Just bought an 89 'Stang. Need Mod advice

AxeMan · 08-13-2001, 12:30 PM

Well, it's official. I bought that 89 5.0 I was looking at. Here's what the car came with: Flowmaster dual exhaust, centerforce clutch and accel wires. Really not too much in way of mods.

Since I just laid down 2500 for it, I'm a bit light in the wallet for a little while. Anyone know of some cheap mods I can do to it for a little extra?

Mr 5 0 · 08-13-2001, 07:05 PM

Change the oil and filter immediately.

The, start with a basic tune-up.

New: spark plugs (Autolite #24 or 24), decent plug wires (Ford Racing wires are O.K. - don't go nuts with this), brass-terminal distributor cap, rotor, gas filter.
Buy a K&N panel filter if your '89 doesn't already have one in place; if it does, get a cleaning kit to clean and re-oil the filter.
Advance the timing to 14 degrees; be sure to use 92+ octane gas when you do this.

This simple tune-up (you do the labor) will cost you anywhere from $60. to $100.+ for parts and should get the '89 running right and give you a baseline to start from.

84LX89GT · 08-14-2001, 01:25 AM

Congrats on your excellent purchase. I just bought an '89 GT the 24th of last month. Not much i can add to Mr 5 0's post, i agree those are good things to start with. Check the right fender well to see if the air silencer is in there, if it is, rip it out. I heard that is worth 2-3 horsepower and it's free. If you're not concerned about emissions testing you can gut the catalytic converters with a prybar or other long sharp instrument. That's worth i'm guessing 5-10 horsepower and that's also free. If you gut the cats you can run a short belt to bypass the smog pump and that will give you up to another 5 horsepower i believe. A 180 degree thermostat will keep your engine cooler. stock is like 195* and you can get 160* thermostats but i've heard that's too cold for most engines, so with a 180* stat your engine will (theoretically) last longer and i've heard you can gain 1-2 horsepower by doing that and it's only like $12. one thing that i did when i first got my '84 was to drain and refill the manual trans fluid (regular Mercon ATF)and i found some nasty stuff in there, it improved shifting ALOT as well. Good luck, and again congrats on your excellent purchase

------------------
previous name: 84stangLX
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
my LX
'89 Mustang GT
my GT

AxeMan · 08-14-2001, 07:00 AM

Thanks for the good advice guys. I planned on doing a full tune-up on Wednesday because that's my next day off.

A few questions..

Should I use Synthetic, Synthetic mix or just regular 5-30 on the engine? Also, what type of oil filters do you guys use? I've always been partial to Fram but now I hear Bosch is the way to go.

How about platinum spark plugs? I've put Bosch Platinums in every one of my cars with no problems.

Thanks again guys..

Phantom5oh · 08-14-2001, 07:35 AM

Synthetic oil is good and might be worth a few, but don't use a blend. They aren't worth it. The blends are like 5% synthetic, 5% chemicals, and 90% regular oil, with modifiers so it can work with the synthetic. You should never mix the 2!!! The blends do thier job well, but aren't any better than regular oil or synthetic alone. If you use regular oil use 10-40, 5-30 is too thin for a hi po V8. Bosch plugs are very good if you like them use them, they are good. Fram filters are ok, thats what I have, they are good for a cheaper filter, one of the best cheap filters. But they are cheap and easy to find. Hope this helps.

------------------
CHECK OUT MY MODS

http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1350

Loose Cannon Racing
Scarzi Machine Works

AxeMan · 08-14-2001, 08:06 AM

Ok sounds good.

One last question - how many quarts of oil does the 5.0 HO take? The car didnt come with an owner's manual. : /

89 Cobra LX · 08-14-2001, 09:54 AM

5 qts of oil.

I would recommend adding a set of headers as soon as possible. I think you can get a set of Mac shorties for $150.

------------------
Eric - 89 Mustang LX coupe
302 - Cobra Intake - GT40p heads - TFS stage 1 cam - FRPP 1.6 roller rockers - Naturally Aspirated
3:73 gears - KYB shocks and struts - Eibach springs - HPM Mega-bite Jr lower control arms - HPM upper control arms

Mr 5 0 · 08-14-2001, 10:10 AM

Genuine synthetic oil is excellent.

I use Motorcraft filters ($3.00), never a problem.

I still recommed the regular copper Autolite plugs. Dependable and cheap, just change them more often. Expensive platinum plugs last longer but offer almost no performance benefit in excahange for the higher price.

AxeMan · 08-14-2001, 10:38 AM

I thought about picking up some headers.

Will they bolt on without removing the engine?

I havent been under the car yet but I assume there's a "Y" pipe coming down into the cats. Will headers bolt right up to that or will I have to get some custom pipes done?

89 Cobra LX · 08-14-2001, 12:43 PM

Mustangs have true dual-exhaust. There is an H-pipe that the header collectors will bolt to. They bolt-on without having to remove the motor. Takes about 2 hours...

Smokedawg · 08-14-2001, 01:05 PM

More than likely, you will have to have the bolts connecting the stock headers to the h-pipe cut off. They will be rusted to pieces and will break when you try to remove them. Other then that its a breeze. The driver side header is pretty easy. For the passenger side, Remove the tube that goes from the TB to the MAF or does the 89 have SD?? Anyway, if all the emissions crap is still on the back bolt will be a pain in the *** but its a nice add-on to your mustang. Good Luck!

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

HiFlow5 0 · 08-14-2001, 01:15 PM

I

Quote:

Originally posted by 84LX89GT:
f you're not concerned about emissions testing you can gut the catalytic converters with a prybar or other long sharp instrument. That's worth i'm guessing 5-10 horsepower and that's also free. If you gut the cats you can run a short belt to bypass the smog pump and that will give you up to another 5 horsepower i believe.

Don't do it!!!!!!! its not worth it. if u want to run no cats just buy and off-road h-pipe, and switch back to the stock pipe for inspection. i'v heard gutting the cats is bad and doesn't do much besides lose power. as for the smog pump it doesn't really take any power to run, there for useless to bypass, unless you are running a drag car or something.

------------------
89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims
MY89GT

[This message has been edited by HiFlow5 0 (edited 08-14-2001).]

AxeMan · 08-14-2001, 01:28 PM

Well, it's definetly not going to be a drag car. I want it to be a daily driver.

I didnt plan on gutting the cats. There's no emmisions testing where I'm at. I may move to the city within the next year though. I dont want it to be a problem.

I'm going to get a pair of headers. What's the best you guys can recommend? There's quite a few out there.

Also, how about a cold air intake? What are the options we have with those?

Smokedawg · 08-14-2001, 05:00 PM

I would recommend equal length headers..I have the bbk chrome ones and I DO NOT recommend these, the first time I cleaned my motor they rusted and took forever to get the shine back to them. I have heard many great things from MAC headers..

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

Stang Runner · 08-14-2001, 05:36 PM

Hey Smokedawg I have coated headers and I am getting rust after 3 years I do not know WHY I DID NOT GET stainless well I know it was I ran out of $$$ 1,100 on the x-pipe and stainless mufflers and tail pipes But I wished I got stainless headers

------------------
14.62@96.9 Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C
Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5,
NOW it is time for Real power STUFF I Have and will put on after I get everthing: Accel DFI

Mac cold intake, 70MM TB, Valve covers (COOL ONES)255 Fuel pump.
Next to get: rocker arms,Cam,TFS Heads,Injectors 26,Holley intake, What might I need???

84LX89GT · 08-15-2001, 03:26 AM

I'll have to agree with HiFlow50, it really isn't a good idea to gut the cats, but i've never heard any specific dyno numbers on whether you lose power from gutting them or not, some people say you gain power, some say you don't, i think that magazines are reluctant to dyno testing on that because they'd get alot of sh/t for doing it from the EPA or other emissions enforcers (environmental groups or what have you) It's a better idea to get an offroad h-pipe like he said because with the better mandrel bends and consistent pipe volume it has been PROVEN in dyno tests to increase power, plus they're pretty inexpensive (usually between $110 to $160). All i know is gutting your cats will make it louder, i was just guessing on how much you COULD possibly gain. I've heard dyno tests on removing the smog pump that you do increase power because of a fairly high parasitic drag at higher rpms and because a smog pump does move ALOT of air, just look at the inside of one, which would explain the drag, it's also a reason why people, even people who drive on the street alot, convert from power steering to manual because there is a slight weight reduction and also because the engine doesn't have to turn the pump, this is also a principal idea of pulleys, they reduce the amount that the accesories spin and thereby reduce the amount of drag they put on the engine. But staying emissions legal will keep you from getting in trouble. If you want to keep your car relatively stock and want an easy install, 1 1/2" shorty headers work better than stock and i've heard increase torque as well as horepower all accross the power range on a stock engine.

------------------
previous name: 84stangLX
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
my LX
'89 Mustang GT
my GT

08-13-2001, 12:30 PM	#1
AxeMan Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Wilkes-Barre,PA Posts: 23	Just bought an 89 'Stang. Need Mod advice Well, it's official. I bought that 89 5.0 I was looking at. Here's what the car came with: Flowmaster dual exhaust, centerforce clutch and accel wires. Really not too much in way of mods. Since I just laid down 2500 for it, I'm a bit light in the wallet for a little while. Anyone know of some cheap mods I can do to it for a little extra?

08-14-2001, 05:36 PM	#15
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	Hey Smokedawg I have coated headers and I am getting rust after 3 years I do not know WHY I DID NOT GET stainless well I know it was I ran out of $$$ 1,100 on the x-pipe and stainless mufflers and tail pipes But I wished I got stainless headers ------------------ 14.62@96.9 Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5, NOW it is time for Real power STUFF I Have and will put on after I get everthing: Accel DFIMac cold intake, 70MM TB, Valve covers (COOL ONES)255 Fuel pump. Next to get: rocker arms,Cam,TFS Heads,Injectors 26,Holley intake, What might I need???

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
"I BOUGHT AN ABUSE VICTIM"!!!	Dark_5.0	Blue Oval Lounge	26	03-24-2005 02:39 AM
I bought my 1st stang..and it won't start!!!	pepe_la_pew15	Windsor Power	2	06-30-2004 01:27 AM
just bought first stang, need help, dont know much about this stuff	od0g1742	Windsor Power	11	10-15-2001 04:00 PM
Selling off a Stang.. only to get another!	Super_Stang	Windsor Power	4	08-23-2001 09:30 PM
I need some legal advice. Ive been screwed	jezze269	Blue Oval Lounge	8	04-25-2001 11:14 PM

08-13-2001, 07:05 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Change the oil and filter immediately. The, start with a basic tune-up. New: spark plugs (Autolite #24 or 24), decent plug wires (Ford Racing wires are O.K. - don't go nuts with this), brass-terminal distributor cap, rotor, gas filter. Buy a K&N panel filter if your '89 doesn't already have one in place; if it does, get a cleaning kit to clean and re-oil the filter. Advance the timing to 14 degrees; be sure to use 92+ octane gas when you do this. This simple tune-up (you do the labor) will cost you anywhere from $60. to $100.+ for parts and should get the '89 running right and give you a baseline to start from.

08-14-2001, 01:25 AM	#3
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	Congrats on your excellent purchase. I just bought an '89 GT the 24th of last month. Not much i can add to Mr 5 0's post, i agree those are good things to start with. Check the right fender well to see if the air silencer is in there, if it is, rip it out. I heard that is worth 2-3 horsepower and it's free. If you're not concerned about emissions testing you can gut the catalytic converters with a prybar or other long sharp instrument. That's worth i'm guessing 5-10 horsepower and that's also free. If you gut the cats you can run a short belt to bypass the smog pump and that will give you up to another 5 horsepower i believe. A 180 degree thermostat will keep your engine cooler. stock is like 195* and you can get 160* thermostats but i've heard that's too cold for most engines, so with a 180* stat your engine will (theoretically) last longer and i've heard you can gain 1-2 horsepower by doing that and it's only like $12. one thing that i did when i first got my '84 was to drain and refill the manual trans fluid (regular Mercon ATF)and i found some nasty stuff in there, it improved shifting ALOT as well. Good luck, and again congrats on your excellent purchase ------------------ previous name: 84stangLX '84 Mustang 5.0 LX my LX '89 Mustang GT my GT

08-14-2001, 07:00 AM	#4
AxeMan Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Wilkes-Barre,PA Posts: 23	Thanks for the good advice guys. I planned on doing a full tune-up on Wednesday because that's my next day off. A few questions.. Should I use Synthetic, Synthetic mix or just regular 5-30 on the engine? Also, what type of oil filters do you guys use? I've always been partial to Fram but now I hear Bosch is the way to go. How about platinum spark plugs? I've put Bosch Platinums in every one of my cars with no problems. Thanks again guys..

08-14-2001, 07:35 AM	#5
Phantom5oh Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 334	Synthetic oil is good and might be worth a few, but don't use a blend. They aren't worth it. The blends are like 5% synthetic, 5% chemicals, and 90% regular oil, with modifiers so it can work with the synthetic. You should never mix the 2!!! The blends do thier job well, but aren't any better than regular oil or synthetic alone. If you use regular oil use 10-40, 5-30 is too thin for a hi po V8. Bosch plugs are very good if you like them use them, they are good. Fram filters are ok, thats what I have, they are good for a cheaper filter, one of the best cheap filters. But they are cheap and easy to find. Hope this helps. ------------------ CHECK OUT MY MODS http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1350 Loose Cannon Racing Scarzi Machine Works

08-14-2001, 08:06 AM	#6
AxeMan Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Wilkes-Barre,PA Posts: 23	Ok sounds good. One last question - how many quarts of oil does the 5.0 HO take? The car didnt come with an owner's manual. : /

08-14-2001, 09:54 AM	#7
89 Cobra LX Don Corlione Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Omaha NE USA Posts: 491	5 qts of oil. I would recommend adding a set of headers as soon as possible. I think you can get a set of Mac shorties for $150. ------------------ Eric - 89 Mustang LX coupe 302 - Cobra Intake - GT40p heads - TFS stage 1 cam - FRPP 1.6 roller rockers - Naturally Aspirated 3:73 gears - KYB shocks and struts - Eibach springs - HPM Mega-bite Jr lower control arms - HPM upper control arms

08-14-2001, 10:10 AM	#8
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Genuine synthetic oil is excellent. I use Motorcraft filters ($3.00), never a problem. I still recommed the regular copper Autolite plugs. Dependable and cheap, just change them more often. Expensive platinum plugs last longer but offer almost no performance benefit in excahange for the higher price.

08-14-2001, 10:38 AM	#9
AxeMan Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Wilkes-Barre,PA Posts: 23	I thought about picking up some headers. Will they bolt on without removing the engine? I havent been under the car yet but I assume there's a "Y" pipe coming down into the cats. Will headers bolt right up to that or will I have to get some custom pipes done?

08-14-2001, 12:43 PM	#10
89 Cobra LX Don Corlione Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Omaha NE USA Posts: 491	Mustangs have true dual-exhaust. There is an H-pipe that the header collectors will bolt to. They bolt-on without having to remove the motor. Takes about 2 hours...

08-14-2001, 01:05 PM	#11
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	More than likely, you will have to have the bolts connecting the stock headers to the h-pipe cut off. They will be rusted to pieces and will break when you try to remove them. Other then that its a breeze. The driver side header is pretty easy. For the passenger side, Remove the tube that goes from the TB to the MAF or does the 89 have SD?? Anyway, if all the emissions crap is still on the back bolt will be a pain in the *** but its a nice add-on to your mustang. Good Luck! ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

08-14-2001, 01:28 PM	#13
AxeMan Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Wilkes-Barre,PA Posts: 23	Well, it's definetly not going to be a drag car. I want it to be a daily driver. I didnt plan on gutting the cats. There's no emmisions testing where I'm at. I may move to the city within the next year though. I dont want it to be a problem. I'm going to get a pair of headers. What's the best you guys can recommend? There's quite a few out there. Also, how about a cold air intake? What are the options we have with those?

08-14-2001, 05:00 PM	#14
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	I would recommend equal length headers..I have the bbk chrome ones and I DO NOT recommend these, the first time I cleaned my motor they rusted and took forever to get the shine back to them. I have heard many great things from MAC headers.. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

08-15-2001, 03:26 AM	#16
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	I'll have to agree with HiFlow50, it really isn't a good idea to gut the cats, but i've never heard any specific dyno numbers on whether you lose power from gutting them or not, some people say you gain power, some say you don't, i think that magazines are reluctant to dyno testing on that because they'd get alot of sh/t for doing it from the EPA or other emissions enforcers (environmental groups or what have you) It's a better idea to get an offroad h-pipe like he said because with the better mandrel bends and consistent pipe volume it has been PROVEN in dyno tests to increase power, plus they're pretty inexpensive (usually between $110 to $160). All i know is gutting your cats will make it louder, i was just guessing on how much you COULD possibly gain. I've heard dyno tests on removing the smog pump that you do increase power because of a fairly high parasitic drag at higher rpms and because a smog pump does move ALOT of air, just look at the inside of one, which would explain the drag, it's also a reason why people, even people who drive on the street alot, convert from power steering to manual because there is a slight weight reduction and also because the engine doesn't have to turn the pump, this is also a principal idea of pulleys, they reduce the amount that the accesories spin and thereby reduce the amount of drag they put on the engine. But staying emissions legal will keep you from getting in trouble. If you want to keep your car relatively stock and want an easy install, 1 1/2" shorty headers work better than stock and i've heard increase torque as well as horepower all accross the power range on a stock engine. ------------------ previous name: 84stangLX '84 Mustang 5.0 LX my LX '89 Mustang GT my GT