Major problems

bigred90gt · 07-26-2002, 12:59 PM

I've got big problems and don't know where to start. At low rpm's, and sometimes all the way through the rpm range, the car putters like it is misfiring. I thought it might be the timing, so I went to have it adjusted. When they adjusted it, I hit the gas, and it started popping(like a backfire) sporadically. The guy put the timing back where it was and said I have bigger problems. Lot of help there. When I pull the plug out to set the timing it is fine, but when the plug is back in that is when it gets really bad. Once the car gets warmed up, the engine starts to sputter at idle and dies. When stopping at a redlight, I have to put it in neutral and ride the brake with my left foot and the throttle with my right to keep it from dying. When I try to re-start it, it acts like it doesn't want to turn over. If i stay in the starter, it'll crank, eventually, almost like a dying battery. Also, when I get on it, the rpm's increase, alot faster that the speed. At idle, it sounds like something is rattling around in the tranny. But when I push the clutch in, it stops??? I have got to do something, my truck is missing 1st and 2nd gear and I have had to drive my mustang as a dialy driver. If it goes, I'll be up a creek without a paddle. Please help, I'm at a deadend.

I have already changed the plugs, cap and rotor, and the O2 sensors. That did nothing. My check engine light won't go off either. When I replaced the O2 sensors, I disconnected the battery for 20 min's and when I cranked it back up, the light was still on.

Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have a feeling it is just a matter of time before I am without a ride.
Thanks in advance for your help!!!

chris91LX · 07-26-2002, 02:45 PM

What did you do to the car before this started happening? Did this just start up out of the blue?

I would check the timing again, are you sure the guy you went to knew what he was doing? Have you pulled the distributor lately, you might have put it back in wrong. Check the TFI module on the distributor, I know there was a problem with them that Ford had a recall on. Have you checked all the ignition connections and ground to be sure it's all tight?

Have you checked the fuel filter? What's your fuel pressure at?

jimberg · 07-26-2002, 03:04 PM

READ YOUR CODES!!!! That's why the MIL (Check engine light) exists. All you need is a paper clip.

Here's a picture I hijacked from Corral.net:

You don't need the voltmeter. Just jumper the gray connector depicted as that little rectangle jumpered to the connector in the upper right bevel corner. The double-headed arrow is the paper clip. I just keep a wire with a spade connector on each end in my glove box to do this on the road.

bigred90gt · 07-26-2002, 03:37 PM

The guy I went to was at a local speed shop that does mostly fox bodies. I have never pulled the distributor off the motor. The ignition is grounded to the neg side of the battery(per the instructions that came with it). Everything just started out of the blue one day. It started off just feeling like it was misfiring at low RPM's. It has progressively gotten worse. I went as far as to disconnect the MSD to make sure that it wasn't the problem. That did nothing. This may sound like a dumb question but, where and what exactly is the tfi module? I got a letter about the recall, but my car did not fit into the parameters of the service, too many miles, ect. How do you check the fuel pressure? Where can I get a code scanner and about how much are they? If I get one, I'll post the codes. I haven't done anything with the fuel filter, but I'll replace it anyway, it probably needs it even if that is not the problem. Once again thanks for the suggestions.

Could it be the coil? Just a thought.

jimberg · 07-26-2002, 03:59 PM

You only need a paper clip as a code scanner. They're probably less than a penny. That is where I would start.

Here's a more extensive article.

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html

DRASTiK · 07-26-2002, 04:16 PM

sounds like you may have multiple problems. Scan the codes for clues, but if that doesn't help, then the rattling could be your throw out bearing and the sputtering could be your MAF.

Definately scan the codes before you go buying sensors as they can get expensive fast.

bigred90gt · 07-26-2002, 04:24 PM

Jimberg, thanks for the info. I'll check them after work and post the results either tomorrow or first thing monday morning. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

bigred90gt · 07-28-2002, 05:04 PM

I have the results from scanning the codes. They are as follows:
KOEO codes: 22, 85
Continuous memory: 22, 66
While running the KOER test, it gave me the engine Id. pulse. Then as per the given instructions, I turned the wheel and pressed the brake. About 8 seconds later, the rpm's slowly increased from about 900 to about 1200. They held at 1200 for about 5 seconds and then the opil pressure dropped and about 2 sec later, the engine died, When I cranked it back up, it gave me codes 12, 33, 18. Any translations would be greatly appreciated.
Once again, thanks for all your help.

PKRWUD · 07-28-2002, 11:29 PM

Okay. First question:

Is the SPOUT connector plugged in?

Second, do you still have the evap container hooked up?

The vacuum hose that goes to the EGR valve is probably damaged. Inspect it very closely for cracks or tears, and obstructions.

If the hose is good, start the engine with a vacuum pump attached to the EGR, and apply 10" of vacuum. The engine should either stall, or stumble heavily. If it doesn't, replace the EGR valve.

Do/answer these, and we'll go from there.

Take care,
~Chris

bigred90gt · 07-29-2002, 09:23 AM

I'm just now, within the last 6 months, getting into the engine part of my car, so please bare with me. What and where exactly are is the SPOUT connector? I'll check and see about the evap cont. and the vacuum hose. I am pretty sure my mothers boyfriend has a vacuum pump, so I'll do the test on the next day that I have, probably Thursday, and post the results. Do you know about how much a new EGR valve cost? Overtime got cut out and I'm on a very tight budget. Thanks for the help.

jimberg · 07-29-2002, 09:58 AM

Bigred90gt,

Your codes are as follows:

KOEO:

22 - MAP/BP out of Self-Test range

In your case, it's BP (Barometric Pressure). This sensor is mounted to the firewall just to the left of the main vacuum tree. It helps measure the amount of air going to your engine. It's a critical component and should probably be replaced.

85 - Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure

The canister is that black box behind the passenger side headlight. It's kind of under the air box. It is a charcoal canister that catches excess fuel vapor from the fuel tank and then releases it to the intake manifold to be burned.

Continuous Codes

22 - Same as above.

66 - Mass Air Flow sensor circuit below minimum voltage (Mass Air equipped cars only)

The MAF sensor isn't working correctly for some reason. I'd start with the BP sensor since it may be causing this code.

KOER:

12 - Cannot control RPM during Self-Test high RPM check

The idle air control solenoid (cylindrical thing on front of throttle body) is not working, or a result of the stall during the KOER test.

33 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve opening not detected (SONIC)

The computer tried to open the EGR valve and couldn't.

18 - SPOUT circuit open

The SPOUT connector is missing. It's a gray jumper that goes into a plug that is hanging off one of the wires that goes to the TFI module on the side of the distributor.

bigred90gt · 07-29-2002, 10:40 PM

I checked the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and couldn't see anything wrong with it. I'll probably replace it anyways. Are the EGR valve and Idl air control solenoid expensive? I might just buy new ones this weekend. Lots more work at the restaurant. The SPOUT connector is plugged in. When I had it out to move the timing, the engine was idling fine. When I plugged it back in, that is when it started to stumble. This was today. I had planned to upgrade my MAF sensor to about a 76 mm anyways. If I am going to do this, should I just go ahead and get 24# injectors and a MAF calibrated accordingly? I don't plan on any power adders for a while. At least not until this car can be a strip only car. I figure I might as well replace the BP sensor while I'm at it. Can you get the SPOUT connector and BP sensor at an autoparts store or these dealer items?
PKRWUD, if the evap container is the canister jimberg speaks of, then, yes it is hooked up. The only problem I could see with the vacuum hose is that it was broken at one time, so there is a "splice" in it. The "spllice" is a piece of rubber tubing slightly larger that the vacuum hose approximately 3" long slipped over the ends of each half.
jimberg, What does it mean by canister circut failure? Can you replace the canister for this problem??? How important is this canister?
Once again, I can't thank you guys enough. I would be really broke if I had to take this to a shop. As I said earlier, I'll check the vacuum with the pump probably thursday and get back with y'all.

bigred90gt · 08-02-2002, 08:11 AM

I finally checked the vacuum on the EGR valve. I pulled about 8" and the diaphram inside popped, as if it were stuck. When the diaphram popped, the vacuum dropped to about 5" and the motor started stumbling slightly. I pulled the rest of the way to 10" and it stumbled just a bit more. It didn't act as if it wanted to die, it just sounded like a really lopey engine. The car is running a little better, but it still feels like it has no power. There is also a rattle coming from around the clutch area now during acceleration. My car is falling apart and I am at a dead end road.
As I asked earlier, what does it mean by canister circuit failure? Is there an electrical circuit that might be bad? Can you replace the canister? It is my understanding that you have to correct the KOEO codes to get an accurate reading on the KOER test. Is this true? Thankis for all the responses.

jimberg · 08-02-2002, 08:22 AM

A lot of our vacuum sources are controlled by a solenoid. The EGR valve and air pump lines are controlled by the solenoids mounted on the backside of the passenger strut tower. The canister purge solenoid is probably located on the canister itself.

Make sure that when the car is at idle that there is no vacuum present in the line going to the EGR valve. The solenoid should be closed. If there is vacuum, you either have the wrong vacuum line hooked up, or your solenoid is faulty. It's possible that you could accidently mix up the vacuum line to the FPR and the EGR valve which would mean that fuel pressure wouldn't change with vacuum like it should and that the EGR would be stuck open. The computer is good enough, by the way, to somewhat compensate for a stuck open EGR.

You may have an electrical issue which is causing all of the failures. Chris is probably a better person to help you work through those issues, though.

PKRWUD · 08-02-2002, 08:26 AM

The EGR valve needs to be cleaned or replaced, depending on your budget. As far as the canister circuit, follow the vacuum hose to the canister, and inline you will find a little solenoid. Unplug it, and set your DMM to ohms on the 200 scale. Measure the resistance at the solenoid. It should be between 40-90 ohms. If it isn't, replace it. If it tests good, clean the connector pins and reattach. Disconnect the neg battery cable, turn on the headlights for 10 minutes, reattach the battery cable, and run codes again.

Post your results.

Take care,
~Chris

bigred90gt · 08-10-2002, 04:51 PM

Here is the thread I referred to. Hope this helps.

PKRWUD · 08-10-2002, 05:05 PM

What a headache! Did you ever clean/replace the EGR valve? Did you ever test the solenoid I asked you to in my last post?

Run KOEO codes and let's see what it says.

Take care,
~Chris

bigred90gt · 08-13-2002, 08:57 AM

Right now, I have the upper intake off to clean it. When I get it put back together, I'll run the codes and post them. I pulled the egr valve off and cleaned it with carb/choke cleaner. The cone shaped peice that moves with the diaphram, is warped on the end. Is this a bad thing? I plan to put it back together sometime this week. I am wondering if I should go ahead and buy a new egr valve while it is apart. Could the electrical connector in the back of the egr valve be bad? When you buy the egr valve, does it come with a new electrical connector, or do you have to transfer the existing one?
Thanks for the help.
Caymon

bigred90gt · 08-14-2002, 11:42 AM

Ya know, I don't know why I didn't think to mention this when I wrote the last post, but, before I took the intake off, this is after it died with a bang the other day, I cranked it up and it idled fine. I wanted to see if it would last, so I took off down the street, and got about 7 houses down and it started acting like it wanted to die again, so I turned around and barely made it back home. I just thought that was strange, because of the way it died the other day and I couldn't get it to do anything. Maybe this will help. As soon as I get it put back together, I'll run the codes again and post the results.

07-26-2002, 12:59 PM	#1
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Major problems I've got big problems and don't know where to start. At low rpm's, and sometimes all the way through the rpm range, the car putters like it is misfiring. I thought it might be the timing, so I went to have it adjusted. When they adjusted it, I hit the gas, and it started popping(like a backfire) sporadically. The guy put the timing back where it was and said I have bigger problems. Lot of help there. When I pull the plug out to set the timing it is fine, but when the plug is back in that is when it gets really bad. Once the car gets warmed up, the engine starts to sputter at idle and dies. When stopping at a redlight, I have to put it in neutral and ride the brake with my left foot and the throttle with my right to keep it from dying. When I try to re-start it, it acts like it doesn't want to turn over. If i stay in the starter, it'll crank, eventually, almost like a dying battery. Also, when I get on it, the rpm's increase, alot faster that the speed. At idle, it sounds like something is rattling around in the tranny. But when I push the clutch in, it stops??? I have got to do something, my truck is missing 1st and 2nd gear and I have had to drive my mustang as a dialy driver. If it goes, I'll be up a creek without a paddle. Please help, I'm at a deadend. I have already changed the plugs, cap and rotor, and the O2 sensors. That did nothing. My check engine light won't go off either. When I replaced the O2 sensors, I disconnected the battery for 20 min's and when I cranked it back up, the light was still on. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have a feeling it is just a matter of time before I am without a ride. Thanks in advance for your help!!! __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

07-26-2002, 02:45 PM	#2
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	What did you do to the car before this started happening? Did this just start up out of the blue? I would check the timing again, are you sure the guy you went to knew what he was doing? Have you pulled the distributor lately, you might have put it back in wrong. Check the TFI module on the distributor, I know there was a problem with them that Ford had a recall on. Have you checked all the ignition connections and ground to be sure it's all tight? Have you checked the fuel filter? What's your fuel pressure at? __________________ My Ford Club http://www.midwestfords.org/ Best time N/A 12.9 @ 107 1.711 60' 125 shot - 12.04 @ 113 1.59 60'

07-26-2002, 03:04 PM	#3
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	READ YOUR CODES!!!! That's why the MIL (Check engine light) exists. All you need is a paper clip. Here's a picture I hijacked from Corral.net: You don't need the voltmeter. Just jumper the gray connector depicted as that little rectangle jumpered to the connector in the upper right bevel corner. The double-headed arrow is the paper clip. I just keep a wire with a spade connector on each end in my glove box to do this on the road. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-26-2002, 03:37 PM	#4
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	The guy I went to was at a local speed shop that does mostly fox bodies. I have never pulled the distributor off the motor. The ignition is grounded to the neg side of the battery(per the instructions that came with it). Everything just started out of the blue one day. It started off just feeling like it was misfiring at low RPM's. It has progressively gotten worse. I went as far as to disconnect the MSD to make sure that it wasn't the problem. That did nothing. This may sound like a dumb question but, where and what exactly is the tfi module? I got a letter about the recall, but my car did not fit into the parameters of the service, too many miles, ect. How do you check the fuel pressure? Where can I get a code scanner and about how much are they? If I get one, I'll post the codes. I haven't done anything with the fuel filter, but I'll replace it anyway, it probably needs it even if that is not the problem. Once again thanks for the suggestions. Could it be the coil? Just a thought. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

07-26-2002, 03:59 PM	#5
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	You only need a paper clip as a code scanner. They're probably less than a penny. That is where I would start. Here's a more extensive article. http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-26-2002, 04:16 PM	#6
DRASTiK Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Yuma, AZ Posts: 536	sounds like you may have multiple problems. Scan the codes for clues, but if that doesn't help, then the rattling could be your throw out bearing and the sputtering could be your MAF. Definately scan the codes before you go buying sensors as they can get expensive fast. __________________ Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!!

07-26-2002, 04:24 PM	#7
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Jimberg, thanks for the info. I'll check them after work and post the results either tomorrow or first thing monday morning. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

07-28-2002, 05:04 PM	#8
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	I have the results from scanning the codes. They are as follows: KOEO codes: 22, 85 Continuous memory: 22, 66 While running the KOER test, it gave me the engine Id. pulse. Then as per the given instructions, I turned the wheel and pressed the brake. About 8 seconds later, the rpm's slowly increased from about 900 to about 1200. They held at 1200 for about 5 seconds and then the opil pressure dropped and about 2 sec later, the engine died, When I cranked it back up, it gave me codes 12, 33, 18. Any translations would be greatly appreciated. Once again, thanks for all your help. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

07-28-2002, 11:29 PM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Okay. First question: Is the SPOUT connector plugged in? Second, do you still have the evap container hooked up? The vacuum hose that goes to the EGR valve is probably damaged. Inspect it very closely for cracks or tears, and obstructions. If the hose is good, start the engine with a vacuum pump attached to the EGR, and apply 10" of vacuum. The engine should either stall, or stumble heavily. If it doesn't, replace the EGR valve. Do/answer these, and we'll go from there. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

07-29-2002, 09:23 AM	#10
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	I'm just now, within the last 6 months, getting into the engine part of my car, so please bare with me. What and where exactly are is the SPOUT connector? I'll check and see about the evap cont. and the vacuum hose. I am pretty sure my mothers boyfriend has a vacuum pump, so I'll do the test on the next day that I have, probably Thursday, and post the results. Do you know about how much a new EGR valve cost? Overtime got cut out and I'm on a very tight budget. Thanks for the help. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

07-29-2002, 09:58 AM	#11
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Bigred90gt, Your codes are as follows: KOEO: 22 - MAP/BP out of Self-Test range In your case, it's BP (Barometric Pressure). This sensor is mounted to the firewall just to the left of the main vacuum tree. It helps measure the amount of air going to your engine. It's a critical component and should probably be replaced. 85 - Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure The canister is that black box behind the passenger side headlight. It's kind of under the air box. It is a charcoal canister that catches excess fuel vapor from the fuel tank and then releases it to the intake manifold to be burned. Continuous Codes 22 - Same as above. 66 - Mass Air Flow sensor circuit below minimum voltage (Mass Air equipped cars only) The MAF sensor isn't working correctly for some reason. I'd start with the BP sensor since it may be causing this code. KOER: 12 - Cannot control RPM during Self-Test high RPM check The idle air control solenoid (cylindrical thing on front of throttle body) is not working, or a result of the stall during the KOER test. 33 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve opening not detected (SONIC) The computer tried to open the EGR valve and couldn't. 18 - SPOUT circuit open The SPOUT connector is missing. It's a gray jumper that goes into a plug that is hanging off one of the wires that goes to the TFI module on the side of the distributor. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-29-2002, 10:40 PM	#12
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	I checked the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and couldn't see anything wrong with it. I'll probably replace it anyways. Are the EGR valve and Idl air control solenoid expensive? I might just buy new ones this weekend. Lots more work at the restaurant. The SPOUT connector is plugged in. When I had it out to move the timing, the engine was idling fine. When I plugged it back in, that is when it started to stumble. This was today. I had planned to upgrade my MAF sensor to about a 76 mm anyways. If I am going to do this, should I just go ahead and get 24# injectors and a MAF calibrated accordingly? I don't plan on any power adders for a while. At least not until this car can be a strip only car. I figure I might as well replace the BP sensor while I'm at it. Can you get the SPOUT connector and BP sensor at an autoparts store or these dealer items? PKRWUD, if the evap container is the canister jimberg speaks of, then, yes it is hooked up. The only problem I could see with the vacuum hose is that it was broken at one time, so there is a "splice" in it. The "spllice" is a piece of rubber tubing slightly larger that the vacuum hose approximately 3" long slipped over the ends of each half. jimberg, What does it mean by canister circut failure? Can you replace the canister for this problem??? How important is this canister? Once again, I can't thank you guys enough. I would be really broke if I had to take this to a shop. As I said earlier, I'll check the vacuum with the pump probably thursday and get back with y'all. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

08-02-2002, 08:11 AM	#13
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	I finally checked the vacuum on the EGR valve. I pulled about 8" and the diaphram inside popped, as if it were stuck. When the diaphram popped, the vacuum dropped to about 5" and the motor started stumbling slightly. I pulled the rest of the way to 10" and it stumbled just a bit more. It didn't act as if it wanted to die, it just sounded like a really lopey engine. The car is running a little better, but it still feels like it has no power. There is also a rattle coming from around the clutch area now during acceleration. My car is falling apart and I am at a dead end road. As I asked earlier, what does it mean by canister circuit failure? Is there an electrical circuit that might be bad? Can you replace the canister? It is my understanding that you have to correct the KOEO codes to get an accurate reading on the KOER test. Is this true? Thankis for all the responses. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

08-02-2002, 08:22 AM	#14
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	A lot of our vacuum sources are controlled by a solenoid. The EGR valve and air pump lines are controlled by the solenoids mounted on the backside of the passenger strut tower. The canister purge solenoid is probably located on the canister itself. Make sure that when the car is at idle that there is no vacuum present in the line going to the EGR valve. The solenoid should be closed. If there is vacuum, you either have the wrong vacuum line hooked up, or your solenoid is faulty. It's possible that you could accidently mix up the vacuum line to the FPR and the EGR valve which would mean that fuel pressure wouldn't change with vacuum like it should and that the EGR would be stuck open. The computer is good enough, by the way, to somewhat compensate for a stuck open EGR. You may have an electrical issue which is causing all of the failures. Chris is probably a better person to help you work through those issues, though. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

08-02-2002, 08:26 AM	#15
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	The EGR valve needs to be cleaned or replaced, depending on your budget. As far as the canister circuit, follow the vacuum hose to the canister, and inline you will find a little solenoid. Unplug it, and set your DMM to ohms on the 200 scale. Measure the resistance at the solenoid. It should be between 40-90 ohms. If it isn't, replace it. If it tests good, clean the connector pins and reattach. Disconnect the neg battery cable, turn on the headlights for 10 minutes, reattach the battery cable, and run codes again. Post your results. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

08-10-2002, 04:51 PM	#16
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Here is the thread Here is the thread I referred to. Hope this helps. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

08-10-2002, 05:05 PM	#17
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	What a headache! Did you ever clean/replace the EGR valve? Did you ever test the solenoid I asked you to in my last post? Run KOEO codes and let's see what it says. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

08-13-2002, 08:57 AM	#18
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Right now, I have the upper intake off to clean it. When I get it put back together, I'll run the codes and post them. I pulled the egr valve off and cleaned it with carb/choke cleaner. The cone shaped peice that moves with the diaphram, is warped on the end. Is this a bad thing? I plan to put it back together sometime this week. I am wondering if I should go ahead and buy a new egr valve while it is apart. Could the electrical connector in the back of the egr valve be bad? When you buy the egr valve, does it come with a new electrical connector, or do you have to transfer the existing one? Thanks for the help. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

08-14-2002, 11:42 AM	#19
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Ya know, I don't know why I didn't think to mention this when I wrote the last post, but, before I took the intake off, this is after it died with a bang the other day, I cranked it up and it idled fine. I wanted to see if it would last, so I took off down the street, and got about 7 houses down and it started acting like it wanted to die again, so I turned around and barely made it back home. I just thought that was strange, because of the way it died the other day and I couldn't get it to do anything. Maybe this will help. As soon as I get it put back together, I'll run the codes again and post the results. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128