Need info on a Cam setup

289 · 10-06-2003, 11:38 AM

I am going to put this setup in my 89 GT I need to know if my valve springs and stock heads can take it.

Steeda #19 CAM
Specifications:
&nbspLift .480 w/1.6 Rockers
&nbspDuration 220° @ 0.050 intake
&nbspDuration 226° @ 0.050 exhaust
&nbspLobe Separation 115°

ANd 1.7 steeda roller rockers

Will this damage my stock valve springs?
Please don't advise me if you are guessing, thanks

Also to replace the cam does the water pump have to come off.
Thanks

84gt347 · 10-06-2003, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 289

Also to replace the cam does the water pump have to come off.
Thanks

yes

QuantumMotorsports · 10-06-2003, 02:00 PM

If the cam you are going to use lifts to .480 with 1.6 rockers, then that means it will lift to .510 with 1.7 rockers. This is a pretty tall lift for stock springs that have been used. I'm sure it will work, and run, but you may have valve float problems at high RPMs and you are setting yourself up to break valves sooner than you would with a stock lift. So, to answer your question, yes it will run, and it will work, but your valve springs will wear out sooner, but considering how long they last normally, i wouldn't worry about it. If you ever change heads, buy springs that are rated for the higher lift.

And yes, the water pump, timing cover, timing gear set, upper and lower intake (unless you use the magnetic lifter tools to hold the lifters up) , valve covers, harmonic balancer, alternator bracket, and A/C bracket all have to come off, as well as the radiator has to be moved if the motor is in the car. You have to be able to slide a two and a half foot long camshaft straight out the front of the engine. Good luck.

Murdock · 10-07-2003, 10:43 AM

I would agree with QM. Depending on how hard the car is ran and the amount of miles on the springs.

Just out of curiosity why the Steeda #19? Is the car going to see boost? The B303 IMO I think would maybe be a better choice.

289 · 10-07-2003, 11:38 AM

yeah I'm thinking i will change springs I don't want a valve in my piston. what springs can be run to .510 can someone give me a brand that will not float as much and not break thanks. And how do I keep them from fallin durning change over.

QuantumMotorsports · 10-07-2003, 02:12 PM

Some people use compressed air to hold the valves closed while changing springs. You need a bleeddown tester fitting (screws into the spark plug hole and hooks up to a compressor) or you could maybe try putting the piston at TDC and just letting the valve sit on the piston while you change the spring and somehow try to pull it up when you put the new spring and retainer back on. Don't know how well that would work. Compressed air works best.

302 LX Eric · 10-07-2003, 04:03 PM

It always a good idea to check piston to valve clearance too - no matter what setup you're running. Better to be safe than sorry.

E

billheis · 10-09-2003, 08:18 PM

I got the crane kit for my heads. They come with springs, retainers and keepers. Watch those keepers because theyre diffeerent for for intake and exhaust. I don't remember part number but they are for 87 to 95 5.0 heads. If I remember correctly Ithink theyll go 550 lift
Bill

10-06-2003, 02:00 PM	#3
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	If the cam you are going to use lifts to .480 with 1.6 rockers, then that means it will lift to .510 with 1.7 rockers. This is a pretty tall lift for stock springs that have been used. I'm sure it will work, and run, but you may have valve float problems at high RPMs and you are setting yourself up to break valves sooner than you would with a stock lift. So, to answer your question, yes it will run, and it will work, but your valve springs will wear out sooner, but considering how long they last normally, i wouldn't worry about it. If you ever change heads, buy springs that are rated for the higher lift. And yes, the water pump, timing cover, timing gear set, upper and lower intake (unless you use the magnetic lifter tools to hold the lifters up) , valve covers, harmonic balancer, alternator bracket, and A/C bracket all have to come off, as well as the radiator has to be moved if the motor is in the car. You have to be able to slide a two and a half foot long camshaft straight out the front of the engine. Good luck. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

10-07-2003, 10:43 AM	#4
Murdock Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 100	I would agree with QM. Depending on how hard the car is ran and the amount of miles on the springs. Just out of curiosity why the Steeda #19? Is the car going to see boost? The B303 IMO I think would maybe be a better choice. __________________ LARZRACECARS larzracecars.com

10-07-2003, 02:12 PM	#6
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Some people use compressed air to hold the valves closed while changing springs. You need a bleeddown tester fitting (screws into the spark plug hole and hooks up to a compressor) or you could maybe try putting the piston at TDC and just letting the valve sit on the piston while you change the spring and somehow try to pull it up when you put the new spring and retainer back on. Don't know how well that would work. Compressed air works best. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

10-07-2003, 04:03 PM	#7
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	It always a good idea to check piston to valve clearance too - no matter what setup you're running. Better to be safe than sorry. E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

10-09-2003, 08:18 PM	#8
billheis Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fernandina Beach, FL 32034 Posts: 178	I got the crane kit for my heads. They come with springs, retainers and keepers. Watch those keepers because theyre diffeerent for for intake and exhaust. I don't remember part number but they are for 87 to 95 5.0 heads. If I remember correctly Ithink theyll go 550 lift Bill __________________ Bill Heiser 90 Convertable 5.0 LX, ported E7s w/ THumper valve job, TFS street, FR 65mm TB, B cam w/1.7 cobra rockers, kirban AFPR, Mac CAI, Mac Headers, off road h, 3 chamber flows, Crane ign. box, 3:73s, Art Carr AOD & 2600 converter

10-06-2003, 11:38 AM	#1
289 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Mount Joy, PA , U.S. Posts: 198	Need info on a Cam setup I am going to put this setup in my 89 GT I need to know if my valve springs and stock heads can take it. Steeda #19 CAM Specifications: &nbspLift .480 w/1.6 Rockers &nbspDuration 220° @ 0.050 intake &nbspDuration 226° @ 0.050 exhaust &nbspLobe Separation 115° ANd 1.7 steeda roller rockers Will this damage my stock valve springs? Please don't advise me if you are guessing, thanks Also to replace the cam does the water pump have to come off. Thanks

10-07-2003, 11:38 AM	#5
289 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Mount Joy, PA , U.S. Posts: 198	yeah I'm thinking i will change springs I don't want a valve in my piston. what springs can be run to .510 can someone give me a brand that will not float as much and not break thanks. And how do I keep them from fallin durning change over.

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