Wiring Problem, need help

[7000rpmisheaven]

Ok last week I ran my car for the first time since it was back together. It overheated and I tore it down and straightened a warped head. Well I got it all back together and went to start it last night and there was no spark. It took me a few minute to figure out that the four wires coming out of my duraspark ignition module had been torn off. I couldn't remember how they hooked back up as some of the colors are faded. I think two of the wires went to the coil and two went to the distributor. Does this sound right. Does any one have any information about the wiring. Keep in mind this is a 4 bbl. 85

[PKRWUD]

You should have two wires in one lead, and four in the other, coming from the module. The two wire lead will have a red wire and a white wire. The four wire lead should have one each of these colors: green, orange, purple and black. Connect them as follows:

White: To the Start terminal on the ignition switch.
Red: To the Run terminal on the ignition switch.
Green: To the Negative side of the coil.
Orange: To the Orange lead from the Stator Assembly in the distributor.
Purple: To the Purple lead from the Stator Assembly in the distributor.
Black: To the distributor ground.

The last three should be in a 3 wire harness coming from the distributor.

Take care,
-Chris

[7000rpmisheaven]

Thats helps alot. The frist ones the red and the white are in there own harness and they are ok. Here is where i think I mixed up. The green is hooked up to the negative side of the coil. The black and the purple are running to the distributor but the orange is running to the other side of the coil. You answered the question of where it is supposed to go, but what is the red from the other side of the coil supposed to be connected to?

[PKRWUD]

That one is a little tricky. It goes to your ignition switch, but as follows:

There is a wire that goes from the Run terminal of the ignition switch, through a ballast resistor, and to the pos side of the coil. However, there is also a starter bypass wire that goes from the Start terminal on the ignition switch to a splice just past the ballast resistor in the first wire mentioned, and then to the pos side of the coil. To make matters more complicated, the red wire from the module also splices into this same wire, but it does so on the ignition switch side of the resistor.

I hope this helps.

Take care,
-Chris

[7000rpmisheaven]

Yeah it sounds a little confusing. But I'll draw it all out compare all the wires when i get home this afternoon. This is just what I needed. Thanks alot.

[7000rpmisheaven]

I drew it out bause it will be easier for me that way. can you tell me if this looks right.

[PKRWUD]

Yeah. Unfortunately, I didn't understand yours until after I made one for you. Your crossed wires at the switch are what threw me. Anyway, here's one for you:

Take care,
-Chris

[7000rpmisheaven]

PKRWUD you're the best.

[PKRWUD]

Good luck!

Take care,
-Chris

[7000rpmisheaven]

OK it isn't working. All the wires to the distributor are correct. Thos were easy to check. The green wire for the negative side of the coil was also easy to check. The last wire that got torn off is the red one from the coil. I thought I had it in the right place. It is hard to tell cause the wires run off through the firewall. It isn't very likely that any of the ignition equipment stopped working cause I just used it recently. I started the car up then tore it down, fixed stuff, put it back together and now no spark. I would like to rule out that any of the equipment hasn't gone bad. Is there a way that I can test if the coil is getting the right signal. That would help to rule out whether the coil still works or not. Is there a way that i can test that the ignition module still works.

[PKRWUD]

You'll need a non powered 12 volt test lamp ($3 at Pep Boys). Do these in order, and stop if it fails a test.

First test:
Attach alligator clip from test lamp to engine block, and touch the tip of the tester probe to the positive battery post.
Lamp should be bright.
If not, check your grounds from the battery to the engine.

Second test:
Leave alligator clip attached to block, turn the ignition on, but don't start it. Touch the tester probe tip to the positive post on the coil.
Lamp should be almost as bright as it was for the first test.
If it's not lit, the problem is an open in the wire between the key and the coil.

Third test:
Move the alligator clip to the negative post on the coil.
While you are holding the tester probe tip to the positive coil post, have an assistant try to start the car.
The test lamp should pulse on and off, repeatedly.
If it doesn't, then no signal is getting to the coil from the module.

Fourth test:
Attach the alligator clip to the block again.
Turn the key on again.
Pierce the red wire at the module with a safety pin, and touch the tester probe tip to the safety pin.
The lamp should light up as brightly as it did for the first test.
If it doesn't light, there is an open in the red wire between the module and the key.

Fifth test:
Remove the cable that goes to the starter from the starter relay, at the starter relay (one nut).
Pierce the white wire at the module with a safety pin.
While you hold the test er probe tip to the safety pin, have an assistant turn the key to the start position.
The lamp should light up.
If it doesn't, there is an open in the white wire between the key and the module.
If it does light up brightly, the module is bad.

Take care,
-Chris

[7000rpmisheaven]

Ok its running. It sounds better than ever. For those of you that don't know there is a noticable difference in sound between a carbed 5.0 with 2 ch. flows and O/R H and one that is fuel inject one with the same. IMO carbed cars sound so much better.

Anyways I didn't really figure out exactly what the problem was. I replaced a couple wires and connections that didn't look in good shape. Then I put it all togethr and start to run through all the tests you listed above. They all checked out ok. The I started it up and it ran. What I think happend is that I kept, unpluggin this and switching that and pluggin this in here instead of there. There was one connection to the distributo that looked like it had enough contact when it didn't. it could have been that. Thanks for all the help. I can finally move on to other things.

Tell me this does 2500 rpm in 5th at 80 sound like a slipping clutch. I don't remeber if 85 had an optional rear (3.08 or something like that).