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02-26-2001, 03:16 PM | #1 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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explorer intake here, a few Q's on install
finally got an explorer intake, thanks withamc, i've got a couple questions on installation, he said i needed to take off the vacuum line of the EGR for some reason, he said it would run way too lean if i left it on, why is that and which line do i disconnect? is it the most visible one that goes to the canister looking thing behind the EGR spacer that comes from the vacuum tree on the left side of the TB (facing the engine) ? also which gaskets do i ask the autozone guys for? 95-98 explorer? another thing that i'm worried about, is there anyway i can get through it without removing the distributor completely? im really worried about dropping the oilpump driveshaft in the pan and having to yank the engine to get it out, can i just remove the wires and cap? i think thats all the questions for now, thanks everyone
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install |
02-26-2001, 04:24 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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If you test fit the EGR spacer on the manifold, you'll see that the inlet (bottom of spacer where it mates to the intake) will allow air in if the valve opens. The EGR valve mounts on the EGR spacer and has a vacuum fitting hanging off it. Disconnect that vacuum hose or get an EGR block off plate to fit between the valve and the spacer.
I used the Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets (I think they're 1415 but I'm NOT SURE) and used an upper to lower from a 96 explorer. I suppose you could try to do it without pulling the distributor, but I've pulled mine at least 10 times and never even thought about the oil pump shaft. Good luck! Chris ------------------ 86 GT, GT40P heads, Crane 2031, 1.7 RR's, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm Vortech, 24# injectors, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s. |
02-26-2001, 06:03 PM | #3 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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chris, i've got the upper off now and was comparing the two, theres a couple of hose connections that im confused about, theres one towards the back on the stock one that comes out and then theres two vacuum lines that connect to it and the explorer has no vacuum line connections whatsoever, what do i do with them? one goes to the FPR, also theres two (brass?) connections one towards the front and one towards the rear underneath the upper manifold that i dont know what goes there, the rear one is in the same place as the stocker and leads to the PCV valve, speaking of which theres no place on the lower mainfold for the PCV valve, is it not needed on this intake? i want to know what the connections are and where they lead before i put it together wrong, anyone have a picture of the underside of the upper manifold they could post? i'd really appreciate it, thanks
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install |
02-26-2001, 07:18 PM | #4 |
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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I gotta make this quick - I'm still at work. I could swear that thing had a PCV fitting - it's been a couple months, maybe I'm wrong. Big hole at the back of the lower manifold? Also, there should be two tubes, one leading to the front of the upper, one leading to the rear. I tee'd off of those to get the necessary vacuum lines I needed. Obviously you'll have to improvise a bit on the vacuum lines as the manifold came off of a different engine. Make sure to check and make sure the lines actually are vacuum lines, however.If I remember correctly, there's two that aren't really vacuum lines, I think they may have led to an intake temperature sensor. I'll keep checking to see if you're having problems.
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02-26-2001, 08:51 PM | #5 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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i feel dumb now, i couldnt find the PCV fitting for it because i didnt know there was a little rubber fitting inside the hole, it does have it, so thats solved, was the T'd hose a vacuum line? if so i think i can get a different T and make it work with my 2 small vacuum lines that im wondering about, and about the 2 brass fittings-the rear is in the same place as the stock one that goes to the PCV valve, theres also a place for a fitting on the stock one but its got a plug in it, so should i just plug the one on the explorer? if so i think i may have everything straight(maybe) are all of the lines underneath the upper manifold vacuum lines? i ended up pulling the distributor cause i wasnt able to get off the lower without,(didnt drop the shaft, whew) this is getting to be harder than i thought it would
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02-26-2001, 11:21 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca
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On my manifold (early 96) on the upper, it had four vaccume lines on it. the lower had some extra holes in it. it had one in one of the intake runners (for the AIT) the others were for a coolant thing.. ipluged them all up. there was also another hole on the front bottom of the upper intake that i also plugged... i dotn know any thing about the EGR cuz on 95s all i need is the elbow adapter and every thing bolts up... any questions.. ill try to help..
------------------ PPG Torch Red 95GT, Ported Explorer Intake, E-303 cam, 75mm MAS, BBK Adj. fuel Reg & gauge, BBK Shorty Headers, BBK H-pipe, March Pulleys, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Kenny Brown 6 point Roll cage, Kenny Brown Panhard Bar, Powerslot Rotors, Eibach Sportline Springs, 180* Thermostat, 1/2 Plenum Spacer, MSD 6AL, MSD Master Blaster, MSD 8.8 Wires, 19# Racing Injectors, AFS 10.5" Cobra R's, Nitto 555's, Eclipse & JL Stereo System... I just sold My K&N, It looks funny with Stock Air Box & filter!!! |
02-27-2001, 12:47 AM | #7 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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yah that hole on the front bottom of the upper plenum is the one that i was wondering that i should plug, could i just put a rubber snug fit plug over the tube or should i see if it unscrews and put in a screw-in plug? if i plug that one i think i can figure out the rest, if the T thats on it is a vacuum line and can be used to go to the FPR and one other place then i'm all set, i've got the lower on now and injectors and fuel rails in, just need to pick up a upper to lower gasket (couldnt find one today) and install that and i'll be done
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02-27-2001, 12:56 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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fiveohpatrol - FYI - the only place I've been able to find the upper to lower gasket has been the dealer - about $6-$7. NAPA, Pep Boys, Autozone have all been special order. Which lower gaskets did you use?
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02-27-2001, 12:27 PM | #9 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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i used Felpro 90361 (thats what it said on the box), i asked for 96 explorer lower gaskets, should i have asked for the mustang ones? but shouldnt the gaskets be the same for the explorer 5.0 and mustang because the explorer intake bolts right up to the mustang heads?
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install [This message has been edited by fiveohpatrol (edited 02-27-2001).] |
02-27-2001, 02:14 PM | #10 |
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Should be fine.
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02-27-2001, 09:36 PM | #11 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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done! got everything in and runnin, took a little while to get the distributor back in the right spot but everything's fine now, gonna have to borrow a timing light tomorrow to get it perfect but from where i had it just by ear its running great, pulls a good deal harder now, thanks again Chris
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install |
02-28-2001, 07:18 PM | #12 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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got the timing set today at 14degrees and wow, i was suprised at the increase in power it gave me, i guess the 1.7s giving more lift to the cam needed some more air gettin in there too, im impressed with the gain especially for the price,now i gotta change my sig. thanks again Chris
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install |
02-28-2001, 09:40 PM | #13 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
|
well nevermind all that good stuff, i've got a problem now, im gonna start a new post, its overheating bad, theres a leak somewhere
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install |
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