Quad Shock Removal

PeTr0 · 10-07-2001, 03:07 AM

I need to flip over my quad shocks to fit in my larger tires(255/40/17) in the rear. I cannot get the bolt or nut loose on the axel braket. The bolt it starting to get a little rounded off...I am getting a little frustraded. How do i get these things off?? should i just cut them off and get some good control arms? How bad would driving without them be for a little while.

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Red 1993 Gt- 3.55 gears,flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer, 130 amp alt., underdrives,65mm T-body,MSD 6AL and blaster tfi coil sony cd player and changer, kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,firehawk sz50 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302.
waiting to be installed: 190 lph fuel pump

egiap's 5.0 · 10-07-2001, 07:25 AM

The nut at the quad shock is a 18mm. It is a locking nut and it will turn hard all the way. Get some PB Blaster and spray the nut. Let it set 1/2 an hour. Yes you do need those shocks. If you go with a torque arm you can remove them as well as upper control arms. As for turning them over the dust boot would hold road dirt and I dont think that would be good. My 2 cents, could be wrong.

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Edward VanCura, Amsoil dealer. For information about amsoil synthetic oil and lubes leave me a message. Ask about preffered customer program and buy at dealer cost.

jz_mustang50 · 10-07-2001, 08:30 PM

I had the same exact problem with my quad shock bolts at the axle... I ended up having the problem with both sides. The meathod of removal that I used involved two people. I had the back of the car jacked up and sitting on jack stands with the wheels off. Drivers Side: I put a 18mm socket on a 3 inch (i believe) extension and had a friend hold the socket to make sure it didn't slip off and start rounding off the bolt. I sad behind the car, partly under the rear bumper and push on the wrench downward with my foot very slowly but used alot of force (The longer the better for this wrench! It make a loud snapping noise when it finally broke loose. It was the only way I could see to do it. It took about a 1/2 hour to get one side out. It went hard the entire way. As for the passanger side I took my jack and possitioned the wrench in the same place and jacked up the wrench slowly, breaking the bolts loose. It worked!!! Had to do it that way twice... Now they're off for good. If you want some good control arms get the ones I just put on two days ago. You can go without the quad shocks and not get ANY wheel hop!!! They were front jegs... The Hotckins complete kit. Included upper and lower control arms, all new energy suspension bushings, nuts, bolts, washers, and great directions. Just make sure you have a good set of 1/2 drive metric sockets especially 18 and 19mm

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Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

PeTr0 · 10-07-2001, 10:30 PM

Its the axel bolts on mine too...on one side the bolt head is rounded off already....does the nut come off too..it almost looks welded on there??

jz_mustang50 · 10-08-2001, 06:03 PM

Yes, it is welded on at the axle. The nut head is on the inside of the car. Make sure you are using a 6 point socket. I'm sure you'll round it off with anything but. You shouldn't be able to round it off using a 6 point.

------------------
Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

10-07-2001, 03:07 AM	#1
PeTr0 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Chicago, IL, USA Posts: 286	Quad Shock Removal I need to flip over my quad shocks to fit in my larger tires(255/40/17) in the rear. I cannot get the bolt or nut loose on the axel braket. The bolt it starting to get a little rounded off...I am getting a little frustraded. How do i get these things off?? should i just cut them off and get some good control arms? How bad would driving without them be for a little while. ------------------ Red 1993 Gt- 3.55 gears,flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer, 130 amp alt., underdrives,65mm T-body,MSD 6AL and blaster tfi coil sony cd player and changer, kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,firehawk sz50 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302. waiting to be installed: 190 lph fuel pump

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10-07-2001, 07:25 AM	#2
egiap's 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Mansfield, OH. Posts: 113	The nut at the quad shock is a 18mm. It is a locking nut and it will turn hard all the way. Get some PB Blaster and spray the nut. Let it set 1/2 an hour. Yes you do need those shocks. If you go with a torque arm you can remove them as well as upper control arms. As for turning them over the dust boot would hold road dirt and I dont think that would be good. My 2 cents, could be wrong. ------------------ Edward VanCura, Amsoil dealer. For information about amsoil synthetic oil and lubes leave me a message. Ask about preffered customer program and buy at dealer cost.

10-07-2001, 08:30 PM	#3
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	I had the same exact problem with my quad shock bolts at the axle... I ended up having the problem with both sides. The meathod of removal that I used involved two people. I had the back of the car jacked up and sitting on jack stands with the wheels off. Drivers Side: I put a 18mm socket on a 3 inch (i believe) extension and had a friend hold the socket to make sure it didn't slip off and start rounding off the bolt. I sad behind the car, partly under the rear bumper and push on the wrench downward with my foot very slowly but used alot of force (The longer the better for this wrench! It make a loud snapping noise when it finally broke loose. It was the only way I could see to do it. It took about a 1/2 hour to get one side out. It went hard the entire way. As for the passanger side I took my jack and possitioned the wrench in the same place and jacked up the wrench slowly, breaking the bolts loose. It worked!!! Had to do it that way twice... Now they're off for good. If you want some good control arms get the ones I just put on two days ago. You can go without the quad shocks and not get ANY wheel hop!!! They were front jegs... The Hotckins complete kit. Included upper and lower control arms, all new energy suspension bushings, nuts, bolts, washers, and great directions. Just make sure you have a good set of 1/2 drive metric sockets especially 18 and 19mm ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

10-07-2001, 10:30 PM	#4
PeTr0 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Chicago, IL, USA Posts: 286	Its the axel bolts on mine too...on one side the bolt head is rounded off already....does the nut come off too..it almost looks welded on there??

10-08-2001, 06:03 PM	#5
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	Yes, it is welded on at the axle. The nut head is on the inside of the car. Make sure you are using a 6 point socket. I'm sure you'll round it off with anything but. You shouldn't be able to round it off using a 6 point. ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.