Stroker kit vs. crate motor

Hozer 88GTConv · 06-19-2005, 09:03 PM

I'm going up in cubes since I've got ring issues.
Okay, nothing is wrong with my block, that I know of, so should I just get a nice 331 or 347 stroker kit (DSS-ish)...or do you just get a complete shortblock? I know with a 347 kit, there is an awful lot of grinding to get clearances...
pros and cons from experience would be appreciated.
I do want to keep my accessories as they are, 351+ is not an option...
I have access to a reasonable machine shop.
Tips, advice and recommendations appreciated.

91whiteghost · 06-20-2005, 05:42 PM

assembeling a stroker motor is not any harder than assembeling a stock short block. Just more things to check . Rod clearance to block being one, seems the rod bolts usually hit. need to ckeck the clearane at the bottom of the cylidinder as the big end of the rod comes around. all the other normal things , main and rod bearing clearances. crank end play piston to wall clearance. file fit rings. piston to valve clearance. piton to head clearance. you need a competantmachine shop to work with you. On the other hand the prices I've sen on assembled short blocks seem reasonable when you factor everything in. just check the main and rod torque if you but a stroker long block. good luck

fiveohpatrol · 06-20-2005, 07:07 PM

My advice is just to shop around, and if you're going to do it, go big or stay home. If you are 100% set on staying with a 8.2 deck, go with the 347.

If you trust your local shop, then go in and ask what it would cost to build it with a quality kit. Then compare that with what the crate motor distributors would be (DSS, Coast High, etc...) just remember to factor in shipping unless you are close to them.

I suggest talking with Brian at ADperformance (adperformance.com I believe). He's a straight shooter and will get you the best prices out there, and excellent advice. Just give him a call and tell him what you're looking at doing.

good luck

Dave_mustang_50 · 06-20-2005, 07:26 PM

I went with the dss 331 low comp crate and had a great experience. The short block I got was like 2500-2700 out the door, including the main support, windage tray and pro lite blower pistons. I`m actually looking at the 408w they make for the Mach. Before you decide, give them a call and ask them what they do to their "race prepped block". I didnt have a machine shop here I trusted with my motor, It might be the better way for you to go.

06-19-2005, 09:03 PM	#1
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Stroker kit vs. crate motor I'm going up in cubes since I've got ring issues. Okay, nothing is wrong with my block, that I know of, so should I just get a nice 331 or 347 stroker kit (DSS-ish)...or do you just get a complete shortblock? I know with a 347 kit, there is an awful lot of grinding to get clearances... pros and cons from experience would be appreciated. I do want to keep my accessories as they are, 351+ is not an option... I have access to a reasonable machine shop. Tips, advice and recommendations appreciated. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

06-20-2005, 05:42 PM	#2
91whiteghost Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 8	Re: Stroker kit vs. crate motor assembeling a stroker motor is not any harder than assembeling a stock short block. Just more things to check . Rod clearance to block being one, seems the rod bolts usually hit. need to ckeck the clearane at the bottom of the cylidinder as the big end of the rod comes around. all the other normal things , main and rod bearing clearances. crank end play piston to wall clearance. file fit rings. piston to valve clearance. piton to head clearance. you need a competantmachine shop to work with you. On the other hand the prices I've sen on assembled short blocks seem reasonable when you factor everything in. just check the main and rod torque if you but a stroker long block. good luck

06-20-2005, 07:07 PM	#3
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	Re: Stroker kit vs. crate motor My advice is just to shop around, and if you're going to do it, go big or stay home. If you are 100% set on staying with a 8.2 deck, go with the 347. If you trust your local shop, then go in and ask what it would cost to build it with a quality kit. Then compare that with what the crate motor distributors would be (DSS, Coast High, etc...) just remember to factor in shipping unless you are close to them. I suggest talking with Brian at ADperformance (adperformance.com I believe). He's a straight shooter and will get you the best prices out there, and excellent advice. Just give him a call and tell him what you're looking at doing. good luck __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

06-20-2005, 07:26 PM	#4
Dave_mustang_50 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Port Richey, Florida Posts: 483	Re: Stroker kit vs. crate motor I went with the dss 331 low comp crate and had a great experience. The short block I got was like 2500-2700 out the door, including the main support, windage tray and pro lite blower pistons. I`m actually looking at the 408w they make for the Mach. Before you decide, give them a call and ask them what they do to their "race prepped block". I didnt have a machine shop here I trusted with my motor, It might be the better way for you to go. __________________ 1969 Mach 1 351C with a c6(for now) Sold 92 Rag Top GT Procharged & intercooled DSS 331 LC Holley Systemax 2 Intake, Edelbrock RPM Heads,E 303 ,blow thru air meter, race bypass, 42 pph injectors,65mm tb,1.7 rr, Mac long tube headers w/off road H pipe, Force 2 catback, TKO,Pro 5.0, K&N, Alum DS,3 core radiator, subframe connectors,3.73`s, Nitto DR`s and a Heavy Foot.

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