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Old 09-10-2004, 12:53 AM   #1
Solarassult
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Default Ten Grand

Hey Guys,

Ive decided just to take out a loan and make one major purchase instead of working and buying peices one by one. I am going to take out a loan for 10,000. I would like to know what I can do with that money to maximise horsepower yet remaining fairly streetable. I thought about intake and heads and all that but I would really like to know what would give me the best combo, or supercharger turbo, nitrous..... Just whats my best investment for the money?
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Old 09-10-2004, 12:51 PM   #2
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Which car and are you mech incline?
Do you want something very simple?
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Old 09-10-2004, 02:35 PM   #3
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With 10K you should be able to do nicely.. Are you working on it yourself? A nice 347 stroker with a turbo will get you going nicely..
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Old 09-10-2004, 02:49 PM   #4
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$1200 heads
$500 intake
$300 cam
$1000 misc parts (injectors/gaskets...)
=========================
$3000 for 300rwhp

Throw on an S-Trim for $4k, or a single turbo (know someone that has one for $3500), and you are at 450rwhp. Still have a few thousand left over.
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Old 09-10-2004, 02:57 PM   #5
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Don't forget about your driveline ( trans and rear end ).. with the Hp the stock stuff will blow.. a good trans like a tremec and a nice rear end will be great.. essentials.
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Old 09-11-2004, 12:42 AM   #6
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I personally would go with the stroker....with the wxtra cubes....u wont have to push it as hard as a smaller engine to ge the same power.

D.S.S short block.....good heads.....and dont forget the suspension to get it to the ground. You will need the extra for all the little expenses that u never expect.....but u will have em. If u put a supercharger or turbo on that.....more power then I am looken for.
Ryan
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Old 09-11-2004, 01:47 AM   #7
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Im looking for something that will give me big gains in power to the point where i wont have a problem taking someone in a street race. I am not as of now mech inclined but i learn easly and have the desire to learn alll i can. I dont intend to do this my self i do plan on having a local mustang specialist do all the work at once but i need to know what i should have done. If there is a way i can get over 500 hp or like 11.00 or under that would be ideal but i dont know as much as i would like to and you guys are a great help. thanks
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Old 09-11-2004, 10:11 AM   #8
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If you want to have a car run at least 11.00's and live for any certain amount of time then you will need a lot more then $10,000, especially if you are going to have to pay someone for the labor work.

Don't get me wrong, the initial costs and to someone that havn't built a car that fast, will have a hard time seeing that statement true, but trust me it will be some where around $20,000.

For $10,000 I could build a realiable low 12 second car (in N/A trim) and mid 11 sec car at best on spray.

You can build a 10 second car for under $10,000 BUT how long will it last??????

I just finished one that went 10.86 @124.XX that is a ticking time bomb! (on spray)
Runs 12.0-12.1x's on motor alone.

306ci.
11.8 to compression
(DSS High Compression Bullet)
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Victor Jr. intake
650 Mighty Demon Carb
1 5/8 un-equal headers
2.5 off road exhaust
mac mufflers 2.5 inch

NOS power shot evel
150 shot

Z- box transmission
Motorsport HD Clutch
Alminum Drive shaft
4.10 Gears w/ spool
31 spline moser axles

Complete Aeromotive fuel System

Complete after market rear suspension.

And on, and on

Dont forget the cooling system either...that was over $600 too.
My .02's
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Old 09-11-2004, 10:14 AM   #9
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Oh yea,

Alot of those parts were not my choice but they still got the job done.
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Old 09-11-2004, 10:34 AM   #10
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I'm with Nitro on this one. Depedability is NOT cheap, neither is speed. My Dad's favorite saying is "Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go?" My standard answer is "If you're going by the cost of it, I'm already waaaaay too fast!" hehehehehe

Just my $.02, what I would do with 10K for a street beast. Tremec TKO, or a GOOD "bullet proof" C4, depending on your pref. A good Eaton diff, and Strange axles, aftermarket control arms.

DSS short block, this is important here. MAIN GIRDLE!!! Them little 302 blocks won't handle 500+ HP for long without some help down on the bottom.

Get a good fuel system (read: $$$) don't skimp here, it just ain't worth it.

Then I'm a carb type guy, so I would hang a victor jr inbetween some Canfield heads, maybe an F303 cam, and an NX system 6 nitrous system, and go whoop some street butt.

If you're gonna hang a hair dryer on it, go fuel injection. The plumbing is MUCH easier with a computer to turn your adjusting screws for you. Get a regulator that increases fuel pressure when the boost comes on, and speaking of boost, don't get crazy with it if you want it to last. 10psi MAX for the longevity issues.

Like I said, this is just my $.02 but I would love to hear what you decide on! Make sure you let us all know what you decide, and how the project is coming along.
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:05 AM   #11
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Ok since it seems i wont beable to get the speed i want while retainings its lifespan so....How much would it be to build a nice engine to start as a base line. I mean i like the 5.0 but mines is well an inigma to me as i dont know much about it from the past owner so i might jsut start over. What are your views on 351 or stroker kits for those. And with the 10 grand could i have a nice 302 or a nice 351 built to work in my car?
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Old 09-12-2004, 09:26 AM   #12
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Heres the thing,.... when you compare 302 base motors to 351 base motors.
First you need to ask yourself...
The 302 base motor...
Were you going to replace the oil pan, headers, intake, dist. and point on an aftermarket hood on any way????
If so... then you might as well go with a 351 based motor for the simple fact at that point it's not that much more $$ if any.
The 351 base motor will make more power and easier. The 351 production blocks are typically stronger... when comparing them against the production 302 base motors.

Your still spending alot of though... But typically, when finished 408+ cubic inch motors run in the 10's in N/A trim with a hyd roller cam on pump gas!!!!
Mine did. (leaving at idle too!)
Very streetable. But I spent well over $10,000.
I say if you can stay in the 11's and just have people spot you out enough in a strret race, you can win just as many races and keep all that extra money that you were going to spend on the car for extra tires!
If you can stay in the 11's and keep your 302 base motor, your cost would go down signfitcatley!
My.02's
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:48 AM   #13
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and just have people spot you out enough in a strret race.........................What did you mean by this statment? spot me out?..........Second how fast is 11 seconds in relation to most street cars/ import racers in say philly?.............finally.....How signifigantly is signifigantly?
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Old 09-13-2004, 02:34 AM   #14
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running across an import running 11 seconds.....very few and far between in my area. Takes a lot to get them down into those numbers.
Ryan
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:25 AM   #15
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An 11 sec street car is VERY respectable! Not only that, thery're damn few and far between. If you do all the mods with the new motor, she'll live a long happy life, and it'd take something pretty special and/or radical to beat you on the street.

One thing to keep in mind too, the 10K is the initial investment. I'm sure once you get it built, you'll want to add "this", or upgrade "that" etc. They're never "done". hehehehe
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:10 AM   #16
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My brother in law just bought a perfect and I mean perfect.

92 silver GT perfect paint and body.
Full race suspension
Perfect black interior
40 thousand original miles
Every go fast goodie you could imagine
66 millimeter turbo, intercooler, optimizer, electronic boost controller
complete Aeromotive fuel system
macintosh automatic with 4000 stall

Its runs high tens on pump gas and he paid $10,000.00 for it. You couldnt build this car for $20,000.00.

I suggest you take the $10,000.00 and buy an already suped up sweet stang.
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:53 PM   #17
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brings up a good point... When people sell there stangs they loose there investment and the buyer would gain on it... you could sell yours, get $$ for that and get your 10K and really have a cherry car with plenty of goodies..
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:29 PM   #18
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I know that feeling from the seller's perspective. About three years ago a bought a 1980 Jeep CJ5 and completly restored it and only paid 2000 for the jeep at first. After a chevy 350, new axles, tranny, lift kit, bumpers, paint, body work, interior, winch, I spent 20k into that thing. Sold it for only 8900. Ive thought about selling my stang and buying a suped up one but then you also have to worry about the prior owner doggin it to death. Like any other stang owner, those mods on it are for a reason....to race. That is why i took the route with my jeep and did everything myself just to know the quality of goods and how they been treated. Just my .02
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Old 09-14-2004, 01:35 AM   #19
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Oh i know they are never done....my father got a 67 and told my mom it was exactly how he wanted it. As soon as he got it and until this day he still keeps adding to it, most the time without my moms aproval.
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Old 09-14-2004, 01:54 AM   #20
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What would i have to do to get into 11's neway?
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