Do I have to yank my motor becasue of this!!????

Stang_ROTY · 09-04-2001, 09:34 PM

My engine builder was underneath my car yesterday measuring the distance my crank has moved with a micrometer and it is 4 thouosands over. From what he said the range is from 4-8 thousands and mine is 12 thousands. How bad is that. He suggests I pull the engine and replace the bearings if it gets worse and I want to run it hard. Should I wait for Spring, yank it now, or just leave it. I always like a second opinion. Thanks.

HiFlow5 0 · 09-04-2001, 10:17 PM

sounds like the same problem i had. i decided to yank my motor and just build a whole new one, but u could just replace the bearing which might be cheaper. i just thought new would be better, then a old block and internals which was beat before i bought it. when i found out my bearing were going i drove the old motor pretty hard to see what it could take. i put a heavier oil to help from thining out when it got hot. when it started getting bad it would tick and smell, no to mention the slight oil leak. i drove it about 3 months till i found a beater to drive while i put the new motor in. hope that helps

------------------
89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims
MY89GT

347MOM · 09-04-2001, 11:34 PM

IS'NT YOUR MOTOR PRETTY NEW.

PKRWUD · 09-04-2001, 11:54 PM

.008" is the max. Your engine has less than 200 miles, and you're up to .012"?? How did this come about? Why was your mechanic checking your crankshaft endplay, and better yet, how? Talk to me.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

BilLster · 09-05-2001, 11:09 AM

Dont take this the wrong way man but i would seriously consider a new engine builder. After all of your problems. If I did that work i would be embaressed i would ask you to leave the car and fix it myself for free.

Unless you have loads of money and then i would charge you LoL. again and again untill you didnt come back LoL.

------------------
89 with 395 single stage n2o .garret t3. 373's Suspention worked out finnaly . need cage .

Stang_ROTY · 09-05-2001, 11:26 AM

Chris,

Thanks for replying. I appreciate the help. This is what happened. One day we were talking (he calls me almost daily on the car) and I told him about how the tranny was hot. He then brought up the point of checking the end play and thrust bearing some day. He said he was curious and just wanted to check. So I brought the car over there one day and we found out that the tranny cooler was blocked (brand new) and I have an oil leak coming from the new Canton pan. I thought (and still think) it was the main seal b/c small drip of oil is visible on my bellhousing (wide open type). But there is none on the flywheel or torque convertor. He then got underneath the car with a micrometer and tried to measure from the front of the block. I noticed he was shaking his head as if he couldn't get an accurate measurement and moved to the back of the block. I didn't hear anything from him for a minute or two and then I asked him. He told me "It's .0012, could be worse. I'd tell you not to run the engine down the track if it was closer to .0030" We then looked in the spec book and it said between .004 and .008 for a Ford. This really sucks man. I just don't know how it happened. I bought all of the best parts. I guess it could be worse but I have no garage to be yanking engines in. I'm only 24, I don't own a house yet u know. Should I still be driving it or should I just check after the engine is fully broken.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PKRWUD:
[B].008" is the max. Your engine has less than 200 miles, and you're up to .012"?? How did this come about? Why was your mechanic checking your crankshaft endplay, and better yet, how? Talk to me.

Take care
~Chris

Coupe Devil · 09-05-2001, 01:08 PM

Hey man, not to knock your engine builder butI have NEVER checked my "End Play". I always check the tolerences when first putting a motor together but never after I run it. I've built several motors for drag cars and most especially pulling trucks and never had that problem. We've thrown rods, broke cranks and everything else but there has never been any front to back motion on the crank that I have seen.

This could very well be a problem I should start to investigate for future reference though.

------------------
'93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), 89' 4banger in prep for all out drag car. Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover. Future Mods granatelli lift bars, bbk uppers, Flex-a-lite elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, holley 650 d.p., built c-4 or c-6, e-303, 10 inch wheels in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, pulleys, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, custom headers, rear seat delete, aftermarket front seats, roll cage, ATI p

Stang_ROTY · 09-05-2001, 01:26 PM

He has built many drang engines and several tractor pull/mudd bogg type also. He is very reputable and take a lot of pride in his work. We didn't even talk $$ until everything was running and running good. He thinks I overheated my tranny when my cooler cloggedand that heat had to expand somewhere. He didn't say I can't drive it, but we will check again and if it's worse it has to come out. This is really tough for me to swallow b/c I haven't even taken it down the strip and I just passed emissions, plus I have no where to do the work.

juiceman · 09-05-2001, 08:14 PM

well, although not impossible to hurt the bearing in 200 miles its not likely. prhaps it was due to a mistake by the builder. we are only human. using a micrometer under the car to get end play? sounds a bit wierd to me. most builders use dial gauges mounted to the block then to the crank snout and push/pull on the crank to get an exact measure. have it done right. the worry about it. if its definately out then change the bearing. and hope its not a problem with the crank machining.

go4it · 09-05-2001, 09:34 PM

Stang_ROTY, check this thread out on the corral. It may be of some interest to you.
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthr...threadid=10274

------------------
93GT, S-trim (2.95 pulley), SFMU, Stage 2 TFS TW heads, Stage 2 Cobra intake, AFM powerpipe, PRO-M 75mm massair, 75mm throttle body, 42lb.inj. 1 5/8 headers, 2 1/2 h-pipe and exhaust, 2 chamber Flowmasters, 3.55 gears, Ultradyne cam, Elder.timing gears, Black Magic fan, FMS aluminum radiator, MSD6al/BTM, MSD coil, MSD shift light, subframe connectors, A-pillar gauges, Pro-5.0 shifter, 130amp alt., 73mm calipars, Autometer gauges.

2001 Lightning

2FastLX · 09-06-2001, 01:50 PM

I can't see how he would check endplay with a micrometer unless he was maybe checking from the flywheel to a flange on the engine?? Anyway, I would get a dial indicator and be sure.

------------------
Gunning for 12's!

Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

Stang_ROTY · 09-06-2001, 08:36 PM

2fastlx - We did check it with a dial indicator. I talked to him today and he verified that we did use it. The plan is for me to put more miles on the engine and we'll check again BEFORE I take it down the track. Luckily, I got ahold of my old engine builder today and he said I can pull the engine and store it over the winter in his shop.

go4it - Thanks for the link. I'm surprised that reputable engine builders have problems with their engines, I don't feel so bad now.

2FastLX · 09-07-2001, 05:28 AM

I'm a firm believer in "If you want it done right, do it yourself". I've learned a lot holding to this way of thinking. Yeah, I've faced a sh!tload of problems because of it, but it's been worth it in the end (I guess).

I am no expert engine builder, but I do know if you want to build an engine there are tons of books out there to tell you everything you need to know. The best kind are obviously the ones detailing the build up of Ford specific HiPo engine setups and have step by step type sections in them. But then again, you have to have the tools.

I'm getting ready to undertake a complete build up of a 393 stroker and plan to do as much of the work as I can at the machine shop where I work. It would be killer to be able to say "I built it", rather than "I bought it from DSS"

Good luck on yours Stang_ROTY. I hope it turns out to be OK. And by the way, it's not hard to pull an engine and slap a set of bearings in.

------------------
Gunning for 12's!

Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

2FastLX · 09-07-2001, 06:41 AM

Also, I forgot to mention - I wouldn't put many miles on the engine before checking the end play again. Check it often and at the first sign of it getting worse I'd definately park it. If it were me I would just pull it anyway and see what is going on. No sense in messing up the crank too.

What all is done to the engine as far as mods go? How many miles on the rebuild? Have you pulled the oil filter and checked for particles? Just curious.

------------------
Gunning for 12's!

Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

BilLster · 09-07-2001, 11:26 AM

Stang_ROTY I have been thinking about this for a day now and some thing has been eating at me and now i worked it out.

1.He then brought up the point of checking the end play and thrust bearing some day. He said he was curious and just wanted to check.(maybe he wasnt sure how he had set it)

2.I noticed he was shaking his head as if he couldn't get an accurate measurement and moved to the back of the block. I didn't hear anything from him for a minute or two and then I asked him. He told me "It's .0012, could be worse. I'd tell you not to run the engine down the track if it was closer to .0030" We then looked in the spec book and it said between .004 and .008 for a Ford. (he should of know this or does he mainly do chivey's?)(did he not know this when he assembled it?)

3.I'd tell you not to run the engine down the track if it was closer to .0030 (why that much)

4. End play like that come from am inproperly seated thrust bearing not heat. For the amount of heat your engine saw it wouldnt of diapated enough heat to unseat the front bearing. ( i have seen engines run overheating for days. desiels in the former Yougoslavia that didnt get that much run out and aslo had a Iltis (canadian jeep) that we had to replace the head but the bottom end was OK after three days of running with no rad.)(ok to run over seas but we would of replaced it here.

Since your builder brought it up i would assume he was having doubts about the tolerences himself secondly if I'm checking something i look up the spec first so i have a idea while I'm down there. or if someone else is doing it they dont try the hey your end play is .006 we have to fix that .

bust my .02 cent try checking it yourself or getting someone else to help.

secondly when building an engine get somone who works on that brand not always the best guy. I almost messed up my friends DODGE by setting it to what i thought was right.

Bill good luck man.

------------------
89 with 395 single stage n2o .garret t3. 373's Suspention worked out finnaly . need cage .

Stang_ROTY · 09-08-2001, 12:01 PM

To make a lnog story short this guy is a chevy guy but he does do fords and mopar. I do remember him saying he wasn't sure where he set it (somewhere betweeen .005 and .008) so that probably had a lot to do with it. We keep in touch so he isn't trying to dodge me or anything. I just hope this is the last time I have to pull the engine for a bearing. By the way guys, what are the symptoms of it getting worse? FYI- I gave him the first filter and he noticed particles in it...he said it was normal. the second one is in my trunk and will be given to him today. I've got a little over 200 miles on the engine and 3 oil changes. By the way, I have a oil leak coming from either the back of the oil pan or the rear main seal. Not much oil in the bellhousing...just some film. Most of the film is on the back of the Canton pan. thanksfor the help guys.

PKRWUD · 09-08-2001, 12:04 PM

I'm presuming you mean the measurement was .012", not .0012". There is a phenomenon with small block Fords called Torque Convertor Ballooning, in which the T.C. actually balloons up, and puts excessive pressure on the crank and wears the bearings. This is usually caused by extreme temps, high rpms, and a weak or used T.C. It also usually requires 1000 miles of use to show up. I doubt this is your problem, but wanted to mention it. I don't recommend driving it further. It's not going to get any better. It needs to be fixed now. Hopefully, dissassembly will reveal the cause. If not, I would suspect an error by the assembler.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Stang_ROTY · 09-10-2001, 06:31 AM

I'm not going to drive it anymore and I plan on pulling the engine in a couple weeks. Was thinking also about installing a new cam with a more aggresive profile. But I really need to figure out what happened. The only way to do that is to pull her out. I might as well get used to it

PKRWUD · 09-10-2001, 07:40 AM

That's a great attitude! I'd be ready to hang the builder.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-04-2001, 09:34 PM	#1
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Do I have to yank my motor becasue of this!!???? My engine builder was underneath my car yesterday measuring the distance my crank has moved with a micrometer and it is 4 thouosands over. From what he said the range is from 4-8 thousands and mine is 12 thousands. How bad is that. He suggests I pull the engine and replace the bearings if it gets worse and I want to run it hard. Should I wait for Spring, yank it now, or just leave it. I always like a second opinion. Thanks.

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09-04-2001, 10:17 PM	#2
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	sounds like the same problem i had. i decided to yank my motor and just build a whole new one, but u could just replace the bearing which might be cheaper. i just thought new would be better, then a old block and internals which was beat before i bought it. when i found out my bearing were going i drove the old motor pretty hard to see what it could take. i put a heavier oil to help from thining out when it got hot. when it started getting bad it would tick and smell, no to mention the slight oil leak. i drove it about 3 months till i found a beater to drive while i put the new motor in. hope that helps ------------------ 89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims MY89GT

09-04-2001, 11:34 PM	#3
347MOM Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: SOUR LAKE,TX (U.S.A.) Posts: 64	IS'NT YOUR MOTOR PRETTY NEW.

09-04-2001, 11:54 PM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	.008" is the max. Your engine has less than 200 miles, and you're up to .012"?? How did this come about? Why was your mechanic checking your crankshaft endplay, and better yet, how? Talk to me. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-05-2001, 11:09 AM	#5
BilLster Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Ontario canada Posts: 446	Dont take this the wrong way man but i would seriously consider a new engine builder. After all of your problems. If I did that work i would be embaressed i would ask you to leave the car and fix it myself for free. Unless you have loads of money and then i would charge you LoL. again and again untill you didnt come back LoL. ------------------ 89 with 395 single stage n2o .garret t3. 373's Suspention worked out finnaly . need cage .

09-05-2001, 11:26 AM	#6
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Chris, Thanks for replying. I appreciate the help. This is what happened. One day we were talking (he calls me almost daily on the car) and I told him about how the tranny was hot. He then brought up the point of checking the end play and thrust bearing some day. He said he was curious and just wanted to check. So I brought the car over there one day and we found out that the tranny cooler was blocked (brand new) and I have an oil leak coming from the new Canton pan. I thought (and still think) it was the main seal b/c small drip of oil is visible on my bellhousing (wide open type). But there is none on the flywheel or torque convertor. He then got underneath the car with a micrometer and tried to measure from the front of the block. I noticed he was shaking his head as if he couldn't get an accurate measurement and moved to the back of the block. I didn't hear anything from him for a minute or two and then I asked him. He told me "It's .0012, could be worse. I'd tell you not to run the engine down the track if it was closer to .0030" We then looked in the spec book and it said between .004 and .008 for a Ford. This really sucks man. I just don't know how it happened. I bought all of the best parts. I guess it could be worse but I have no garage to be yanking engines in. I'm only 24, I don't own a house yet u know. Should I still be driving it or should I just check after the engine is fully broken. [QUOTE]Originally posted by PKRWUD: [B].008" is the max. Your engine has less than 200 miles, and you're up to .012"?? How did this come about? Why was your mechanic checking your crankshaft endplay, and better yet, how? Talk to me. Take care ~Chris

09-05-2001, 01:08 PM	#7
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	Hey man, not to knock your engine builder butI have NEVER checked my "End Play". I always check the tolerences when first putting a motor together but never after I run it. I've built several motors for drag cars and most especially pulling trucks and never had that problem. We've thrown rods, broke cranks and everything else but there has never been any front to back motion on the crank that I have seen. This could very well be a problem I should start to investigate for future reference though. ------------------ '93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), 89' 4banger in prep for all out drag car. Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover. Future Mods granatelli lift bars, bbk uppers, Flex-a-lite elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, holley 650 d.p., built c-4 or c-6, e-303, 10 inch wheels in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, pulleys, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, custom headers, rear seat delete, aftermarket front seats, roll cage, ATI p

09-05-2001, 01:26 PM	#8
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	He has built many drang engines and several tractor pull/mudd bogg type also. He is very reputable and take a lot of pride in his work. We didn't even talk $$ until everything was running and running good. He thinks I overheated my tranny when my cooler cloggedand that heat had to expand somewhere. He didn't say I can't drive it, but we will check again and if it's worse it has to come out. This is really tough for me to swallow b/c I haven't even taken it down the strip and I just passed emissions, plus I have no where to do the work.

09-05-2001, 08:14 PM	#9
juiceman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ny Posts: 197	well, although not impossible to hurt the bearing in 200 miles its not likely. prhaps it was due to a mistake by the builder. we are only human. using a micrometer under the car to get end play? sounds a bit wierd to me. most builders use dial gauges mounted to the block then to the crank snout and push/pull on the crank to get an exact measure. have it done right. the worry about it. if its definately out then change the bearing. and hope its not a problem with the crank machining.

09-05-2001, 09:34 PM	#10
go4it Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Wise,Va. Posts: 248	Stang_ROTY, check this thread out on the corral. It may be of some interest to you. http://www.corral.net/forums/showthr...threadid=10274 ------------------ 93GT, S-trim (2.95 pulley), SFMU, Stage 2 TFS TW heads, Stage 2 Cobra intake, AFM powerpipe, PRO-M 75mm massair, 75mm throttle body, 42lb.inj. 1 5/8 headers, 2 1/2 h-pipe and exhaust, 2 chamber Flowmasters, 3.55 gears, Ultradyne cam, Elder.timing gears, Black Magic fan, FMS aluminum radiator, MSD6al/BTM, MSD coil, MSD shift light, subframe connectors, A-pillar gauges, Pro-5.0 shifter, 130amp alt., 73mm calipars, Autometer gauges. 2001 Lightning

09-06-2001, 01:50 PM	#11
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	I can't see how he would check endplay with a micrometer unless he was maybe checking from the flywheel to a flange on the engine?? Anyway, I would get a dial indicator and be sure. ------------------ Gunning for 12's! Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

09-06-2001, 08:36 PM	#12
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	2fastlx - We did check it with a dial indicator. I talked to him today and he verified that we did use it. The plan is for me to put more miles on the engine and we'll check again BEFORE I take it down the track. Luckily, I got ahold of my old engine builder today and he said I can pull the engine and store it over the winter in his shop. go4it - Thanks for the link. I'm surprised that reputable engine builders have problems with their engines, I don't feel so bad now.

09-07-2001, 05:28 AM	#13
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	I'm a firm believer in "If you want it done right, do it yourself". I've learned a lot holding to this way of thinking. Yeah, I've faced a sh!tload of problems because of it, but it's been worth it in the end (I guess). I am no expert engine builder, but I do know if you want to build an engine there are tons of books out there to tell you everything you need to know. The best kind are obviously the ones detailing the build up of Ford specific HiPo engine setups and have step by step type sections in them. But then again, you have to have the tools. I'm getting ready to undertake a complete build up of a 393 stroker and plan to do as much of the work as I can at the machine shop where I work. It would be killer to be able to say "I built it", rather than "I bought it from DSS" Good luck on yours Stang_ROTY. I hope it turns out to be OK. And by the way, it's not hard to pull an engine and slap a set of bearings in. ------------------ Gunning for 12's! Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

09-07-2001, 06:41 AM	#14
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Also, I forgot to mention - I wouldn't put many miles on the engine before checking the end play again. Check it often and at the first sign of it getting worse I'd definately park it. If it were me I would just pull it anyway and see what is going on. No sense in messing up the crank too. What all is done to the engine as far as mods go? How many miles on the rebuild? Have you pulled the oil filter and checked for particles? Just curious. ------------------ Gunning for 12's! Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

09-07-2001, 11:26 AM	#15
BilLster Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Ontario canada Posts: 446	Stang_ROTY I have been thinking about this for a day now and some thing has been eating at me and now i worked it out. 1.He then brought up the point of checking the end play and thrust bearing some day. He said he was curious and just wanted to check.(maybe he wasnt sure how he had set it) 2.I noticed he was shaking his head as if he couldn't get an accurate measurement and moved to the back of the block. I didn't hear anything from him for a minute or two and then I asked him. He told me "It's .0012, could be worse. I'd tell you not to run the engine down the track if it was closer to .0030" We then looked in the spec book and it said between .004 and .008 for a Ford. (he should of know this or does he mainly do chivey's?)(did he not know this when he assembled it?) 3.I'd tell you not to run the engine down the track if it was closer to .0030 (why that much) 4. End play like that come from am inproperly seated thrust bearing not heat. For the amount of heat your engine saw it wouldnt of diapated enough heat to unseat the front bearing. ( i have seen engines run overheating for days. desiels in the former Yougoslavia that didnt get that much run out and aslo had a Iltis (canadian jeep) that we had to replace the head but the bottom end was OK after three days of running with no rad.)(ok to run over seas but we would of replaced it here. Since your builder brought it up i would assume he was having doubts about the tolerences himself secondly if I'm checking something i look up the spec first so i have a idea while I'm down there. or if someone else is doing it they dont try the hey your end play is .006 we have to fix that . bust my .02 cent try checking it yourself or getting someone else to help. secondly when building an engine get somone who works on that brand not always the best guy. I almost messed up my friends DODGE by setting it to what i thought was right. Bill good luck man. ------------------ 89 with 395 single stage n2o .garret t3. 373's Suspention worked out finnaly . need cage .

09-08-2001, 12:01 PM	#16
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	To make a lnog story short this guy is a chevy guy but he does do fords and mopar. I do remember him saying he wasn't sure where he set it (somewhere betweeen .005 and .008) so that probably had a lot to do with it. We keep in touch so he isn't trying to dodge me or anything. I just hope this is the last time I have to pull the engine for a bearing. By the way guys, what are the symptoms of it getting worse? FYI- I gave him the first filter and he noticed particles in it...he said it was normal. the second one is in my trunk and will be given to him today. I've got a little over 200 miles on the engine and 3 oil changes. By the way, I have a oil leak coming from either the back of the oil pan or the rear main seal. Not much oil in the bellhousing...just some film. Most of the film is on the back of the Canton pan. thanksfor the help guys.

09-08-2001, 12:04 PM	#17
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I'm presuming you mean the measurement was .012", not .0012". There is a phenomenon with small block Fords called Torque Convertor Ballooning, in which the T.C. actually balloons up, and puts excessive pressure on the crank and wears the bearings. This is usually caused by extreme temps, high rpms, and a weak or used T.C. It also usually requires 1000 miles of use to show up. I doubt this is your problem, but wanted to mention it. I don't recommend driving it further. It's not going to get any better. It needs to be fixed now. Hopefully, dissassembly will reveal the cause. If not, I would suspect an error by the assembler. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-10-2001, 06:31 AM	#18
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	I'm not going to drive it anymore and I plan on pulling the engine in a couple weeks. Was thinking also about installing a new cam with a more aggresive profile. But I really need to figure out what happened. The only way to do that is to pull her out. I might as well get used to it

09-10-2001, 07:40 AM	#19
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	That's a great attitude! I'd be ready to hang the builder. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!