what gives. Subframe Connectors for 1987 convertible.

[Gasman]

I bought subframe connectors for my 1987 gt convertible from cgs chassis in northcarolina. They said the riveted plates I have attached from my torque box to my rocker rails are after-market, thought they came original from factory. Looks like I will not be able to weld the rear subframes to the riveted plates? Can anyone straighten me out on this, please. Thanks.

[Dark_5.0]

Those plates are stock .....Take a drill and drill the heads off of the rivets and the plates come right off then you can weld.

If you have any problems feel free to PM me ...

Later,

[Gasman]

Thanks for replying. I was under the impression that the rocker-rails and riveted plates (front and back) were acting like a chassis stiffener as is. If I remove the riveted plates wont I be giving up support?

[Dark_5.0]

Maybe a little but you will make up for it with the subframes. I took the plates out and welded in subframes about a month ago. Let me tell you that I feel that other than gears the subframes were the best mod for the dollar that I have made.

If you plan on getting a good 60ft in a vert, subframes are a must.

Later,

[chatcher]

do those rivited plates only come on the verts

[Gasman]

Thanks Dark_5.0…. Going out to the garage now and take off those plates.
Chatcher as far as I know those plates are just on the Convertibles.

[Dark_5.0]

Let me know how it goes.

Later,

[Spyder]

Hey I have page on that one.
Check it out..

Conv Subframe Install

[Pro-AMT]

The stiffener plates are after factory parts added by the outfit that did convert conversions for Ford. To add subs I think it is best to:

• Put the sub in place and mark the car very carefully
  
• Drop the sub down and pop (drill the heads) on the rivets along the uni-frame
  
• Use and highspeed cutter to cutback the stiffener plate so it butts to the edge of the sub per your marks
  
• Put the sub up and weld...to frame...to stiffener and tack stiffeners along the body as well to get a reasonable cross brace for free

Just my two cents on how mine went. Whatever you do weld them and enjoy

[93yello1]

After reading Pro-AMT's post, I like the idea of keeping the plate intact. I contacted Steeda, who said it would be possible to use connectors on my '93 convert. that are actually for '94-'01 Stangs, since they have the L-shaped brackets at the rear of the connector. My question being, would it be wise to retain the reinforcement plate, tack the edge of it along where it meets the "frame" and then weld on the connector bracket to this plate and the other part of the bracket to the vehicle frame?

Now, I may be coming out of left field on this one but... When I ordered sub frames for my car (about 7 yrs ago) only one company made them for the vert, Kenny Brown. I don't know about what is out there now but the very first line on the CE set I ordered said "Not to be used on Convertibles". Like I said, I may be out of line but then again... maybe you need some subs made to fit your car..

[JohnnyG]

I didn't want to give up the factory braces either, so I welded the factory braces in place, then ground the flanges on the factory braces down so that the subds laid over them nicely... THEN, I welded the subs to the chassis. It was clean, and it worked. IMHO, you need all the bracing you can get on a Vert.

-John

[93yello1]

What brand of subs did you use? When you say you welded the factory braces in place, did you weld the rear plate just along the edge which is riveted to the rear subframe? I have contacted Kenny Brown since the style that they have (weld-in) seems to be a better fit than ones with the L-shape bracket for the rear. Their instructions for installing state to weld the edge of the orig. plate to the subframe, grind off the rivets, theen, to weld the connector into place. My only concern at this time is will the connector sit flush on the rear subframe and plate, or will I need to modify that area to make that happen? The K.B. rep couldn't answer this for me since they don't have a pre-95 Stang in the shop and it's been a while since they have done this style car is what they told me. You wouldn't by chance have any pics of the connectors installed? One last thing, are they full length, and if so, what did you need to do on the front where the other braces and plates are?

[JohnnyG]

I have the Maximum Motorsports full-length connectors.

As you described, I welded the edges of the factory braces to the frame rail. Then, you'll notice little flanges that hang down from each cut on the factory braces... I used an angle grinder to take these flanges off along the frame rail. This was done on all four factory braces (front & back).

Now the connectors were able to lay relatively flush against the frame rail. The 1/16" thick factory brace (with the flanges now ground-off) caused minimal interference- the gap between the frame rail and the connector was a maximum of 1/16" in only a couple of places.

The full-length connectors were welded in place, and I laid a thicker weld along the areas where there was a small gap.

There were three locating tabs on the connector that were welded to the frame, but the majority of welding was the connector directly on the frame... welded more or less the entire length of the connector. This left a finished product built like a brick s***house!

I don't know about the Kenny Brown subs, but the MM connectors were bent to follow the curve of the floor pan, and this curve was able to be further "tweaked" at the time of installation. MM then provided reinforcing plates to be welded in at the bends in the connectors, thus providing a form-fitting, yet uncompromised stiff connector.

So to answer your question, the full length connector sat maximally flush without giving up the factory bracing. Any areas where the connector wasn't touching the frame was filled with weld. The result was a hellova solid foundation, and despite the more complicated install, I would not do it any differently.

MM makes a great product... I won't give you a sales pitch, but I'll tell you that they do it right... and I see no room for improvement with this product.

-John