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#1 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() Tomorrow I plan on installing my heads. The book says to turn the rocker arm nut until the pushrod slack is gone and then turn it another 3/4 turn.
That seems a little much...doesn't it....for hydraulic lifters? My buddy says 1/4 turn is more like it and that 3/4 turns is what you would use for solid lifters(cold lash). Which one should I use? 1/4 or 3/4 turn? My book is new but the copyright is dated in the 70's Hell, it still says to use aluminum spray paint on head gaskets. That's an old method isn't it? You shouldn't have to do that now a days with the high quality gaskets like fel-pro and such..should you?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#2 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() I have been using the 1/4 turn method for years. I have never had any problems. 3/4 sounds like way to much.
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#3 |
NX dealer-man
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Peoria, Illinois
Posts: 977
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![]() Zero lash and then a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn, typically....
As for head gaskets, the Fel-pro 9333 PT-1 is a great gasket for the price. And, no, you don't need any spray paint. They are coated with graphite. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 141
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![]() The way i have done it is backward, but has worked everytime. tighten it passed zero lash, a few turns, than slowly loosen it till you can spin the push rod, but has drag on it, than tighten exactly 1/4 turn.
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Well, I think you're all nuts, but what do I know?
I always tighten them 3/4 of a turn, unless they haven't been converted to studs, in which case I tighten to 20 pounds, making sure it doesn't go more than 1 full turn to get there. The following is the proceedure I have used for years when installing rollers on a SBF with studs (posted in the Tech Tips Forum at RHC): 1) Install all 16, and snug down the nuts by hand. 2) Rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke. 3) Check the rotor in the distributor, and verify that it is pointing at the #1 wire on the cap. If it's not, rotate the engine 360 degrees. 4) To find the point of zero lash, spin the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger while slowly tightening the nut with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Tighten the following rockers until you feel the first bit of drag on the spinning pushrod: Cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, Cylinder #3 exhaust, Cylinder #4 intake, Cylinder #7 exhaust, Cylinder #8 intake. 5) Now tighten each of those 3/4 of a turn, and lock them. 6) Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so the balancer reads TDC again. 7) With a 1/4" ratchet, tighten these rockers (again, to zero lash): Cylinder #3 intake, Cylinder #2 exhaust, Cylinder #7 intake, Cylinder #6 exhaust. 8) Now tighten each of those 3/4 of a turn, and lock them. 9) Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and with the ratchet, tighten to zero lash on these rockers: Cylinder #2 intake Cylinder #4 exhaust Cylinder #5 intake and exhaust Cylinder #6 intake Cylinder #8 exhaust 10) Now tighten each of those 3/4 of a turn, and lock them. Take care, ~Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Lakewood, Wa
Posts: 161
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![]() I assume this same technique will work on the newer mopar magnum engines? The magnum heads are pedestal mount like the fords. Good info for when the 360 goes in the Aspen later this year.
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'77 Aspen R/T: 318 w/273 heads, 4spd, Hurst Shifter, 600 holley, edelbrock intake, 8 3/4 axle, 3.23 sure-grip, dual 3" exhaust, MP cam 276 / 276 duration 490 / 490 mech solid lifter, Super Stock Springs (15.65@88 3900lbs) '91 Mustang LX: .030 Bored, Typhoon Intake, 4.10's, Lentech VB, BBK 70mm TB, FMS A/C elim bracket, 19lbs inject, off road H-pipe, 75mm pro-m MAF, FRP unequal shorty, stormin normin hood. 3420 Lbs w/ 220 (me) and 13 gal gas. '02 SS Camaro |
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#7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Only if it has the same firing order.
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#8 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() I doubt the firing order is the same for Mopar. I know the older motors(small blocks) had Chevy firing orders...........1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
MOPAR 1 , I'm curious....do you have full duel exhaust on that Aspen? Years ago when I had a Volare I had to run pipes out the sides under the doors because there was not enough room towards the rear for pipes or mufflers. My mufflers and headers always scraped the ground going over bumps. It has an old 273 with an A-833 4-speed and 4:11 gears. That's after I tore the weak but tough 225 slant six out of it.
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#9 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Lakewood, Wa
Posts: 161
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![]() Quote:
The guy I bought the Aspen from put full dual exhaust running all the way to the rear bumper. He had to cut and reweld the gas tank to make it work. Get this, it's DUAL 3" EXHAUST with MAGNA FLOWS. It's brand new, so I just cant bring myself to take a saws-all to it. Headers are always a prob for Mopar A and F bodies. Going around linkage and scarping the ground. TTI's are good and dont do the above, but are expensive ($500+). Im looking at modifiing Patriot Tight Tuck Headers($180) to aviod all that. There shorty types, but should have no probs with the 450 horse 360 Magnum
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'77 Aspen R/T: 318 w/273 heads, 4spd, Hurst Shifter, 600 holley, edelbrock intake, 8 3/4 axle, 3.23 sure-grip, dual 3" exhaust, MP cam 276 / 276 duration 490 / 490 mech solid lifter, Super Stock Springs (15.65@88 3900lbs) '91 Mustang LX: .030 Bored, Typhoon Intake, 4.10's, Lentech VB, BBK 70mm TB, FMS A/C elim bracket, 19lbs inject, off road H-pipe, 75mm pro-m MAF, FRP unequal shorty, stormin normin hood. 3420 Lbs w/ 220 (me) and 13 gal gas. '02 SS Camaro |
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#10 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Quote:
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#11 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() I followed PKRWUD's advice exactly as he stated when adjusting my valves on my Edel. alum. heads (stud mounted) last month. They came out perfect. Been running great ever since. Even after several nitrous runs!
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