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10-06-2002, 07:12 PM | #21 |
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1.7's...
Funny you should ask...
I have also been runnning 1.7's... Pro's...It does give more lift, thus a tad more power Con's...rocker/guide plate wear is SIGNIFICANTLY increased. Translation...you will be looking at valve guide overhaul/replacement no later than 50k miles(recommended of course)...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
10-06-2002, 07:31 PM | #22 |
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Location: West Bloomfield, MI
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alright so i will get 1.6 rockers i guess... as for the b-cam you have, would you want to sell it? let me know abeer1220@hotmail.com
thanks, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-06-2002, 07:40 PM | #23 |
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Location: va
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Now that you have made your decision on the "B" I had to tell you my experience with the "E". I went with the "E" because it has 0 overlap. Since I am running a Vortec it made sense. I have had it for 5yrs and could'nt be more pleased. It blows the NJ emmissions away and will yeild 22mpg hwy and 18 city. It idles great' sounds even better and pulls all the way to 6500 or more. If you use the "b" with 1.7 rr you will yield about the same lift as the "E" with 1.6rr and have a litter wilder duration. Just my thoughts.
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10-06-2002, 10:09 PM | #24 |
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now this is where im lost. what does overlap do to performance? please let me know. i havent bought the B cam yet....
thanks, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-07-2002, 05:07 PM | #25 |
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Location: va
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Overlap means that both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. If a cam has overlap it means that it will develop power in a higher rpm range depending upon how much the overlap is. The overlap for the "B" is less than 4 degrees whereas the "e" is 0. The more the overlap the more power in a higher rpm range and the less streetability.
If you can get a copy of October 1999 issue of 5.0 mag. there is a great article on page 69. |
10-07-2002, 07:42 PM | #26 |
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cam selection
I'd stick with your 1.7s & get the B-303. I really don't think that the rocker/guide plate wear would be significantly worse. I wouldn't shell out the extra $$ for 1.6s. I know many stang owners running the B cam w/ 1.7s and have had no problems, even after 50,000 miles. My motor has ran like a champ since the rebuild...but then again I only have about 18,000 on the new motor and haven't checked for any where.
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10-07-2002, 08:10 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Madelia,MN USA
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B-cam good choice
I had a B-cam in my 90gt raced it a lot. I had no problems with Idle/driveability. Ford makes simple dependable cams that work well to make good power. There maybe different cams out there that make more power per combo but I think the ford cams accept alot of different combo's and work well with them all. The B-cam had a rough Idle and in my car made most of it's power 3,500+. I have read alot of posts on this site were people had surgeing idles with the E-cam but I think that was mostly due to speed density in the older mustangs. You will sure notice the power difference over the stock cam.
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331 stroker, JE 8.5:1 pistons, H-beam rods, steel crank, main cap, msd with 3step, BBK ceramic long tubes,TKO, 4.30's, motorsport Z303, Victor Jr aluminum heads, crane gold 1.6, southside lift bars, 90/10 front, 50/50 rear, centerforce dual friction clutch, Vortech S-trim soon. |
10-08-2002, 09:42 AM | #28 |
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ok guys, im torn yet again...
my new option (tell me if its a good one) is to go with the TFS stage 1 cam. its like the same thing at the crower 15512 cam. and a friend has the crower and loves it! the stage 1 cam is only like $140. it is a little more aggressive than the B-303... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=22522 let me know what you think of this cam. thanks a lot guys for all your help. take care, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-08-2002, 05:47 PM | #29 |
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
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TFS stage 1...
Are your pistons notched?
I have to check on the lift of the stage 1....maybe it is not that much... ah 221/225 .499"/.510" w/ 1.6's B303 224/224 .480"/.480" w/1.6's As long as you have a stage 1 w/ 1.6's your okay with TFS heads but 1.7's will be too much duration and lift The b303 w/ 1.7's will yield 234/234 .510"/.510" I think that is right. I dig my "b" and 1.7's... Why would anybody drive anything but a convertible?
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
10-08-2002, 07:53 PM | #30 |
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thanks for the info. i have notched pistons (stock) and im using GT-40 heads not TFS.
which cam would you think is better? either with 1.7's or not? thanks, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-08-2002, 09:50 PM | #31 |
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cam...
If you install the Stage 1 w/ 1.6's you can always bolt on 1.7's later if everything is working well.
RR's are easy to install.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
10-09-2002, 10:33 AM | #32 |
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i guess i could but if i dont have to buy 1.6 rockers i wont. i just dont want the 1.7's to cause too much stress and also too much lift that it creates drivability issues.
once again, do you want to sell your B-303? im thinking ill just go with the stage 1 and new 1.6 rockers. thanks again for the help, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-09-2002, 11:29 AM | #33 |
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
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B303
I couldn't tell you when I'm going to take the cam out.
My wife just gave birth to our second daughter and I don't have time to do jack. In fact, she's yelling at me now...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
10-09-2002, 01:20 PM | #34 |
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haha, congrats and good luck!
thanks for the help, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-09-2002, 01:40 PM | #35 |
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cam selection
I wouldn't recommend buying a used cam. It's just not a good idea. For $50-$100 more you can have the reassurance of knowing that your cam is brand new & should be trouble free. Just my opinion. And putting on the 1.7 rockers really isn't going to make much of a difference. If your pistons are notched...by all means keep your 1.7s instead of buying the 1.6s. You'll get a tad more power out of your combination. I doubt it will put any additional stress on your valvetrain and the lift that the 1.7s give you is still very streetable.
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10-09-2002, 02:07 PM | #36 |
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im not going to buy a used cam. i came to the same conclusion you did.
you said that the 1.7" with the cam will still be streetable, which cam are you refering to? thanks, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-09-2002, 02:53 PM | #37 |
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cam selection
Sorry about that. I forgot we were still discussing multiple cams. I was referring to the B-303 cam with the 1.7 rockers. I run that cam & rockers and love the power and driveability. Let us know what you end up getting and what the improvement is like.
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10-09-2002, 04:07 PM | #38 |
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dont worry, ill let you guys know as soon as i decide but i do want to make sure i am getting the "right" cam. haha. its so confusing... its a hard decision. keep the opinions comming.
thanks, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
10-09-2002, 06:08 PM | #39 |
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Hey guys, sorry for popping my nose into this discusion so late, but I am doing a complete engine rebuild and buying pretty much all of the parts new. I have so far gotten the edelbrock performer rpm heads with the 2.02 intake valves, and a e-303 cam. I have been told that I will need notched pistons and I am considering going with some forged alluminum pistons, not sure exactly what brand(any suggestions?) with approx. 10:1 compression pistons. I guess my big question is what ratio rocker arms should I go with, and what push rods? Also, are non-roller rocker arms good enough, the roller rocker arms seem nice but for the increase in cost to horsepower gain, they seem too much money. This is my first time rebuilding an engine so any words of wisdom is much appreciated.
Thanks a lot, |
10-09-2002, 09:06 PM | #40 |
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roller rockers= yes
ratio of rockers = 1.6 with the 2.02 valves. notch pistons= possibly depending on which ones you go with, call the companies of pistons... take care, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
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