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01-25-2001, 12:33 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 177
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heat spacer...EGR problem???
The BBK Intake heat spacer blocks off the EGR bypass, is this a problem??? If I run the spacer, do I have to do anything else to make it work??? thanks
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01-25-2001, 07:41 PM | #2 |
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Unless you have emissions testing, I don't think you'll have many problems. You may lose a little fuel economy (depending on driving style) and have to watch for pinging because of non-functional EGR, but I think you'll run okay. Just don't disconnect any of the vacuum lines or wiring to or from anything connected to the EGR system. Troublecodes and the check engine light will pop up quickly. Hope this helps.
------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch <--- New Timeslips |
01-25-2001, 08:30 PM | #3 |
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Location: Middlesex, NJ
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On a related note....Im getting error codes and a check engine light that says my EGR is bad, my friend said he could order a new one for $90. I was going to wait a few weeks. What does having a bad EGR effect?
------------------ 1992 GT 5.0L Convertible BBK Shorties Flowmasters All Power Super Chip |
01-25-2001, 10:07 PM | #4 |
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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You might just be able to drill a hole in it for the EGR.
------------------ 87 GT, 4 inch cowl hood,17x9 Cobra R's/255/45's,GT-40 heads,long tubes headers,h-pipe,Flows,BBK cold air, Mass air,70mm MAF, 1.7's, 1" spacer,underdrive pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra, Adj. fuel Reg., Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's. Best time 13.012 Best MPH 104 Best 60' 1.816 Visit my site at: http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html |
01-26-2001, 12:50 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 1998
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Good call, you can probably bore that puppy out for EGR, np. Never occurred to me. Hehehe.
With EGR or any other diagnostic codes you have to be careful. Everybody thinks because there's a code for something that the particular part is bad. Usually it's NOT. For example: my 4-banger idled way too high, pulled codes, said bad MAP sensor. Replaced it, but no change. Gee, it ended up being a leaking $0.89 gasket, didn't have to spend the $50 on a new MAP sensor that I did. In your EGR case, I've seen cracked vacuum hoses throw those codes more often than not, and of course it would because the computer controls EGR through pulsing vacuum to the valve. Then it looks to see that its orders were carried out. When vacuum isn't available because of those cracks, the command can't be carried out, the EGR position sensor sees no movement, and boom, there's your trouble code. Just start by doing a thorough visual and a wiggle test, test individual components, and go from there. Don't just start throwing $$$ at the problem, fix it right! It costs less. Good luck. ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch <--- New Timeslips |
01-26-2001, 10:19 AM | #6 |
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Location: Middlesex, NJ
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I get an EGR Out of range error code. I cleared the computer and it took like 30 min for it to come back and the check engine light only comes one in a while for a 1/2 second.
------------------ 1992 GT 5.0L Convertible BBK Shorties Flowmasters All Power Super Chip |
01-26-2001, 10:23 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Middlesex, NJ
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Oh yeah...one other thing. I lost my book that tells me where everything in on my car and how it comes apart, so would anyone be kind enough as to explain where the EGR is on a 92 Mustang 5.0? Thanks!
------------------ 1992 GT 5.0L Convertible BBK Shorties Flowmasters All Power Super Chip |
01-26-2001, 11:59 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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The EGR is on the intake in between the throttle body and the upper intake. The valve is on the back side of the EGR plate.
Gray87GT - By cutting off EGR you will have problems. Both drivablity and a possiblity of power loss. If I've said it once I've said it a million times, "if you are getting error codes, you're not running 100%" The computer does many things to keep you from screwing up the engine while codes are shown. If you drill out the hole for EGR, you're pretty much voiding out the heat resistant spacer you just put in. What they are made to do is keep the upper intake from getting hot so that the air entering the engine is colder. Most people don't get that you should disconnect your EGR water supply and return lines when you put in a heat spacer. The water lines are too cool the EGR spacer because it gets extremely hot from exhaust gas, however since you will no longer have EGR gas in the intake, you need to disconnect the water so that it doesn't heat up the upper intake. With a spacer that blocks EGR and no water to the EGR you should be able to run the car for a while and then touch the intake and it should be warm if anything. But not blazing hot like normal. Drilling the EGR hole and running a spacer would only slightly lengthen the intake ports and might add some torque or power, but it would be so minor that you would not tell. Anyway, if you are set on putting a spacer on, I have heard of people disconnecting water and running a spacer, no EGR hole and running fine, if you can handle the Check Engine light and annoying codes everytime you try and pull codes. Anyway, it's up to you. Just my $.02 ------------------ Michael Black Quantum Motorsports Norman, Oklahoma 1988 Merc Cougar 5.0 HO, P&Ped heads, 2.25" custom mandrel bent dual pipes, T5 five speed tranny 15.43 @ 91.08mph (not shabby for a 3600 pound car) 60' 2.453 Street tires suck!!! |
01-26-2001, 12:02 PM | #9 |
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Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
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I feel I should explain why you would get codes from a blocked EGR. When the computer tells the EGR valve to open, it looks for a slightly lean mixture at the O2 sensors, if it doesn't see the appropriate lean mixture from the EGR air it flags a code. But like I said, some people are able to run fine with theirs blocked.
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