X,B,or E303 camshaft?

[Agent_4573]

What are the power attributes of each cam? I'm getting gt40p heads and intake to go along with what i have now. I'm looking for something that will be streetable as this is my daily driver. I don't car if its lopey or anything like that sitting at a street light as long as it stays running. What are the power bands of each cam? I launch at 3000 rpm at the track and when im racing that really what the rpms stay at so which one isbetter for 2500-5500 rpm band? Thanks guys.

[KillerStang]

X-
ultra high performance camshaft. fair idle quality. big time torque and horsepower maker-up to 6200 RPM. 5-speed manual recommended.
*not legal for sale or use on pollution-controlled motor vechiles
*may require piston modification for piston-to-valve clearence. valve clearence should be checked.

B-
fair idle wuality. good low-end torque. significanttop-end horsepower about 4000 RPM. 5 speed manual transmission recommended.
*not legal for sale or use on pollution-controlled motor vechiles

E-
good idle quality. excellent low- and mid-range power. power throught 6000RPM. emmisions legal with 5 speed manual trans. works good with automatic transmissions. great for superchargers

-specs out of ford racing catalog-

[Agent_4573]

I like the sound of the "x" cam but i don't like the idea of having a problem with piston clearance. Getting the pistons fly cut is not an option with me. Does anyone in here run the x cam without any clearance problems? I mean if i keep the stock ratio roller rockers will i have a problem with clearance?

What about crane? Do they make something like the b cam that has power up through 5500 rpms? or maybe something like the x cam but not so beefy as to cause clearance problems?

[fiveohpatrol]

Dont jump on the alphabet cam bandwagon.

The cams are decent, but there are ALOT better cams out there.

I'd call up Rick Anderson at Anderson Ford Motorsport, and have him reccomend you one of his cams based on your combination. Thats what I'll be doing as soon as I can get the money. The only reason I have a B cam is because I got it cheap.

Better yet, check out Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction. He designs incredible custom ground cams, but is a little pricey.

If you plan on being serious, then stay away from the "off the shelf" cams, especially the motorsport ones.

I'm not a 100% sure, but I think that the E-303 cam is the only one out of the three that you mentioned, that you can use without needing your pistons fly cut. I run the B cam w/ 1.72 rockers and love the set up. My motor pulls hard from 3000-6000rpms. My pistons have been cut though, during the build up of my current motor.

[fiveohpatrol]

I'm not a 100% sure, but I think that the E-303 cam is the only one out of the three that you mentioned, that you can use without needing your pistons fly cut

You can run all three without having the pistons flycut. The X has the most lift out of them, and altough cutting it a little close, its still fine with stock HO pistons.

The B cam, even with 1.72 rockers doesnt even make it close to needing the pistons flycut. The total lift would be 0.516" with 1.72's. Not exactly pushing it.

If you stay under 540" lift or so, then you wont need to have them flycut, unless ofcourse you have a pre-87 shortblock with the flattop pistons.

fiveohpatrol-
Thanks for the info. man. I never knew you could throw an X cam in with the stock pistons! I was told the B cam would be close, and I wasn't willing to be the guenie pig, if you know what I mean. I learn something new everyday on this message board.

[Agent_4573]

I was looking at anderson ford's webpage and i was looking up there camshafts... all of them say at least a minimum of 24 pound injectors and most require an 80mm mass air. Do you really need this for the cams cuz i wanna put in a new cam with the heads and intake but i don't have money for injectors and stuff like. So is anyone in here actually running a cam from anderson with 19 lb injectors and a stock mass air. I have a C&L 76mm mass air but can't get it to work right but thats an option. as for the injectos i have no clue how to afford them.

[jim_howard_pdx]

I will weigh in and say that the GT40P heads (explorer) are the worst waste of money known to ford racing. I hate them yesterday, I hate them today, and I will hate them tomorrow. If you are buying them because they are cheap SHAME ON YOU. Get some Dart Iron Windsor Jr heads, about 700.00 or the Windsor head at the same price. One has 170 cc intake ports the other has 190 cc ports. One has 1.97 intake valves the other has 2.02 intake valves.

I run Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads, and have them ported to 198 cc. They flow as well as stock LS 6 Big block chevy heads. THIS IS SAYING SOMETHING.

Awesome low end torque, and the exhaust flows 80% of the intake. This is what you expect from a Nascar type head or a ProStock type head. The water jackets are the absolute best I have ever seen on any head bolted to a ford. So good that after 5 years of blistering performance, they were so flat, I did not have to surface them.

I like the comp cams solid roller lifter roller cams. You can look their cams up on the internet. They show it all under catalog. You do not have to pay for anything custom ground, because guys comp cams has already ground them all.

With Trick Flow heads you can run up to 500 lift at 295 degrees duration without fear of hitting a thing. I am running 520 and 540 on the exhaust with plenty to spare.

You must use some clay to verify your spacing. Plus if you have hydraulic lifters, you must use a special roller lifter without a spring to check the true clearance.

Go for the highest lift you can possibly squeeze in with the head you select but keep the duration at 0.050 lift to about 225 to 230 degrees on the intake, and 235-240 on the exhaust. That will give you a great street rod engine.

Check out my thread called Please comment of my speed secret number one.

[fiveohpatrol]

jim_howard_pdx have you had personal experience with the P heads? Obviously, you must have extensive experience to make such a statement

My car will soon have the P heads, and I WILL make you change your mind about them when you see my numbers afterwards.

If you're still not satisfied when that happens, then just look at Jeff Chambers' very low 11second NA stang using GT40P heads.

Are there better heads out there? Yes, ofcourse. But don't go bashing something you know nothing about.

[88workcar]

Believe what you want. Tested tried and true, with ported gt-40s and a gt-40 intake on a stock bottom you will not find a BETTER CAM than a WOLVERINE 1087. We even tried two custom cams, and $500 and three can changes later the ol 1087 was back in the car kicken butt. Shelf yes, letter no. You want my E?

[fiveohpatrol]

interesting

whats the specs on that wolverine 1087? I may just have to look into that. Whats the price on them as well?

[Agent_4573]

I'm already dead set on the gt40p's. Its all i can afford and if you think shame on me then shame on me. Its better than what i have now. I would really like to konw more about hte wolverine cam also. If its really that good its probably the cam for me.

[Capri306]

To heck with the alphabet cams IMHO. I've installed E cams in quite a few different configurations (okay, I helped install them in friends' cars several times, all with different combos), and all of them ran the same times or worse (MINE!) in the ¼-mile. If you want a lopey idle and terrible gas mileage, go with the E cam. I'll vouch for CompCams any day. They really seem to be on the right track. If the engine is more street-oriented and you need that fat torque curve, keep the lift high and the duration more conservative. This is why I'm a big advocate of using 1.7 rockers on the stock cam instead of just "jamming in a bigger cam and hoping it works." Forget bigger injectors until you have an engine that can support the airflow which necessitates them. Otherwise, it's more gas out the 'pipe. Try tweaking fuel pressure instead.

jim_howard_pdx: I didn't get the gains I expected with P heads, either. However, do you have any experience with AFR aluminum heads?

[88workcar]

Jim howard pdx. How dare you put someone down because of the choice that they make on a car. Shopping for price, or what ever reason he has for deciding on GTPs is his choice. I have E7s, and I am going to buy a set from power heads, yes more E7s. I guess you think that you are up there next to GOD with your speed secret crap. Thats why your 400+hp car runs 13s, high 13s. You have alot of nerve telling someone what you did. If all the speed crap works why do you run 13s. I have E7s , Speed density, which you probaly condim, a cobra intake, a junk shelf E cam, and when I read your post I figured out that I am a dumm butt, Butt I will kick the crap out of your car in the 1/4 and so will Agent 4573 if he gets those gt-p heads. I may be wrong for posting this but you take the cake. Shame on you Mr Jim
Jason Johnson

[Jeff Chambers]

Don't let anyone ever tell you that the P heads are junk. If you've got concerns about staying smog legal, are on a low budget, restricted by class rules, or just want to retain that factory look, they're a great option. Like anything else you bolt to your car, you've got to understand how they work and carefully select your parts to go with them for maximum performance. Max performance isn't going to come from an E-cam or a cam straight out of the Comp Cams catalog, but maximum performance won't pass smog testing either (in most cases). If its a daily driver that's got to pass smog testing, then I'd try to keep the duration to 225 or 230 max at 0.050" lift. More duration can be made to pass the tests, but it usually takes a little finess to make it happen.

The P heads will support well into the 450hp to 500hp range, with the stock sized valves and in unported form. I've seen it happen, more than once. And that's with a .500" lift cam and shorty headers. Don't get all hung up on the flow numbers that head manufacturer's try to push. Flow is definitely important, but it's not going to help a bit if you're not building to support/use it. My heads only flow 201/140 at 28 in-H20 yet they made 465hp/424ft-lbs on the dyno.

Don't take everything that read to be the God's truth. Read/learn as much as you can, talk with folks who have done different things, then try to apply what you think fits in with your goals. Also set your goals and expectations reasonably. You can't expect to build a 400hp street sleeper on a $1000 budget nor do it overnight. Be patient and make sound decisions.

By the way, my GT-40P heads will be for sale here very shortly....any takers?

[Agent_4573]

complete w/ rocker arms ? and how much?

Right now my bank account is down to around 300 dollars but i get paid again the on 15th. I'm only 19 and I'm asking my yparents for a tach, heads, and headers for x-mas. Hopefully I'll get one of the three, probably the tach since its the cheapest but it still helps alot. I'm not to worried about keeping it street legal cuz New Jersey has pretty strict smog tests and I'm to lazy to keep switching to a cat'd exhaust, I just love my h-pipe. I'm probably just gonna buy the inspection stickers from now on or I even know a guy that has a shop that will get my car past inspection even if its not really passable.

[Agent_4573]

Any info on the wolverine cam mention earlier? or even a website or a phone number for em?

[88workcar]

I getting the info, from memory it's 515 525

[88workcar]

Here it is. WBR - 1087 289/299 222/232 .510/.534 If you decide to use this cam, it will have to be purchased from a diff cam builder. I will get that info for you also, Good luck with your package and your cam choice.