Clutch Questions - Page 2

Rosco · 04-18-2002, 10:18 AM

Well see...that's just it..it is adjustable, but the cable is already self adjusting so there's not really a need for it. I can get a HD one with a clutch fork for like $70. Hmmm...wait a second....ok...is the throw-out bearing also known as the pilot bearing? Heh, i'm sorta confused now..I was looking at some website for some prices and they had a list of stuff you should change when you install a new clutch.....And one of the things was a Pilot Bearing.. Any ideas?

zepherman · 04-18-2002, 12:11 PM

The pilot and throwout bearings are two different things. the pilot bearing is pressed into the end of the crankshaft and the throwout bearing slides on the input shaft when you push the clutch to disengage the clutch. You WILL need to have both replaced. You SHOULD replace your quadrant and cable with new ones. the stock plastic quadrant and pawl have a nasty habbit of breaking and so does the stock cable. summit sells an aluminum quadrant and an adjustable cable together for under 100$. Replacing these parts will save you a headache in the long run. I dont know why the shop that does your clutch shouldnt get the bearings for you. They are avalible at most auto parts stores.
I wish you lived in Oklahoma i would do it for you for 100$ + parts.

Rosco · 04-18-2002, 02:20 PM

Yeah, I wish I lived down there so you could do it for $100 too

well in the Clutch Kit i'm going to buy it comes with the throw-out bearing, not the pilot bearing. Thats why I was just wondering about the pilot bearing itself. Well that said and Done I best get going so I can order those parts and get everything replaced asap.

Hey, you should take a trip up to NY and you could do the work up here for me

umm...I'd give ya an extra $50 for the small drive up

Rosco · 04-18-2002, 02:34 PM

Alright...I'm looking in Summit and there's 2 different clutch kits. One's the King kobra and the other is just a HD one. But there is a difference between these two, although it says they both fit my '91. Look between the stars.....

Ford: 4.6L, 5.0L Mustang, 10 1/2 in. disc, **1 1/6 in. input shaft x 10 spline**, heavy duty clutch kit

Ford: 1979-98 4.6L (SOHC and DOHC), 5.0L Mustang, with 10 1/2 in. disc, **1 1/16 in. input shaft x 10 spline**, heavy duty King Cobra clutch kit

Ok..is that just a typo? Or what's the difference between the 1 1/6in and the 1/16 input shaft? Please hurry! I need to order this before 6pm

zepherman · 04-18-2002, 03:50 PM

this is so that they can give you the correct throwout bearing. you need to find out which size you need. talk to the tech guys at summit, or a ford dealership or maybe a performance shop. I think the dealership should know.

Rosco · 04-18-2002, 07:48 PM

Well in those kits from summit, I am assuming that the right throw-out bearing comes with the kit? because there is a throw-out bearing that does come with it. So it should be the right size correct? I mean, the information says that both clutches fit the 87-93 5.0's. So that input shaft thing just determines what throw-out bearing you need, or is there something else to it?

explicitone · 04-18-2002, 08:49 PM

I had the bbk cable and quad and it broke in less then 5k miles and I have the frpp and it has been great no probs at all and my clutch is the ford racing hd and it has 12k of beating and still holds strong as when new.

jimberg · 04-18-2002, 09:01 PM

As far as rapid clutch wear goes, I had the same problem with a king cobra clutch. If you don't adjust your clutch correctly and you have your cable just a bit too tight, it will start to slip at times when you don't really notice it. A clutch doesn't really wear out when it is fully engaged or disengaged. It wears when it's allowed to slip. You really need to get under the car to see if your cable is properly adjusted. When it is, you should have about 1/4" of play in the clutch fork when you move it back and forth. If you don't have that play, your clutch will slip. If you have more than that, you'll probably have shifting problems. Another thing to remember is that as the clutch wears out, you need to loosen the cable to maintain that play.

I have about 50k on my CF dual friction clutch and only needed to adjust it once. It does not slip.

04-18-2002, 10:18 AM	#21
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Well see...that's just it..it is adjustable, but the cable is already self adjusting so there's not really a need for it. I can get a HD one with a clutch fork for like $70. Hmmm...wait a second....ok...is the throw-out bearing also known as the pilot bearing? Heh, i'm sorta confused now..I was looking at some website for some prices and they had a list of stuff you should change when you install a new clutch.....And one of the things was a Pilot Bearing.. Any ideas? __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-18-2002, 12:11 PM	#22
zepherman Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Oklahoma City OK USA Posts: 236	The pilot and throwout bearings are two different things. the pilot bearing is pressed into the end of the crankshaft and the throwout bearing slides on the input shaft when you push the clutch to disengage the clutch. You WILL need to have both replaced. You SHOULD replace your quadrant and cable with new ones. the stock plastic quadrant and pawl have a nasty habbit of breaking and so does the stock cable. summit sells an aluminum quadrant and an adjustable cable together for under 100$. Replacing these parts will save you a headache in the long run. I dont know why the shop that does your clutch shouldnt get the bearings for you. They are avalible at most auto parts stores. I wish you lived in Oklahoma i would do it for you for 100$ + parts. __________________ 90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108

04-18-2002, 02:20 PM	#23
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Yeah, I wish I lived down there so you could do it for $100 too well in the Clutch Kit i'm going to buy it comes with the throw-out bearing, not the pilot bearing. Thats why I was just wondering about the pilot bearing itself. Well that said and Done I best get going so I can order those parts and get everything replaced asap. Hey, you should take a trip up to NY and you could do the work up here for me umm...I'd give ya an extra $50 for the small drive up __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-18-2002, 02:34 PM	#24
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Need answer ASAP before I order!! I need to order before 6pm!! Alright...I'm looking in Summit and there's 2 different clutch kits. One's the King kobra and the other is just a HD one. But there is a difference between these two, although it says they both fit my '91. Look between the stars..... Ford: 4.6L, 5.0L Mustang, 10 1/2 in. disc, 1 1/6 in. input shaft x 10 spline, heavy duty clutch kit Ford: 1979-98 4.6L (SOHC and DOHC), 5.0L Mustang, with 10 1/2 in. disc, 1 1/16 in. input shaft x 10 spline, heavy duty King Cobra clutch kit Ok..is that just a typo? Or what's the difference between the 1 1/6in and the 1/16 input shaft? Please hurry! I need to order this before 6pm __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-18-2002, 03:50 PM	#25
zepherman Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Oklahoma City OK USA Posts: 236	this is so that they can give you the correct throwout bearing. you need to find out which size you need. talk to the tech guys at summit, or a ford dealership or maybe a performance shop. I think the dealership should know. __________________ 90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108

04-18-2002, 07:48 PM	#26
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Well in those kits from summit, I am assuming that the right throw-out bearing comes with the kit? because there is a throw-out bearing that does come with it. So it should be the right size correct? I mean, the information says that both clutches fit the 87-93 5.0's. So that input shaft thing just determines what throw-out bearing you need, or is there something else to it? __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-18-2002, 08:49 PM	#27
explicitone Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: racine ,wi Posts: 691	I had the bbk cable and quad and it broke in less then 5k miles and I have the frpp and it has been great no probs at all and my clutch is the ford racing hd and it has 12k of beating and still holds strong as when new.

04-18-2002, 09:01 PM	#28
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	As far as rapid clutch wear goes, I had the same problem with a king cobra clutch. If you don't adjust your clutch correctly and you have your cable just a bit too tight, it will start to slip at times when you don't really notice it. A clutch doesn't really wear out when it is fully engaged or disengaged. It wears when it's allowed to slip. You really need to get under the car to see if your cable is properly adjusted. When it is, you should have about 1/4" of play in the clutch fork when you move it back and forth. If you don't have that play, your clutch will slip. If you have more than that, you'll probably have shifting problems. Another thing to remember is that as the clutch wears out, you need to loosen the cable to maintain that play. I have about 50k on my CF dual friction clutch and only needed to adjust it once. It does not slip. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

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