some oil on my plug thread.

Shotgun28 · 01-25-2001, 12:01 AM

I was looking over my baby(stored for winter) the other day and noticed some oil on one of my plug threads, I am not sure what number it is, furthest one back on the passenger side, any ideas> I just bought some new heads and might have a better idea when putting them in, but would like some info on what to look for. This is driving me crazy. Thank you

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91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

Mont · 01-25-2001, 12:55 AM

that plug would be number 4. it could be your valve covers leaking a little. I have a newer motor and I have the same oil problem on the same plug. I wouldn't worry about it...

------------------
89 LX Supercharged DSS 357, 11 lbs Powerdyne, Downs Box intake, ported GT-40x heads, lockwired, Crane Cam 1.6 rockers, Crower cam, Oil cooler, Moroso oil evac kit, Taylor 10mm wires, MAC 70mm T/B, 30lb injectors, Vortech fuel rails, Pro M 75mm Mass air, Vortech T-Rex Fuel pump, 255lph intank pump, K&N, Cobra R radiator MSD6-BTM, Lakewood bellhousing, Tremec Trans, Pro 5.0 shifter, MAC headers and X-pipe, Dynomax race mufflers. Dyno at 556hp to the wheels.

Shotgun28 · 01-25-2001, 08:41 AM

OKay because I heard oil in the spark plug area could indicat a more serious problem. I will look for a leak in the valve cover when I replace my heads, anything else to look for? Thanks again

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

Rick 91GT · 01-25-2001, 09:00 AM

The best way to be sure is to do a compression test, if compression goes up it's weak rings, if compression drops it's valve guides. If you put new heads on a motor that has a lot of miles and weak rings it will only get worse.

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

Shotgun28 · 01-25-2001, 10:44 AM

Rick 91GT:

Okay what is, in decent detail if you will, the easiest way to replace rings, and I am unsure what a valve guide is, could you tell me more and if I have to fix this what is involved, I have not check my compression yet, and I would be surprised at 90,000 and rarely driven hard except only a handful of street light fights, and I mean a handful, this thing is babied, that either of these is the problem, but I am still a rookie and more or less hoping it is neither of these two things. Thank you.

------------------
91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

Rick 91GT · 01-26-2001, 12:10 AM

With only 90M miles and since it isn't driven hard you should have good compression so it probably isn't the rings
but here it goes...

There really is no easy way to replace the rings, you will have to pull the motor, pull the whole top half off, intakes, heads, etc.. pull the oil pan, pickup tube and pump, pull off all the main caps, the main bearings, then you can unbolt the rods from the crank, pull the rod bearings out, pull the crank, then you will be able to drop/push the pistons out through the bottom of the bore, put some plastic or rubber tubing on the end of the rod bolts so as you are pushing the piston out if it makes contact with the crank it will not scratch or mark the crank. If the crank shows marks on the bearing journals it will need to be fixed, polished etc... Whew, man I was on a roll.... Then you can take the old rings off, all three on each piston and clean out the rings valleys/grooves after these are all clean you can put the rings back in, all the ring gaps must be 90degrees from each other so that it hold compression and doesn't get massive blow bye. Put all the pistons back in the with the top ring gap facing the same direction each time, you will need a ring expander to put them on and a ring compressor to install the pistons. The pistons will go back in through the top. Damn forgot a step... If you mic the walls and the bores are within tolerance (I can't find my sheets right now to tell you what that is) then the bores will need to be honed to knock the glaze off, honing will put the cross hatches back on the cylinder walls so that the rings have something to seal against you need these. A machine shop can do that or you can do it at home if you are careful, the stones can be bought at Sears, the ball type are better then the flat pads though, the hatches should be on 30 degree angles. I did this with a 1/2" drive drill, very slowly and carefully to get the hatches back, the up and down motion puts these in, use liberal amounts of WD-40 to lubricate it very well. Wash out all the bores with soapy warm water to get all the debris out. Dry everything out lubricate it then install the pistons and new rod bearings, the crank, etc...

The valve guide is what the valves in your heads slide through, it keeps the valve straight during operation, each valve has a valve seal, these may be worn out, they have rubber and ceramic valve seals, it all depends on the application. A machine shop could will replace the worn out pieces or if you have the knowledge you could do it at home but you will need a valve spring compressor and other tools, even though I can do almost everything to my car and I am not afraid to try anything, I would let a experienced machine shop put these in, I would take them apart though, and put them back together. While your at it you could also get a valve job, port/polish, etc.. or make the decision to upgrade to a new set of heads, cam etc... the possiblities are endless once it's apart, it really all depends on how much you want to invest and what you want the car to do. Ask 89LXNB-Dan knows exactly what I am saying, his car is apart right now and it started out with a plan and now like me he is over budget and doing more and more..... it seems like it never stops. Sorry this was so long if you need anything else drop me a line, I am always happy to help

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

01-25-2001, 12:01 AM	#1
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	some oil on my plug thread. I was looking over my baby(stored for winter) the other day and noticed some oil on one of my plug threads, I am not sure what number it is, furthest one back on the passenger side, any ideas> I just bought some new heads and might have a better idea when putting them in, but would like some info on what to look for. This is driving me crazy. Thank you ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

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01-25-2001, 12:55 AM	#2
Mont Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Bountiful, UT Posts: 91	that plug would be number 4. it could be your valve covers leaking a little. I have a newer motor and I have the same oil problem on the same plug. I wouldn't worry about it... ------------------ 89 LX Supercharged DSS 357, 11 lbs Powerdyne, Downs Box intake, ported GT-40x heads, lockwired, Crane Cam 1.6 rockers, Crower cam, Oil cooler, Moroso oil evac kit, Taylor 10mm wires, MAC 70mm T/B, 30lb injectors, Vortech fuel rails, Pro M 75mm Mass air, Vortech T-Rex Fuel pump, 255lph intank pump, K&N, Cobra R radiator MSD6-BTM, Lakewood bellhousing, Tremec Trans, Pro 5.0 shifter, MAC headers and X-pipe, Dynomax race mufflers. Dyno at 556hp to the wheels.

01-25-2001, 08:41 AM	#3
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	OKay because I heard oil in the spark plug area could indicat a more serious problem. I will look for a leak in the valve cover when I replace my heads, anything else to look for? Thanks again ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

01-25-2001, 09:00 AM	#4
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	The best way to be sure is to do a compression test, if compression goes up it's weak rings, if compression drops it's valve guides. If you put new heads on a motor that has a lot of miles and weak rings it will only get worse. ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

01-25-2001, 10:44 AM	#5
Shotgun28 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Hope MN USA Posts: 276	Rick 91GT: Okay what is, in decent detail if you will, the easiest way to replace rings, and I am unsure what a valve guide is, could you tell me more and if I have to fix this what is involved, I have not check my compression yet, and I would be surprised at 90,000 and rarely driven hard except only a handful of street light fights, and I mean a handful, this thing is babied, that either of these is the problem, but I am still a rookie and more or less hoping it is neither of these two things. Thank you. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way...

01-26-2001, 12:10 AM	#6
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	With only 90M miles and since it isn't driven hard you should have good compression so it probably isn't the rings but here it goes... There really is no easy way to replace the rings, you will have to pull the motor, pull the whole top half off, intakes, heads, etc.. pull the oil pan, pickup tube and pump, pull off all the main caps, the main bearings, then you can unbolt the rods from the crank, pull the rod bearings out, pull the crank, then you will be able to drop/push the pistons out through the bottom of the bore, put some plastic or rubber tubing on the end of the rod bolts so as you are pushing the piston out if it makes contact with the crank it will not scratch or mark the crank. If the crank shows marks on the bearing journals it will need to be fixed, polished etc... Whew, man I was on a roll.... Then you can take the old rings off, all three on each piston and clean out the rings valleys/grooves after these are all clean you can put the rings back in, all the ring gaps must be 90degrees from each other so that it hold compression and doesn't get massive blow bye. Put all the pistons back in the with the top ring gap facing the same direction each time, you will need a ring expander to put them on and a ring compressor to install the pistons. The pistons will go back in through the top. Damn forgot a step... If you mic the walls and the bores are within tolerance (I can't find my sheets right now to tell you what that is) then the bores will need to be honed to knock the glaze off, honing will put the cross hatches back on the cylinder walls so that the rings have something to seal against you need these. A machine shop can do that or you can do it at home if you are careful, the stones can be bought at Sears, the ball type are better then the flat pads though, the hatches should be on 30 degree angles. I did this with a 1/2" drive drill, very slowly and carefully to get the hatches back, the up and down motion puts these in, use liberal amounts of WD-40 to lubricate it very well. Wash out all the bores with soapy warm water to get all the debris out. Dry everything out lubricate it then install the pistons and new rod bearings, the crank, etc... The valve guide is what the valves in your heads slide through, it keeps the valve straight during operation, each valve has a valve seal, these may be worn out, they have rubber and ceramic valve seals, it all depends on the application. A machine shop could will replace the worn out pieces or if you have the knowledge you could do it at home but you will need a valve spring compressor and other tools, even though I can do almost everything to my car and I am not afraid to try anything, I would let a experienced machine shop put these in, I would take them apart though, and put them back together. While your at it you could also get a valve job, port/polish, etc.. or make the decision to upgrade to a new set of heads, cam etc... the possiblities are endless once it's apart, it really all depends on how much you want to invest and what you want the car to do. Ask 89LXNB-Dan knows exactly what I am saying, his car is apart right now and it started out with a plan and now like me he is over budget and doing more and more..... it seems like it never stops. Sorry this was so long if you need anything else drop me a line, I am always happy to help ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98