------------------
85GT,auto/2400 stall,converted to carb.
edelbrock 600, performer RPM, BBK equal length headers, mallory distr. and ignit., h-pipe, flows, 3:73, converting to five lug and installing 95 cobra rims.

[This message has been edited by 85muffstang (edited 02-26-2001).]

02-26-2001, 07:21 AM

I originally bought a set of Southside traction bars,but sold them for 95$(never installed them) because I heard afterwards how they were prone to tearing out the torque boxes because of their solid bushings and how noisy they were on the street.

I'm now going with Lakewood Traction action Lift bars as I've talked with many people who have had SSM(Southside traction bars) and then replaced them with Lakewood Traction Action bars and got excellent 60' foot times without the annoying squeaks & rattles and having a polyurathane bushing ,which is alot more forgiving then the solid bushings..

------------------
Paxton Blown 87GT

Rick 91GT · 02-26-2001, 09:40 AM

Well although I have ripped my torque boxes twice, I love my SSM bars. The SSM bars are harder on the frame and torque boxes but they hook great with street and drag tires. I get under and shoot grease in mine every 2 weeks or so this keeps them from getting noisy. My car rides a little stiffer with the SSM bars but far from a dump truck

, and I am in the process of adding a cage so it will only be stiffer. As for the torque boxes, you should box them in using the bottom plates that were mentioned, the plate will only go over the front of the box so you still have access to the bar and it will still be able to move far enough. You should also install some re-enforcements, like the Wild Rides "battle boxes" or I make them out of stainless steel so they will never rust and are stronger. My design also added some extra support $125.00/pair. The re-enforcements add a lot of support to the box as they attach the top and side together this keep s the box from pulling away from the frame, you should also weld up as many seams as possibvle as the factory welds are weak. Do that for the uppers as well.

I had a friend who had the Lakewood bars and switched to a set of Mega-Bites and has never looked back. If you get the Lakewoods make sure you put plates on the floor pan so they do not put holes in them.
It really all depends on what you want. The Steeds arms are nice and they will give you the best of both worlds, my dad has them on his 93 Cobra, pull 1.7 60ft on ET STREETS and still corners like a road racer, they feature Poly bushings as well.

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

02-25-2001, 09:33 PM	#1
93SVTstang Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Metairie, LA, United States Posts: 80	Lakewood Traction...action lift bars Does anyone here run these control arms? If so, what are the pros and cons of these as compared to the SSM lift bars or the HPM mega-bite jrs? Besides the prices what would make one set any better than the other. Thanks ------------------ 93 Cobra: MAC fenderwell mount cold air, BBK underdrive pulleys, 8mm plug wires, shorty headers, off road h-pipe, Borla Cat-back, centerforce clutch, hurst shifter, 3.55s, and 12* of timing

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02-25-2001, 09:37 PM	#2
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	Also how prone are the torque boxes being damaged when running any kind of lift bars or traction bars? Will it only happen when running slicks, or can it happen over time with street tires? What's the best way to get those torque boxes strengthened?

02-25-2001, 10:03 PM	#3
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Yes, torque boxes. The MM&FF article got me thinking about that, and I would really like too know that too. With 400 hp and lots of suspension mods, do i need to mess with the torque boxes?

02-26-2001, 01:38 AM	#4
85muffstang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: garden city, mi, u.s.a Posts: 6	The SSM LCAs will trash your torque boxes with normal sreet tires. They are really only good for drag application. The problem is that they have a solid mount bushing, so it doesnt give when you turn or put any other kind of stress on it. The best things out now are the LCAs with the spherical bushings. They move around when you need them to, but still work excellent. I installed SSM bars on my ex 95 cobra ( I didnt know any better), and they made it ride like a dump truck. I also had alot of noise from them. They worked great at pushing the tires into the pavement, but at a small price. I would go with the newer style control arms that have a spherical or softer bushing. It can get expensive to have your torque boxes fixed. also with strengthening your torque boxes, you can do what they call , "box them in" You weld a small plate across the bottom of the upper control arm box on the car. This strengthens it and keeps it from getting all fugged up. ------------------ 85GT,auto/2400 stall,converted to carb. edelbrock 600, performer RPM, BBK equal length headers, mallory distr. and ignit., h-pipe, flows, 3:73, converting to five lug and installing 95 cobra rims. [This message has been edited by 85muffstang (edited 02-26-2001).]

02-26-2001, 07:21 AM	#5
Mustanguy Guest Posts: n/a	I originally bought a set of Southside traction bars,but sold them for 95$(never installed them) because I heard afterwards how they were prone to tearing out the torque boxes because of their solid bushings and how noisy they were on the street. I'm now going with Lakewood Traction action Lift bars as I've talked with many people who have had SSM(Southside traction bars) and then replaced them with Lakewood Traction Action bars and got excellent 60' foot times without the annoying squeaks & rattles and having a polyurathane bushing ,which is alot more forgiving then the solid bushings.. ------------------ Paxton Blown 87GT

02-26-2001, 09:40 AM	#6
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Well although I have ripped my torque boxes twice, I love my SSM bars. The SSM bars are harder on the frame and torque boxes but they hook great with street and drag tires. I get under and shoot grease in mine every 2 weeks or so this keeps them from getting noisy. My car rides a little stiffer with the SSM bars but far from a dump truck , and I am in the process of adding a cage so it will only be stiffer. As for the torque boxes, you should box them in using the bottom plates that were mentioned, the plate will only go over the front of the box so you still have access to the bar and it will still be able to move far enough. You should also install some re-enforcements, like the Wild Rides "battle boxes" or I make them out of stainless steel so they will never rust and are stronger. My design also added some extra support $125.00/pair. The re-enforcements add a lot of support to the box as they attach the top and side together this keep s the box from pulling away from the frame, you should also weld up as many seams as possibvle as the factory welds are weak. Do that for the uppers as well. I had a friend who had the Lakewood bars and switched to a set of Mega-Bites and has never looked back. If you get the Lakewoods make sure you put plates on the floor pan so they do not put holes in them. It really all depends on what you want. The Steeds arms are nice and they will give you the best of both worlds, my dad has them on his 93 Cobra, pull 1.7 60ft on ET STREETS and still corners like a road racer, they feature Poly bushings as well. ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98