vert ?

chatcher · 06-03-2004, 04:23 PM

i am picking up my first convertible fox car tomorrow and was just wondering before i hand over the cash if there are any areas that i should give a good look at before the sale i have seen pics over email but will see it in person for the first time tomorrow i have owned three hatchbacks so i am familar with the car in general but im sure there is something i may over look having never owned a vert before any comments are greatly app

thanks
chris

aar0s · 06-03-2004, 05:21 PM

make sure the top works without hesitation, if posible take out the back seat and check for leaking pump and rams. check the seals around the top.

DaTank · 06-03-2004, 06:24 PM

Make sure vert. motor is good. You didn't say what year the car was, but mine went out after about 9 years. The new ones are pretty expensive, and a used, rebuilt, one I picked up was bad and I had to take it back. I still haven't replaced it.
Mine has also started to leak where the corners of the top and corners of the windshield meet. I did replace my top in 99'. It was starting to tear where the creases were. May want to look at them real good. That's all I can think of right now.
Good luck,
Brad

chatcher · 06-03-2004, 07:06 PM

first thanks for the quick replies and also with the motor if its leaking will it be completely apparant apon inspection one more thing it needs a new top which doesent seem to be too expensive to buy but i have never put one on before are there any special tools i will need

again
thanks

jimdrechsler · 06-03-2004, 08:28 PM

i would check to see how much rain/water from washing gets in there from a car wash or washing it with a hose. my seals were bad on my old one. Also check to see if the two hooks up front that hold the top in place work properly. i had to add paper in mine to make it work right! any rips on side by quarter window, and see how the back window is (leaks rips etc). it should be glass!

aar0s · 06-03-2004, 10:34 PM

no you will have to take the back seat out to check the pump, push down and back on the corners of the seat and the back just slides down. its harder to put back in than to take out. as far as replaceing the top you will probably have to have a shop do it that will set you back about 1000 depending on the shop. sometimes you can save a little by supplying the top yourself.

DaTank · 06-03-2004, 10:55 PM

Oh ya, jim..... reminded me, I had to replace one of my hooks because it broke on me. That was about 300 dollars

I also had someone replace my top for about 500 dollars with a five year warranty.
Brad

ols0051 · 06-04-2004, 06:01 AM

You can see the pump from the trunk. And inspect the rams from the inside looking down from the top frame. I would try to get a look at the point were the rams connect to the top frame. It seems like a weak point (mine broke both sides). As these cars age I would expect these problems though. All depends on the price your paying. Replacement parts are not too bad if you shop around.(ebay). As far as wind noise "get a loud exhaust to get rid of that".

tmoss · 06-04-2004, 07:33 AM

Convertibles NEED subframes. Without them the door hinges take a lot of flexing and the hinges get loose and sloppy - open the door and pick up on the end of the door to see how much slop there is in the doors. My hinges were SO bad that the steel hinge at the bushing was worn to the point that a hinge kit (new bushings an pins) would not fix them.

Hozer 88GTConv · 06-04-2004, 07:55 PM

You can shine a decent light down each side of the top well and see if the top seals of the cylinders are leaking. The nylon bushings that support each cylinder are easily seen too.
I would cycle the top several times, that is because if the guy has a leak, he may just top it off and hope you don't cycle it too many times.
A slow leak won't make itself known for sometime. Actuate each top latch checking for binding. Check the roller pins that hold the j-hook on the latch. This is a high failure rate point on the latch. If they fail, the j-hook loses its spring and won't seal well.
Check the top pads inside of the top and look for rubbing/chafing spots where the linkage may be coming into contact with the top.
Examine the weatherstriping, although it will most assuredley have some dry-rot issues, check the fitment at the joint of the quarter-glass and window. Big leak area. Check for fitment seal at the top window too. Any gap and you get wet.
Welcome to the club...

chatcher · 06-05-2004, 12:55 PM

well i just wanted to let you all know i bought the car the car was a little beat up but i got it for 2500 which i couldnt pass up its a 91 lx with 120k which scared me at first but i drove the car home yesterday from 8 hours away at an average speed of 75mph and it didnt use any oil and it ran great i will post pics as soon as i can along with a ton of ?'s as i begin my restoration of the car and thanks again for all your help thus far

chatcher · 06-06-2004, 11:34 AM

heres a pic

Hozer 88GTConv · 06-06-2004, 11:36 AM

Looks like a great sleeper!

jimdrechsler · 06-06-2004, 01:20 PM

wow, looks sweet fro 2500. looks like my old 89!

tmoss · 06-07-2004, 07:12 AM

Doesn't look rough in the pic. Congrats. My short block has 193,000 miles on it and it still runs great and gives 145-150 psi cranking pressure.

06-03-2004, 04:23 PM	#1
chatcher Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: butler pa Posts: 303	vert ? i am picking up my first convertible fox car tomorrow and was just wondering before i hand over the cash if there are any areas that i should give a good look at before the sale i have seen pics over email but will see it in person for the first time tomorrow i have owned three hatchbacks so i am familar with the car in general but im sure there is something i may over look having never owned a vert before any comments are greatly app thanks chris __________________ 92lx wannabe saleen

06-03-2004, 05:21 PM	#2
aar0s Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: southern Illinois Posts: 312	make sure the top works without hesitation, if posible take out the back seat and check for leaking pump and rams. check the seals around the top. __________________ 88 gt convertable =-= cobra intake, accufab 65 mm tb headers alum underdrives steeda alum.lca's, springs, c/c plates kyb struts 230 hp to da wheels http://www.cybersteed.freeservers.com

06-03-2004, 06:24 PM	#3
DaTank Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: washington state Posts: 78	Make sure vert. motor is good. You didn't say what year the car was, but mine went out after about 9 years. The new ones are pretty expensive, and a used, rebuilt, one I picked up was bad and I had to take it back. I still haven't replaced it. Mine has also started to leak where the corners of the top and corners of the windshield meet. I did replace my top in 99'. It was starting to tear where the creases were. May want to look at them real good. That's all I can think of right now. Good luck, Brad __________________ 1991 Mustang GT Conv. K&N air filter, Cobra manifold, 65mm TB, Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 180 thermo., Mac headers, High flow H-pipe, Force II W/2 chamber Flowmaster, Hurst Shifter, 3.55 gears, subframes

06-03-2004, 07:06 PM	#4
chatcher Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: butler pa Posts: 303	first thanks for the quick replies and also with the motor if its leaking will it be completely apparant apon inspection one more thing it needs a new top which doesent seem to be too expensive to buy but i have never put one on before are there any special tools i will need again thanks __________________ 92lx wannabe saleen

06-03-2004, 08:28 PM	#5
jimdrechsler Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 167	i would check to see how much rain/water from washing gets in there from a car wash or washing it with a hose. my seals were bad on my old one. Also check to see if the two hooks up front that hold the top in place work properly. i had to add paper in mine to make it work right! any rips on side by quarter window, and see how the back window is (leaks rips etc). it should be glass! __________________ OLD CAR-89 lx convt- Flowtech II headers, H-pipe, 2 1/2 "flowmasters- pulleys- 3.73's, ripper shifter- ram air- Best 1/4 mile time- a measley 14.2 at 98.6 PRESENT CAR- 90 LX BBK long tubes, h-pipe with cats, flowmasters. 3.55's holley systemax II kit- 70 mm TB 30#injectors, jacobs ignition, black magic fan, 180 thermostat, 75 shot of NOS- NITTO DR'S STREET TIRE BEST RUNS 1/4 mile13.2 @112 w/ NOS 2.17 60' 13.5 @103 2.1 60' *new time with Dr's 12.8 at 111 w/ 75 shot

06-03-2004, 10:34 PM	#6
aar0s Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: southern Illinois Posts: 312	no you will have to take the back seat out to check the pump, push down and back on the corners of the seat and the back just slides down. its harder to put back in than to take out. as far as replaceing the top you will probably have to have a shop do it that will set you back about 1000 depending on the shop. sometimes you can save a little by supplying the top yourself. __________________ 88 gt convertable =-= cobra intake, accufab 65 mm tb headers alum underdrives steeda alum.lca's, springs, c/c plates kyb struts 230 hp to da wheels http://www.cybersteed.freeservers.com

06-03-2004, 10:55 PM	#7
DaTank Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: washington state Posts: 78	Oh ya, jim..... reminded me, I had to replace one of my hooks because it broke on me. That was about 300 dollars I also had someone replace my top for about 500 dollars with a five year warranty. Brad __________________ 1991 Mustang GT Conv. K&N air filter, Cobra manifold, 65mm TB, Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 180 thermo., Mac headers, High flow H-pipe, Force II W/2 chamber Flowmaster, Hurst Shifter, 3.55 gears, subframes

06-04-2004, 06:01 AM	#8
ols0051 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: cent.wis Posts: 203	You can see the pump from the trunk. And inspect the rams from the inside looking down from the top frame. I would try to get a look at the point were the rams connect to the top frame. It seems like a weak point (mine broke both sides). As these cars age I would expect these problems though. All depends on the price your paying. Replacement parts are not too bad if you shop around.(ebay). As far as wind noise "get a loud exhaust to get rid of that".

06-04-2004, 07:33 AM	#9
tmoss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 634	Convertibles NEED subframes. Without them the door hinges take a lot of flexing and the hinges get loose and sloppy - open the door and pick up on the end of the door to see how much slop there is in the doors. My hinges were SO bad that the steel hinge at the bushing was worn to the point that a hinge kit (new bushings an pins) would not fix them. __________________ Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/

06-04-2004, 07:55 PM	#10
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	vert You can shine a decent light down each side of the top well and see if the top seals of the cylinders are leaking. The nylon bushings that support each cylinder are easily seen too. I would cycle the top several times, that is because if the guy has a leak, he may just top it off and hope you don't cycle it too many times. A slow leak won't make itself known for sometime. Actuate each top latch checking for binding. Check the roller pins that hold the j-hook on the latch. This is a high failure rate point on the latch. If they fail, the j-hook loses its spring and won't seal well. Check the top pads inside of the top and look for rubbing/chafing spots where the linkage may be coming into contact with the top. Examine the weatherstriping, although it will most assuredley have some dry-rot issues, check the fitment at the joint of the quarter-glass and window. Big leak area. Check for fitment seal at the top window too. Any gap and you get wet. Welcome to the club... __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

06-05-2004, 12:55 PM	#11
chatcher Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: butler pa Posts: 303	well i just wanted to let you all know i bought the car the car was a little beat up but i got it for 2500 which i couldnt pass up its a 91 lx with 120k which scared me at first but i drove the car home yesterday from 8 hours away at an average speed of 75mph and it didnt use any oil and it ran great i will post pics as soon as i can along with a ton of ?'s as i begin my restoration of the car and thanks again for all your help thus far __________________ 92lx wannabe saleen

06-06-2004, 11:36 AM	#13
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	great... Looks like a great sleeper! __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

06-06-2004, 01:20 PM	#14
jimdrechsler Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 167	wow, looks sweet fro 2500. looks like my old 89! __________________ OLD CAR-89 lx convt- Flowtech II headers, H-pipe, 2 1/2 "flowmasters- pulleys- 3.73's, ripper shifter- ram air- Best 1/4 mile time- a measley 14.2 at 98.6 PRESENT CAR- 90 LX BBK long tubes, h-pipe with cats, flowmasters. 3.55's holley systemax II kit- 70 mm TB 30#injectors, jacobs ignition, black magic fan, 180 thermostat, 75 shot of NOS- NITTO DR'S STREET TIRE BEST RUNS 1/4 mile13.2 @112 w/ NOS 2.17 60' 13.5 @103 2.1 60' *new time with Dr's 12.8 at 111 w/ 75 shot

06-07-2004, 07:12 AM	#15
tmoss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Saint Louis, MO Posts: 634	Doesn't look rough in the pic. Congrats. My short block has 193,000 miles on it and it still runs great and gives 145-150 psi cranking pressure. __________________ Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
SN95 vert top seals	Lethal5Oh	Windsor Power	0	07-18-2004 10:18 PM
4 banger springs in a vert? Dumb or no?	tireburner163	Windsor Power	6	03-03-2003 07:12 PM
Brake mods ( and other first mods) for a 98 Vert	Chevyguy	Modular Madness	11	09-19-2002 10:03 AM
Did MM send me the wrong H&R SuperSport Springs for my '98 GT 'vert?	GaryDawg	Modular Madness	2	08-05-2002 02:03 PM
Are there any drawbacks to owning/ building up a vert' over a hatchback or notch	Kamaro Killer	Windsor Power	5	07-18-2002 12:28 PM