Stinking Aluminum GT Pedals

Fox Body · 05-09-2003, 05:34 PM

MAN!!! WHAT'S THE DEAL???? I got 2 out of 4 pedals installed and took about half the day. I could've removed the motor in that amount of time

They look good once on but are really troublesome. I drilled the holes in the clutch pedals. Then tried to tap holes and broke 2 taps (first one was totally my fault, 2nd one was due to a piece of crap tap). What's the deal with the footrest (pedal)?? It seems like it's made out plastic but the stinking drill bit won't drill through it. I had less trouble with the medal clutch pedal.

Any tips, guys on installing this crap? I still got 2 more to install-- the brake pedal and footrest pedal. Any advice is appreciated.

82 GT · 05-09-2003, 09:35 PM

This might sound like a dumb question but..How sharp are your drill bits?

Fox Body · 05-11-2003, 03:36 PM

Naaw. That's not a dumb question. I used the bit they supplied with the pedals. It may be a little dull, i dunno....

I said "screw it" and bought a titanium bit. We'll see how the pedals hold up to this

.

Thanks for replying.

Dark_5.0 · 05-12-2003, 01:35 PM

I know what you are going through I had those pedals on my 88GT and they sucked to install

Fox Body · 05-12-2003, 04:49 PM

Well, I'm glad someone else feels my pain.

I broke the another tap!!!! That's three now.

(<----delirious with rage). Guess WD-40 ain't enough. Guess I need some cutting oil. My wonderful pedals didn't come with instructions. Guess they feel all their customers should already know everything about tapping. I guess I'm just an imbecile. I also had to buy a handle to turn the tap with (they supply tap and dull drill bit

)

Anyway, i finished the last real pedal with the broken taps (can't keep a man down!!!). Now all I have is the footrest pedal (which was, BTW, backed by metal). Don't even know if I"m gonna bother with it.

Oh and as for the Titanium bit. WONDERFUL. It is awesome, it cuts through the metal just about as it would cut through wood.

Now that I've got the accelerator, brake and clutch pedal together, I noticed that I'm having a problem of too close clearance between the brake and the gas so if I press the brake, I'm almost pressing the gas too b/c the are both wide pedals. I may have to offset the gas pedal or just take it off.

I'm not yet sure if this was even worth the effort....

Dark_5.0 · 05-12-2003, 04:54 PM

I removed the one for that gas pedal for that exact reason. I kept tapping the break when I would shift

They suck balls

..............I ended up removing all of them cause it didnt look right with the gas pedal missing.

I will never make the aluminum pedal cover mistake again.

Fox Body · 05-12-2003, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dark_5.0
I removed the one for that gas pedal for that exact reason. I kept tapping the break when I would shift

They suck balls ..............I ended up removing all of them cause it didnt look right with the gas pedal missing.

I will never make the aluminum pedal cover mistake again.

Man, well, I really just got them cause I was in shopping mode at FFW in Commerce, GA and I bought the MAC CAI kit (which was EASY, to say the least) to install.

I may one day also be saying "I will never make the aluminum pedal cover mistake again."

Gonna ride them out for a week or 2 and give them a chance. Try to work something out (since I put all that stinking time into it.) Thanks again for the empathy.

WHo knows, I may end up doing the same thing you did with them.

05-09-2003, 05:34 PM	#1
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Stinking Aluminum GT Pedals MAN!!! WHAT'S THE DEAL???? I got 2 out of 4 pedals installed and took about half the day. I could've removed the motor in that amount of time They look good once on but are really troublesome. I drilled the holes in the clutch pedals. Then tried to tap holes and broke 2 taps (first one was totally my fault, 2nd one was due to a piece of crap tap). What's the deal with the footrest (pedal)?? It seems like it's made out plastic but the stinking drill bit won't drill through it. I had less trouble with the medal clutch pedal. Any tips, guys on installing this crap? I still got 2 more to install-- the brake pedal and footrest pedal. Any advice is appreciated. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

05-09-2003, 09:35 PM	#2
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	This might sound like a dumb question but..How sharp are your drill bits? __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

05-11-2003, 03:36 PM	#3
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Naaw. That's not a dumb question. I used the bit they supplied with the pedals. It may be a little dull, i dunno.... I said "screw it" and bought a titanium bit. We'll see how the pedals hold up to this . Thanks for replying. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

05-12-2003, 01:35 PM	#4
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	I know what you are going through I had those pedals on my 88GT and they sucked to install __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

05-12-2003, 04:49 PM	#5
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Well, I'm glad someone else feels my pain. I broke the another tap!!!! That's three now. (<----delirious with rage). Guess WD-40 ain't enough. Guess I need some cutting oil. My wonderful pedals didn't come with instructions. Guess they feel all their customers should already know everything about tapping. I guess I'm just an imbecile. I also had to buy a handle to turn the tap with (they supply tap and dull drill bit ) Anyway, i finished the last real pedal with the broken taps (can't keep a man down!!!). Now all I have is the footrest pedal (which was, BTW, backed by metal). Don't even know if I"m gonna bother with it. Oh and as for the Titanium bit. WONDERFUL. It is awesome, it cuts through the metal just about as it would cut through wood. Now that I've got the accelerator, brake and clutch pedal together, I noticed that I'm having a problem of too close clearance between the brake and the gas so if I press the brake, I'm almost pressing the gas too b/c the are both wide pedals. I may have to offset the gas pedal or just take it off. I'm not yet sure if this was even worth the effort.... __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

05-12-2003, 04:54 PM	#6
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	I removed the one for that gas pedal for that exact reason. I kept tapping the break when I would shift They suck balls ..............I ended up removing all of them cause it didnt look right with the gas pedal missing. I will never make the aluminum pedal cover mistake again. __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

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