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Old 09-04-2001, 10:58 PM   #21
SlowStang2
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Slipping

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)
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Old 09-04-2001, 11:04 PM   #22
Unit 5302
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Try to smooth slip the car out in 1st gear from about 2000rpms under maybe 1/2 throttle till full engagement. You should have enough gear to keep the car from bogging. As you begin to engage the clutch, give the car more gas till full engagement where you should be just about WOT. Keep the hammer down after that. If you burn them up, you need some traction enhancements.

What tires are you running?
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Old 09-05-2001, 08:12 AM   #23
ke4gde
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Cool

Slowstang,
don't pay too much attention to needing DR's. on street tires, with NO motor mods, stock injectors, only 3:55's in the rear, a short throw shifter, exhaust and a cold air induction kit i ran 14.5's in the quarter. just because its a vert doesn't mean crap. i heard it all the time from all my friends with coupes until we went to the track and i turned better times than they did. oh, also good call on gettign 3:55's i do highway driving alot and the 3:55's are good enough. especially if you plan on getting a power adder later. i have done some research and found out you can blow yourself out of your powerband alot easier with 3:73's and up. good luck and hope i helped a bit.
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Old 09-05-2001, 10:41 AM   #24
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You need a steeper cam in order to take advantage of those mods and better traction since your 60ft times could be better. Also, remove any unnecessary weight.

------------------
'93 GT Conv.
TFS Twisted Wedge Heads, Cobra Intake, Lunati Cam, 24lb inj.,Pro-M 80 mm MAF
13.24 @ 106.40 mph w/2.05sec/60ft
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Old 09-05-2001, 03:04 PM   #25
SlowStang2
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What a day its becomming today. I went to go get my subs welded on. When I go to leave the shop, I notice my battery light was on and the power sterring didnt work. Yep, you guess it, my belt has slipped completely off. When I called my other mechanic to find out what size it was he said "did you notice a few parts missing from your engine?" And I noticed the air pump was gone. Since the H-pipe is off road and the heads are set up differently, I dont need it anymore. Therefore, I needed a shorter belt. This new belt I got was maybe 1-2 cm shorter which makes me a little nervous. Should I be? Oh yea, since this air pump isnt there, doesnt that render me yet, MORE power?! If not less weight..

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)
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Old 09-05-2001, 05:42 PM   #26
moponys
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You should look into getting a custom JMS chip. I too have a 94 vert and the chip really woke my car up. I don't have any time slips yet but can say that it feels much responsive runs alot stronger.

It would probably benefit your car too.

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TFS twisted wedge heads, TFS street intake, Lunati cam .500/.510 218/226, BBK FPR, BBK shorties, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm, ASP pulleys, FMS 3:73, Transgo shiftkit,Flowmasters, Bassani x-pipe, K&N FIPK, FMS 1.6 roller rockers, 9mm wires,24lbs injectors,
190lph fuel pump, MSD cap and rotor, 18" wheels w/street tires, JMS custom chip, Trickflow phenolic spacer. ETs soon to come...
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Old 09-05-2001, 05:46 PM   #27
SlowStang2
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moponys, how much was it and what did you have to do to get it for your application?

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)
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Old 09-05-2001, 06:21 PM   #28
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Without the smog pump you really wont gain any noticable power, however, buy a short belt and bypass the powersteering (for the strip) and knock off 2 tenths, and gain about 1.5 mph, i know the belt size, but not sure if sn95's are the same as fox's on the belt.


Je4e, i dont know where your getting your info from, but grs over 3.73 will not "blow you out of the powerband" trust me, now i know of people that slowed before with 3.73's, but thats because they had to learn how to launch it, and when i get 4.10's, im sure traction will be much more of a problem, my granny 3.27's are bogging me out of the powerband, but having a cam really helps that powerband too, using steep grs

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Old 09-05-2001, 06:37 PM   #29
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i know this may be off the subject, but with all those mods you made on your car, it should be quicker. you may do what my friend did and say fug it, and get carbed'. so far it cost him less and he seems to get more out of the stock block that he did with a similar setup like yours. dont get me wrong, you can make alot of power either way, but the carb seem to flow a little better. the only con against carbed its throttle response as conpared to FI. hope you get the car figured out! i know how you feel.
p.s. there is a saying that i was told and it works very well: K.I.S.S. somebody told me that and it seemed to work. good luck!

------------------------
90 LX Black on Black
Flowbabies, h-pipe, Mac unequal shorties, Hurst, 3.55's. lowered, K&N, subframes, MSD coil
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Old 09-05-2001, 06:49 PM   #30
Unit 5302
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Let's focus on some numbers, shall we?

97mph trap with a 2.31 60ft. You've got the power to pick up 6 tenths with a good launch.

Pulling off a 2.0 60ft would get you into the 13's right now. You found a way to run a 98-99mph real trap on the Gtech. That is plenty to get your vert into the 13's with a good launch. If you've got traction issues adding power won't help you as much as you think. What wheels do you have right now? How wide are they?
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Old 09-06-2001, 10:58 AM   #31
SlowStang2
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Unit, wheels at 17x9 chrome Cobra-Rs packing 275-40-17 Kumhos. I had subs and a brace put on and have yet to mess with the car due to rain. AND, youll love this, I gunned it 2nd gear last night to the redline(since i reinstalled injs and mass air) and I get pulled over buy a crybaby co.ck err i mean cop. I got a $148 hit in the a$$ by him. All for going 5 min down the road to get a pizza that I ordered. So that all in itself has slowed the possibility to get ANY other mods. As far as launching w/out the slipping clutch routine, I havent been able to work on it too much because I am not sure if it ruins the clutch. (right foot on brake and gas while left foot is letting out the clutch until it grabs..then hold until you want to go)..THIS would be something I need to work on most definetly.

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.
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Old 09-06-2001, 07:28 PM   #32
Unit 5302
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Dude, that bites. How did you get a ticket that high? You could have only been going 63mph or so at redline, and we already think your tach reads high. Meaning at redline, you were probably doing more like 55mph.

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Old 09-06-2001, 09:30 PM   #33
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Not that this is the forum for this, but if you were speeding and the officer caught you and wrote you a ticket, what makes him a ****(fill in your own ignorant term for police officers)?

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pulleys; Flowmaster cat-back; 65mm TB; Cobra R's, front, and wing; FMS aluminum driveshaft
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Old 09-07-2001, 04:25 PM   #34
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OK, let's see here. I'd be able to really give you my advise on your car with track numbers that include everything from 60, 330, 1/8th, 1000, 1/4 etc. And as for lossing just 3 tenths from traction- its a lot more than that. For example, with an intake, 65mm T-body, headers, offroad x pipe, mufflers, 3.73's, and pulleys, I was running 14.3 at 96.5mph on street tires. This was with 2.08 60's on 245-50-16 H rated kelly tires. This was accomplished with a 2500rpm launch with clutch slippage to negate wheel spin. With the nitto DR's, I cut my 60's to 1.91's, and hence dropped 5 tenths from my ET and gained 2mph! I went to 13.83 at 98.55mph. With the DR's I was able to launch it hard and get my heavy a$$ moving. When I first hit the strip with my new setup I ran 13.5 at 103.Xmph. With timing and fuel pressure tuning I got it to 13.2 at 105.X. With the EEC-Tuner I have now run a 12.92 at 106.85mph. I shift at 6000rpm's on the stock tach, though with the stock cam I might shift at 5500-5800 if I were you. Your setup seems solid enough to get you into the 13's. JFYI- my car weighs 3690 in race form with me in it, and stock, I G-Tech'd it at a 15.1 at 93mph, it actually ran 15.2 at 90 at the track stock.

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1995 NA GT CONVERTIBLE
BEST ET: 12.92
BEST MPH: 106.85
AFR's, FTI cam, edelbrock intake, EEC TUNER and lots more.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary

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Old 09-07-2001, 06:07 PM   #35
mustanger82
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Lightbulb

OK listen to me you need slicks man
I dont care if other people have run 13 on radials if you have too much power your gonna ruin your 60ft time and any racer will agree that that is your back bone if you had a bit less power you prolly wouldnt spin so much and you could pull off a a better 60 and in the end a better 1/4 getting drag radials would fix all your problems my buddies STOCK 5.0 ran a 13.77 on drag radials and at best a 14.7 on radials so its in the tires
anywho thats my 2 cents
Sean
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Old 09-08-2001, 12:16 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by SlowStang2:
OK I looked up Killcanary's setup and hes running 12.9s now. He has DRs, custom cam, EEC tuner, and 4.10 gears. These are the only mods I can see that would bring noticeable changes. I am not sure if my 14.5 would drop a second and a half just from compying these though. The reason I am so resistant to getting other parts is just that. I have dropped a lot of money into this car and now I have to drop more money into my car just to wake up the other well paid parts? Well I already did that. Rule number one was get new heads, anything is better than stock, you MUST get new heads! Well here I am and I am a dissatisfied customer.

What you just said here is exactly why I stayed with the factory heads as long as I did. At my local track, 90% of 94-95 GT "COUPES" with heads, cam, intake, were only turning 101-103mph, and I figured if they were only running this, then I'd be a good 2-3mph slower than them, which only put me a little ahead of the 98.5mph I was turning with the stock parts. To me, 2-3mph wasn't worth $2000+. This of coarse changed when I saw the new AFR heads and the numbers they produced, though I still wasn't sold on the idea. What made me do it was taking a look at FTI's website and speaking with Ed Curtis. http://www.flowtechinduction.com
The numbers his naturally aspirated cars were making were unbelievable, most were at or over 300HP at the rear wheels. THIS is what made me go forth and buy the parts. I told him I wanted to trap at least 105mph, and seeing how I've gone almost 107mph in my nearly 3700lb car- it was worth it! BUT, I do admit I have made over 300 passes at the track and I believe I can get darn close to the best my car is capable of. The track is like a science, good times only come when everything is right. If you mess up one little thing, the run will be shot and the times will suffer. Get your 60's down to the 2.0-1.9 range and there's no question that you'll be in the 13's.

P.S.- so far the EEC-Tuner has bested my previous best time and mph by 3 tenths and 1.85mph, and that's with just changing the tip in, timing retard, fan settings, and WOT voltage. If you decide to add a cam, you'll probably have idle problems, and this can cure that as well. I now have my idle set at 850rpm's and it doesn't surge at all now. Check out shiftmaster's website: http://www.eec-tuner.com



------------------
1995 NA GT CONVERTIBLE
BEST ET: 12.92
BEST MPH: 106.85
AFR's, FTI cam, edelbrock intake, EEC TUNER and lots more.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary

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Old 09-08-2001, 12:23 AM   #37
SlowStang2
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Todd, since you are keepiong score at home I called the officer a co.ck. Why? Well maybe because he gave me a ticket due to the sound of my exhaust and used a speeding implication to justify it. It said I was going 64..which was about right only problem was when he "clocked" me I was at 34MPH. How do I know that? Well I know that from the point of this topic. My car isnt goingto jump that high that fast. By the time I got to 60MPH he was turning around. So, what, he kept the gun on me with one hand while turning the car with the other from 1/2 mile away. No. He heard my car from when he passed me, turned around, noticed the distance I had from the time he he first saw me until he turned around, and, in conclusion wrote me a bogus ticket. Resulting in yet, another life saving cop doing his honorable job well by keeping people with heavy feet off the road!
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