carb issues

[82 GT]

It doesn't.....you have to disconnect the jumpers, plug the module back in and try and start the car. If its not charged enough then you start over....unplug the module and try to jump it again. It'a a PITA but that's what you HAVE to do with these things.
I doubt it's your module though. In my experience, it either works or doesn't work.
I know REV has had one that started back up for awhile and quit again but at that point, you may as well consider it dead.

[rwhite65]

I am not sure at this point it is it, but I think I remember it doing this one other time....although it was a long time ago. I read how to check to see if it is working with a credit card, but if it is not that I am a little it stumped right now. Since it actually runs, I would think it will test just fine.

Ryan

[82 GT]

Do you have another carb to try?

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

Do you have another carb to try?

Yes I do, although it is not a Holley, so things might not hook up as easily.

I know I have been doing some minor adjustments lately, but this is a new problem that came on rather fast. I am not against swapping, but will probably check all other areas first. By the way, I love my new book.
Ryan

[82 GT]

Here's a though. Is it possible that your rockers need re-adjusted?
I know you don't have a solid cam but maybe an adjusting nut worked loose. This is an area where nobody has suggested yet.

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

Here's a though. Is it possible that your rockers need re-adjusted?
I know you don't have a solid cam but maybe an adjusting nut worked loose. This is an area where nobody has suggested yet.

It has me thinking that could be a possibility, but I would assume I would here some noises?? I had a rocker work loose due to the rocker conversion kit (pedestal to stud) this spring, and when it went there was no doubt it was not adjusted properly. The difference here is I can get some power out of it by getting on it. When rockers (just one) worked lose, I lost ALL power.

I checked the cap, rotor, and module. The first two are good and the module clicks when I run a card thru it, making me believe it is also good for now. I have a heater core to replace for a buddy, so I may or may not get to this thing by the weekend. I may just take off work so I can tackle it and hopefully figure it out.

Ryan

[82 GT]

I think at this point, I would do the carb. swap even if it means moving things around to get it hooked up. That way, you can eliminate drivetrain and carb.
The only thing left would be valvetrain.
I'm really thinking it's the carb. because when you made changes to it, the symptoms got better or worse.

[~The Jester~]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

I think at this point, I would do the carb. swap even if it means moving things around to get it hooked up. That way, you can eliminate drivetrain and carb.
The only thing left would be valvetrain.
I'm really thinking it's the carb. because when you made changes to it, the symptoms got better or worse.

Exactly. Most of the time if you can change symptoms, that means you're in the right area. MOST of the time.

[PKRWUD]

I really don't see how the carb could be responsible for the symptoms you've described, but if it makes you feel better, go ahead and swap it out.

[82 GT]

He already ruled out the converter and tranny, he says. What's left...the carb. and valvetrain.
When he made changes to the carb...it effected the symptoms.
So, it's either the carb or valvetrain or it IS the tranny or converter. He didn't say how he ruled out the drivetrain so we're just going by what he said.

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

He already ruled out the converter and tranny, he says. What's left...the carb. and valvetrain.
When he made changes to the carb...it effected the symptoms.
So, it's either the carb or valvetrain or it IS the tranny or converter. He didn't say how he ruled out the drivetrain so we're just going by what he said.

I have not ruled out the tranny, just a gut feeling that I know it is not that when it comes to my carb issues. As for the new prob, I believe it is new and seperate, but until I find it I am just blowin smoke

[PKRWUD]

I was referring to the new problem, but honestly, I don't see how the carb would create a shudder at cruise, either. Still, anything is possible. I think you should try and solve your new problem before digging into the old one.

[Rev]

I still have the installation instructions for my Unilite. I'm going to try and find that part about not jump starting the car while using a Unilite module.

Rev

[Rev]

Reread the Unilite installation instruction sheets. Couldn't any reference to or admonishments concerning jump starting the vehicle while using the Unilite distributor. My instructions were published more than ten years ago though. Maybe newer instructions are different than mine.

Rev

[~The Jester~]

Just exactly WHAT problem are we solving here? Seems like we have several.

FIRST AND FOREMOST!!! Is this something that all of a sudden started happening, or something that's been there since we put the car together, and we're just now getting around to spraying some RAID on that bug?

[82 GT]

Originally Posted by Rev

Reread the Unilite installation instruction sheets. Couldn't any reference to or admonishments concerning jump starting the vehicle while using the Unilite distributor. My instructions were published more than ten years ago though. Maybe newer instructions are different than mine.

Rev

I couldn't find mine but here is a link to the online instrustions. Scroll down to where it lists possible causes of module failure.
It doesn't say "jumper cables" but it DOES say "charger", which is the same thing.
Here's the link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ma...tprocedure.pdf

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by PKRWUD

I was referring to the new problem, but honestly, I don't see how the carb would create a shudder at cruise, either. Still, anything is possible. I think you should try and solve your new problem before digging into the old one.

I have broken just about everything you can with transmissions in the last ten years and I have had T.C.'s fail before. The original problem may have to do with the lock up, but my gut is telling me we were on to something with the carb. My knowledge of carbs has always been inferior, until recently when I decided I would learn all I could. PKRWUD, your knowledge of the carbs is incredible, so bear with me on this. Holley advises to use the vacuum gauge to figure out the proper power valve, as they also felt that was my problem when I called the tech line. I have not looked to see which power valve I have at the moment, but I am betting it is the 6.5, more then I need according to Holley. Plus, the new Holey book I bought talks about how the power valve can be responsible for surging under loads. You helped me get rid of the off idle stumble, and the only stumble (I called it a shudder) left is under a load, with my AOD. Makes sense to me that I am on to something there. I may rig the Vacuum gauge up in the car to confirm this.

The new problem....I took off work tomorrow so I can figure this thing out. I am basically going to start the F$($$ thing and let it run til the noise gets louder, or I find it, which ever comes first. If that fails, I am going to do hole shots up and down my street til it becomes apparent what has went bad.

Jester-
Other then the throttle not being perfectly smooth thru slow transitions, the car has been fantastic since I swapped the roller motor in last summer. Starts great, runs strong, idles quietly, but has a great lope to the cam. I had just finally decided I can outsmart the carb gods by fine tuning it, thinking I could get it perfect. One day the thing started making the weird noise, and within 20 minutes I had major power loss in the lower rpms. I will fix it tomorrow or break it, either way I am fed up with it
Ryan

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

I couldn't find mine but here is a link to the online instrustions. Scroll down to where it lists possible causes of module failure.
It doesn't say "jumper cables" but it DOES say "charger", which is the same thing.
Here's the link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ma...tprocedure.pdf

You're misreading that. Their main concern is that you don't have the module connected if you are using a battery charger set to High. The reason is they don't want you to supply more than 15 volts to the module, and chargers set to High can put out much more than 15 volts. Jump starting is fine, provided the vehicle you're jumping from isn't putting out more than 15 volts.

Trust me on this.

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by rwhite65

I have broken just about everything you can with transmissions in the last ten years and I have had T.C.'s fail before. The original problem may have to do with the lock up, but my gut is telling me we were on to something with the carb. My knowledge of carbs has always been inferior, until recently when I decided I would learn all I could. PKRWUD, your knowledge of the carbs is incredible, so bear with me on this. Holley advises to use the vacuum gauge to figure out the proper power valve, as they also felt that was my problem when I called the tech line. I have not looked to see which power valve I have at the moment, but I am betting it is the 6.5, more then I need according to Holley. Plus, the new Holey book I bought talks about how the power valve can be responsible for surging under loads. You helped me get rid of the off idle stumble, and the only stumble (I called it a shudder) left is under a load, with my AOD. Makes sense to me that I am on to something there. I may rig the Vacuum gauge up in the car to confirm this.

I think the problem I'm having is in the terminology you're using. A stumble can be caused by a carb issue, a shudder tends to be caused by slippage in the driveline (for example, a burned flywheel will cause a shudder when you let out the clutch). It's all good, I just wasn't clear on what you meant.

Regardless, I agree that your first priority needs to be identifying your new problem. Just out of curiosity, do you have a vacuum advance on your Unilite?

[82 GT]

Originally Posted by PKRWUD

Jump starting is fine, provided the vehicle you're jumping from isn't putting out more than 15 volts.

Trust me on this.

Well, that's the thing...you really never know if the car that's jumping you charging system is up to snuff or not. I always disconnect mine. Before they made this new "e module", they were about $90...too much for me to take a chance with.