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06-05-2003, 09:11 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 299
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MAN, what else can go wrong?
i just posted a popping noise thread earlier. NOw I have a new problem and it is DRIPPING oil! I could smell oil when i was driving it so I looked up under neathe the car and noticed it was dripping at the bottom of the rear main seal. I thought it was coming from there, but then I looked above the motor and noticed a little oil on the vavle covers. I put my finger under the throttle cable metal THINGY (triangle shape I think) and it was really wet. Where is this coming from for that piece to be soaked with oil. I think it must be dripping from the top to the bottom and leaving a pouddle under my car each time i park now! WTF I just bought this lemon and am ready to sell this piece of crap! any ideas what i can do? and if it is the rear main seal, how much are they to get fixed? thanks,
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
06-06-2003, 08:41 AM | #2 |
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Location: Tustin, CA
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if you're lucky its just the valve covers leaking... worst case it soundslike it might be the lower intake .. wich isnt TOO bad a job.... that's what you have to deal with with old cars... if you pull the intake that gives you good reason to put on a different one
-as
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'89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit |
06-06-2003, 12:31 PM | #3 |
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Location: Boston
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Honestly, unless I'm completely mistaken, there is nothing in that area that has oil running through it. It could be that the PCV valve has slipped out. Happen to me once. They are simply pressed in, so if it wiggles out, it would generate some oil spillage. If that little vacuum hose on the oil filler neck comes loose, it will cough up oil at regular intervals. Just ask my driveway. I know you've probably checked this, but my power steering pump "squirts" all the time when I turn the wheel to the lock and this fluid hits the underside of the hood and redistributes itself accordingly.
If you suspect the rear main seal, get some rtv silicone gasket maker and a long stick or rod and goop some in there as best you can.
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
06-06-2003, 02:49 PM | #4 |
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Location: Downers Grove, IL
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My guesses are the PCV valve and valve covers gaskets. 5.0's are notorious for leaky rear main seals, valve covers, and rear main seal gaskets. This is what is involved in buying an older used car. When I bought mine I knew I was going to go threw it. Just gives me an excuse to put a better part on. ~Brian
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1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59 |
06-06-2003, 03:18 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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Check the easist thing first - PCV valve. I had the same oil leak before and thought it was the rear main seal. It ended up being the lower intake manifold gasket. I used that crap cork **** that comes in the gasket kits. It soaks up oil and then leaks. Use RTV. Just buy a 12 pack and start turning those wrenches.
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06-06-2003, 05:21 PM | #6 |
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i wish i could do this crap myself, i am going to my mechanics tonight at 8:00 to see if he can see where it is coming from. any ideas on what to expect as far as labor prices for repair on each of the aforementioned?
main seal? intake? valve covers? thanks, I am really upset about this. the motor was rebuilt about 6000 miles ago (supposedly)
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
06-07-2003, 09:47 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Downers Grove, IL
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Sorry, can't help you with prices, a mechanic has never touched my car. I just can't trust them with all the stories I hear and I love workin on my car. ~Brian
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1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59 |
06-07-2003, 10:40 AM | #8 |
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Good news- I went to themechanic last night and discovered what it was. apparently he took off the breather piece thingy from the pcv vavle hose and connected it to the place where 4 other hoses are connected (forget the name). he thought it would help with blowing less oil. apparently it created such a vacuum that it was sucking it into the throttle bodyand dripping where the cold air induction meetes the TB under neath there. then dropping onto the throttle cable plate thing. so, fo rnow, we unhooked the line and put the breather back on where the pcv valve is. he is going to think of a way to redo it so that there is less vacuum or something like that (make up a new tree)
so it was nothing major, however i do have a rear main seal leak that is minor and i dont need to worry about it he said! thanks for all replies, any ideas as to what he means by making up a new tree for the vacuum lines? thanks
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
06-09-2003, 06:39 AM | #9 |
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Posts: 158
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I've been told that a rear main seal leak will mess up your clutch.
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06-09-2003, 10:11 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Downers Grove, IL
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I know first hand it can make a good clutch slip sometimes. When I put my new clutch in, a new rear main is going in. ~Brian
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1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59 |
06-09-2003, 12:55 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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You should buy a hanes or chilton's manual, a decent set of tools from Sears and do the topside work yourself. I didn't know anything about cars when I bought my stang. I was broke and had no choice but to learn. Doing the intake and valve covers isn't that bad for a beginner. We can help you if you have any questions. Being a shade tree mechanic is almost a pre-requisite to owning a used Mustang. You won't learn it all at once, but over time you'll be happy that you learn this practicle skill. All cars pretty much work the same, so what you learn now on the mustang which is easy to work on will stay with you forever. Good Luck. I hate to say it, but your mechanic sounds like a hacker.
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06-10-2003, 10:37 AM | #12 |
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thanks for all replies. my mechanic is actually awesome. i go to him becasue he is so cheap and knows pretyy much everything about cars (except the pressure problem i had) Plus, he charges like less than half of a shop to do it. He has a regular job during the day and does this on the side. He used to build race cars for his brother and race them on dirt. I had the right upper tie rod replaced, an electric fan installed, timing changed, and somthing else can't remember for 130 bucks including parts. i gave him like 150 anyways. Only bad part is that he keep sthe car for a few days while workin between his job and that!
as for doin it myself, I should start trying that, but it is hard to find certain parts of the car if you dont know what they look like. for example, starter and fuel pump relay switch. 2 simple things, but wouldnt know where to find them or what they look like. i could always go to the shop, get an estimate, then email how to do it here and then try it. Maybe i will next major problem! Thanks-
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
06-10-2003, 02:28 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Ontario canada
Posts: 446
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well then the big thing to do is ask him to let you know when ever he is working on your car so you can drop by and watch ask questions and learn I never just fix friends cars I make them help or it doesnt get done.
when i go in for an alignment or anything i cant do i at home I stay and watch and most of the time the mechanic will ask me about the car and when he finds out ive done most of the work he will take better care while he's working on it the cars getting painted this summer and i hope to learn alot about painting for $5000.00 i hope to learn alot.
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89 with 331 t3'/t4 hybrids. upr Suspention worked out finnaly . 9.89 144 mph . |
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