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Old 04-21-2001, 10:56 PM   #1
bcinyuz
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Question WHO MAKES THE BEST MASS AIR METERS

JUST FOUND OUT THAT MY 73MM C&L AIR METER
HAS A PROBLEM WITH IT AND IM THINKING OF GETTING ANOTHER ONE, BUT DONT KNOW ALL THE DIFFERENT COMPANYS THAT MAKE THEM. I WOULD BE HAPPY IF SOMEONE COULD GIVE ME SOME SOUND ADVICE ON THIS.(THANKS)
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Old 04-22-2001, 03:25 AM   #2
StreetStang37
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There are better ones, but are they worth getting at all? Pro-M I think makes the best but the price is steep. There are cheaper ones that may not perform as well but are much more reasonable in price. What mod's do you have? What's wrong with your current meter?

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. mandrel bent cat back, High Flow H-Pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance
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Old 04-22-2001, 04:51 AM   #3
bcinyuz
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Quote:
Originally posted by bcinyuz:
JUST FOUND OUT THAT MY 73MM C&L AIR METER
HAS A PROBLEM WITH IT AND IM THINKING OF GETTING ANOTHER ONE, BUT DONT KNOW ALL THE DIFFERENT COMPANYS THAT MAKE THEM. I WOULD BE HAPPY IF SOMEONE COULD GIVE ME SOME SOUND ADVICE ON THIS.(THANKS)
My mods are.........


BBD COLD AIR INDUCTION
{DID HAVE C&L AIR METER NOW USING FACTORY METER BECAUSE IT MADE THE MOTOR SHAKE UNDER PART THROTTLE}
BBK 65MM TB
24# INJECTORS
EDELBROCK PERFORMER UPPER AND LOWER INTAKE
DART WINDSOR JR HEADS
7/8" STUDED ROLLER TIPED ROCKER ARMS
STOCK PISTONS
STOCK CAM
STOCK BORE AND STROKE
STOCK CRANK
ACCEL SUPER COIL
JOHNSON MOTORSPORTS COMPUTER CHIP
STOCK TIMMING


[This message has been edited by bcinyuz (edited 04-22-2001).]

[This message has been edited by bcinyuz (edited 04-22-2001).]
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Old 04-23-2001, 09:06 AM   #4
Killercanary
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The new 76mm C&L is "supposed" to be the best on the market right now in terms of making the most N/A HP. The Pro-m is also good, but I don't care what anyone says, I have spoken with several people that switched from a 75mm bullet to the 77mm Pro-m that is twice as much money, and they ran either the same or slower! The 77mm Pro-M is not worth the money, the 75mm Pro-M is a great "cheap" meter and it work well. I did hear a thing or too about the Pro-M a little while ago about it running rich through the midrange with 24lb injectors, but still, other than that I have never heard a bad thing about Pro-M.
BTW- you aren't using the stock MAF with the 24lb injectors are you? What was your fuel pressure set at with the C&L and 24lb injectors?

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95 GT convt' 5 speed, 3.73's,FMS HD clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, ASP alum. underdrive pulleys, Bassani offroad X pipe, 2 chmbr flowmasters, K&N w/o silencer, edelbrock performer intake, FRPP 65mm T-body, FRPP shorty headers, FRPP aluminum driveshaft.Hooker 4pt chrome car bar, Xenon/Wings West ground effects, custom interior
Best ET: 13.83
Best MPH: 98.55mph with Best 60': 1.91 on Nitto DR's
Homepage: <A HREF="http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary" TARGET=_blank>http://www.angelfire
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Old 04-23-2001, 09:51 AM   #5
IMPULSERACING
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Pro-M 75mm Bullet. Enough Said!

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92' LX Hatch 5 spd Edelbrock Performer Intake, pro-m 75mm MAF, 70mm T.B., 24lb injectors, 190lph, Mac fenderwall cold air induction, mallary ignition and coil, Cobra 1.7 rockers, BBK full length headers, 373:1 gear, upper and lower control arms, supersubs, 50/50's, Eibach front drag springs, Moroso rear trick springs, no sway bar, battery in hatch, compucar N20 kit
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Old 04-23-2001, 10:02 AM   #6
2FastLX
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I have the C&L 76mm meter and my engine kinda bucks at part throttle too when I am in too high of a gear. As long as my RPM is up above 1500rpm it is fine. But I was thinking that was my tranny because it is toast. Is that what yours is doing? Mine has a bit of a surging idle problem but other than that the engine runs fine when it's in neutral. I can push the throttle down slightly (where it normally bucks while driving) and it runs fine. It's just when I am driving it and cruising at low rpms it wants to buck. I put all my current mods on at the same time so I really have no idea what is causing this (if it isn't my tranny). I am getting a new tranny installed this week so i'll see then if the tranny was the culprit.

I guess now I can't really say if the C&L 76mm is the best which is what I was coming here to do =P If it still does this after the tranny is installed I'll try swapping a meter with a friend and see if that helps.

It may just be my new setup not wanting to run at those low RPMs because I used to shift into 5th at 45mph with no problems whatsoever. Now it seems I have to shift to 5th at 55mph.
------------------
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[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 04-23-2001).]
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Old 04-23-2001, 11:43 AM   #7
gt93mustang
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When I went from the stock MAF to the 73mm C&L a year or so ago, my car developed a slight miss. It was nothing major, so I just dealt with it thinking it was tuning or whatever. Well, recently I bought the C&L 76mm and put it on, and the car absolutely ran like crap. It wouldn't rev at all, it had NO power under 3000RPM, and it bucked and popped/missed under part throttle. I had to switch back to the 73mm to richen the mixture before it would even think about running. Now that I am using the 73mm again, I am still having the slight missing problems that I was, but it is nowhere like it was with the 76mm. I think I will be getting a Pro-M VERY soon.

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MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, March ram-air kit, underdrive pulleys, 73mm MAF, 75mm TB, Saleen Intake (ported), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 24lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and probably some more in there I forgot
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Old 04-23-2001, 11:55 AM   #8
DirtKing
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pro m 75 bullet all the way! I have had that low speed bucking before too...I always thought it was a combination of big duration with stock fuel injection. It went away with the sefi8lo. (so did the mass air)

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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI Procharged!
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Old 04-23-2001, 12:14 PM   #9
clearwaterms
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not to start a flame, but i have had great success with the C&L, and have heard alot of things bad about the PRO-M shorty, it is hard to tune, doesn't offer the adjustability that the C&L has, and cause alot of problems when dyno tuning a blower car. I have the C&L with the blower and love it, i can't see spending the extra money on a pro-M, maybe i am just lucky.
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Old 04-23-2001, 12:57 PM   #10
Bill Duke
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I use to have a C&L 73 a few years back and I had a a very jumpy idle. I then bought a Pro-M 75 calibrated for #24s and a cone filter because I was using a Moroso cold air kit. I had no problems at all with the Pro-m. I just recently upgraded to the C&L 76mm. When I reconnected my battery and started the car, the idle was smooth as ice but once I started driving, the car had no power and was sputtering and jerking as I was driving. I took into account that the computer had to relearn. After about 30 minutes the car was running great but with just a slight bucking at about 2200 to 2300 RPMs. I went home and replaced my moroso cold air kit with my stock air box and the car drives great now. I will be getting it on a dyno soon and I will let you know if there is any improvment.

------------------
Bill Duke

My Coupe
My Mods
12.68@107.6 N/A

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Old 04-23-2001, 01:06 PM   #11
bada$$lx
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Go w/ the Pro-M, price isn't the lowest priced unit, but it's really put together well. I'm happy w/ mine.....never had a problem.

------------------
'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; 190 lb fp; FPR; TFS track heat Intake - 12.513 @ 112 mph (Pre-inj/fuelpump/FPR/intake)
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Old 04-23-2001, 01:07 PM   #12
StreetStang37
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I have no problem with mine at all. Maybe your guy's meter's aren't getting a proper reading, I can't see it being the actual meters fault. Someone said if you turn it, it might get a better reading but I don't know, I didn't have to do that since mine is okay.

------------------
1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. mandrel bent cat back, High Flow H-Pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance
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Old 04-23-2001, 02:36 PM   #13
DemonGT
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i just put on the new c&l 76 MAF and inlet tube..so far my car runs fine...and the silver inlet tube looks good under the hood

------------------
'91 GT,91K,T-5,air silencer removed,racing clutch(previous owner put in so dont know what kind),K&N air filter,Aiwa deck,power acoustic amp,2 12" pianeers,Mac long tubes,Cat-back,off road H,FMS 9mm wires,Competition gauges,C&L 76mm MAF

Future Mods:3.73's,Pro 5.0,Shifter knob,E303 cam,cobra intake,65mm tb
ICQ#35670781
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Old 04-23-2001, 04:40 PM   #14
gt93mustang
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I'm going to be installing a Procharger soon. Which MAF would be the best choice for a blower?

------------------
MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, March ram-air kit, underdrive pulleys, 73mm MAF, 75mm TB, Saleen Intake (ported), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 24lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and probably some more in there I forgot
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Old 04-23-2001, 09:59 PM   #15
1BAD89
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I have a C & L 76mm mass air, and my friend has a C & L 73mm mass air, and they work just great. I would recommend them to anyone. You guy's probaly got them calibrated for the wrong injectors, or your actual mass air sensor(the wires inside the housing) is damaged.
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Old 04-23-2001, 11:00 PM   #16
bcinyuz
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THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR REPLIES, IT IS NICE TO KNOW THAT THERE IS NOTHING ELSE WRONG WITH MY ENGINE, AND THAT A NEW METER WILL CORRECT MY PROBLEM.
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Old 04-24-2001, 10:08 AM   #17
silver_pilate
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My C&L 76mm unit has been on for a little over a week now. I had absolutely no problems other than re-drilling the MAF mounting bracket about 1" over to clear the strut tower.

I run a large cam (it already has a searching idle to begin with) and haven't noticed any difference in idle quality. And I know that I picked up a few hp.

The instructions say it is designed to run with the stock filter box and a K&N pannel filter. That's what I run, and it runs great. Running an open filter element, espcially with a larger MAF sensor will almost always lead to idle problems.

--nathan

------------------
--silver_pilate

'91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods...

Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh...
--Texas Panhandle--
Check out my site
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