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Old 12-22-2002, 10:00 PM   #21
88workcar
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All this info is killer, but for me, in my situation, what do yall think! This was never put up for a pissing contest. I will not do the costly experamenting. I really wanted an alum. flywheel. If I go auto, this will never happen. For me, in my present state WILL MY CAR GO QUICKER!!!!? Should I spend on an auto or not? I have no rules to follow, no weight breaks, nothing matters accept going to a better ET. Don't take me wrong, I'm not mad with all the discussion, its great, but should I spend the money?
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1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft
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Old 12-22-2002, 10:10 PM   #22
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The short skinny......clutch is more fun,auto is more consistant,in a nutshell,if you want to bracket race,get the auto and you will see your times more consistent.
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Old 12-22-2002, 10:19 PM   #23
88workcar
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12.503
12.504
12.512
is consistant. I am consistant. WITH A STANDARD. WILL IT GO FASTER WITH AN AUTO?
Try to F O C U S on the question fellas. MY CAR, ME, WILL I MAKE A BETTER ET?
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1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft
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To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.
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Old 12-22-2002, 10:22 PM   #24
ultraflo
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LOL! frustrated? I understand I'm also consistant with the Jerico DR4

Your car should go quicker/faster with the built AOD over your standard tranny (t5, right?), IMHO... IF you run the proper converter. You may want to consult Jeff Chambers or any shop that specializes in autos to see what the optimal stall speed is for your setup.

later,
Ryan
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Old 12-22-2002, 11:16 PM   #25
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My typical late $.02 an auto with the proper convertor for the cars power band will ALWAYS be quicker (lower et) becasue of the very nature of a torque convertor and how it multiplys torque goin to the tranny....That being said assuming you run to 10.50's the stick wil be faster (more MPH) because it take less HP to run. A good example is my street car runs 13.3's with the ocasional 13.2 and the best MPH i have ever had is 100.15 and i have only MPHed 100 one other time typically i am in the high 99's but How many stick cars on slicks without TDD (traction deficit disorder) run that quick with that low of a MPH. Where it sucks though is on the street from a roll i am running with the high 13 stick cars. which is a whole different class of cars while i can take out LS1's at the track from a 30 MPH role on the street the take me. My answer to your question would be no your car won't be faster but it would be quicker with the auto.

To add one more thing (in reply to ultraflow who i agree with) one more thing i would do is dyno your car with the t-5 in and send that info to a convertor manufacturer and you should get a spot on converrtor for your car.
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Old 12-23-2002, 01:37 AM   #26
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Yeah...im in the exact same situation you are with my street car. I went a 13.03 @ 103.2 with my c-4 3500 stall, and my dads street car is a 2001 trans am and he went a 13.15 @ 108 with a 6 speed. At the track I edge him out but on the street i cant hang. Im hoping after i get my AFR 165's on this weekend that will change. We'll see.
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Old 12-23-2002, 03:59 AM   #27
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I think I just read that JPT in Eaton Falls, Michigan has just announced a full roller, all aluminum C4 that weighs in at 60 pounds. 50 pounds less than a reg. C4. Still investigating, so no comments yet. Saw that "Moneymaker" on Mustangs and More had put some 100 passes on the box without a problem. The price quoted was $3300.00.

Ron
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Old 12-23-2002, 07:31 AM   #28
88workcar
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I completely understand that I will loose a mph or so. But the folks on this end say I will gain 2-5 tenths. I am not concerned with a roll on, on the street. I learned long ago, I only race my way. Full stop, then we race. Shaggy, we have a guy over here that runs 12.0 @ 100. Part of my original question is how? Is it because of the auto? His 60fts are not as good as mine, but his midrange is killer. This is a stepside brand X truck. I asked here because I just knew that somone had made the switch and was going to tell me, yea I picked up 3 tenths but lost 2 mph. I guess I was wrong. The best part is I can afford the auto right now with out selling the tremac. And if I don't like it I can get my money out of it because of the deal that I am getting.
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1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft
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To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.
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Old 12-23-2002, 12:28 PM   #29
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AOD's are underated in my opinion. With a stall, valvebody, 10-min tune up, and a couple of bolt ons. my car is a consistant 14.10 w/ 2.10 60 foot crowd pleaser. With d/r's i'm sure 13's are on the way
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Old 12-24-2002, 12:44 PM   #30
fast88
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I went from a built aod to a built c4 with the same 3000 stall speed and picked up 3 tenths .I figured it was the less weight of the c4 and the less rotational mass.I don't know exactly how much lighter my c4 is compared to the aod but i know it was alot easier getting that bad boy up in the hole lol.I have since changed from my previous 3.27's to a 3.73 and gained 3 more tenths so I would say it is depending on the converter stall speed and rear gear selection being matched to your combo as to whether or not you will see better times.
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Old 12-24-2002, 01:53 PM   #31
dragstang86
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Default Re: consider this

Quote:
Originally posted by fast88
I went from a built aod to a built c4 with the same 3000 stall speed and picked up 3 tenths .I figured it was the less weight of the c4 and the less rotational mass.I don't know exactly how much lighter my c4 is compared to the aod but i know it was alot easier getting that bad boy up in the hole lol.I have since changed from my previous 3.27's to a 3.73 and gained 3 more tenths so I would say it is depending on the converter stall speed and rear gear selection being matched to your combo as to whether or not you will see better times.
You have a similar set up as what i am going to have very soon. What are you running in the quarter?

thanks for the info
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90 LX Hatchback
306, AFR 165's 58cc, E303, 1.6 roller rockers, 70mm throttle body, cobra intake, bbk fenderwell, bbk longtubes, x-pipe, flowmasters, pullies, msd 6a, crane ps-92, stock MAF sensor, electric fan, No AC, No air pump, flaming river quick ratio rack


C-4, 3500 stall, 373's, aluminum driveshaft

SSM Lift bars, , sub frame connectors, strut tower brace


12.57 @105.12mph w/ 1.686 60ft before bbk longtubes (with equal shorties)
-----------------------------------------
86 tube chassis coupe - the trailor queen
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Old 12-24-2002, 02:23 PM   #32
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If you put an auto on your car right now the way it sits you will be slower. You wont get the 1.5 60fts you have been getting with the 5 speed.

After the supercharger the auto would make you faster cause the boost wouldnt drop between shifts

JMO,
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Old 12-24-2002, 02:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
You wont get the 1.5 60fts you have been getting with the 5 speed.
...what about with the ideal/proper stall converter coupled with a trans. brake?
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Old 12-24-2002, 03:09 PM   #34
88workcar
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This tranny has a trans brake, and a 3500 and a 5000 converter. If I don't buy it, do one of you want it?
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1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft
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To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.
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