Ignition and Idling problem still

1995gtStang · 07-25-2003, 06:16 AM

1995 Mustang GT 96,000 miles
Previously I had just an idling problem.... I would be at a complete stop... press the gas... it'd idle to about 500-600 rpms and almost die then surge to where it should have been in the first place.

I suspected the IAC Valve and Gasket... removed from the throttle body down to the air filter and cleaned everything I could. The springs in the IAC Valve where gunked up and mild to rough carbon build up came out in chunks after cleaning. The gasket was okay but replaced it anyway. After it all dried (cleaning solution) I put it all back together and reinstalled on the engine.

I started it up and it ran fine for about 15 minutes and then it died on me... at which point I tried to turn the key off and it was able to be pulled out but all the accesories were still on so I started it up again with no problem and I was then able to remove the key completely and the engine still ran. I'm going to replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder soon cuz I think that's the problem but anyone else have any ideas on this or the idling problem?

I will probably clean the egr and see if the egr slot into the intake is clogged. Also heard it might be a fuel pump problem. Also tried with the error KOEO and KOER tests but since I can't turn my engine off with the key it's kinda hard to set up for those tests in the first place. Any help PLEASE!

1995gtStang · 07-25-2003, 11:53 AM

ok i replaced the ignition switch with a brand spanking new echlin ignition switch part no. ECHKS6555 from Napa. It starts and will not disengage from run... I remove the key car still runs...

Please this is not a manual so I can't just kill it when I want to via the clutch. Any help or suggestions please AIM me at acousticreality9

1995gtStang · 07-26-2003, 12:23 AM

To anyone that reads this... and has the same starter problem... think back and think hard... Did you disengage the spring loaded tilt steering and have it slam to it's upmost position on a few occaisions or even at all?

From the ignition switch you put your key in and when you go to start the car it pushes a plastic rod down the tilting part of the steering colum which is connected to another plastic rod via a 3 or 4 mm wide "grommet" or rod that in turn pushes the last plastic piece over the "starter box" or starter relay switch and your car turns on without a problem. If you car does not shut off when you turn the key to the off position that 3 or 4 mm wide "grommet" or rod may have come loose between the two plastic rods. So was the case with mine...

I've yet to fix it because it's way hard to get to and I've got to get some torx wrenches to do it but I've unscrewed the starter relay box and manually push it to run and turn off the car... basically a nice way of hotwiring the car. So good luck to anyone else that unfortunately has that problem.

Also the MAF on my car is the idling problem... low voltage... any good ideas for replacement?

95mustanggt · 07-26-2003, 08:11 AM

Replace your MAF, it will cause your car to run really, really bad.

07-25-2003, 06:16 AM	#1
1995gtStang Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Nebraska Posts: 6	Ignition and Idling problem still 1995 Mustang GT 96,000 miles Previously I had just an idling problem.... I would be at a complete stop... press the gas... it'd idle to about 500-600 rpms and almost die then surge to where it should have been in the first place. I suspected the IAC Valve and Gasket... removed from the throttle body down to the air filter and cleaned everything I could. The springs in the IAC Valve where gunked up and mild to rough carbon build up came out in chunks after cleaning. The gasket was okay but replaced it anyway. After it all dried (cleaning solution) I put it all back together and reinstalled on the engine. I started it up and it ran fine for about 15 minutes and then it died on me... at which point I tried to turn the key off and it was able to be pulled out but all the accesories were still on so I started it up again with no problem and I was then able to remove the key completely and the engine still ran. I'm going to replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder soon cuz I think that's the problem but anyone else have any ideas on this or the idling problem? I will probably clean the egr and see if the egr slot into the intake is clogged. Also heard it might be a fuel pump problem. Also tried with the error KOEO and KOER tests but since I can't turn my engine off with the key it's kinda hard to set up for those tests in the first place. Any help PLEASE!

07-26-2003, 08:11 AM	#4
95mustanggt Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 2,875	Replace your MAF, it will cause your car to run really, really bad. __________________ 1995 Mustang GT 20016 F150 Lariat Super Crew

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07-25-2003, 11:53 AM	#2
1995gtStang Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Nebraska Posts: 6	ok i replaced the ignition switch with a brand spanking new echlin ignition switch part no. ECHKS6555 from Napa. It starts and will not disengage from run... I remove the key car still runs... Please this is not a manual so I can't just kill it when I want to via the clutch. Any help or suggestions please AIM me at acousticreality9

07-26-2003, 12:23 AM	#3
1995gtStang Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Nebraska Posts: 6	To anyone that reads this... and has the same starter problem... think back and think hard... Did you disengage the spring loaded tilt steering and have it slam to it's upmost position on a few occaisions or even at all? From the ignition switch you put your key in and when you go to start the car it pushes a plastic rod down the tilting part of the steering colum which is connected to another plastic rod via a 3 or 4 mm wide "grommet" or rod that in turn pushes the last plastic piece over the "starter box" or starter relay switch and your car turns on without a problem. If you car does not shut off when you turn the key to the off position that 3 or 4 mm wide "grommet" or rod may have come loose between the two plastic rods. So was the case with mine... I've yet to fix it because it's way hard to get to and I've got to get some torx wrenches to do it but I've unscrewed the starter relay box and manually push it to run and turn off the car... basically a nice way of hotwiring the car. So good luck to anyone else that unfortunately has that problem. Also the MAF on my car is the idling problem... low voltage... any good ideas for replacement?