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Old 04-17-2001, 07:22 PM   #21
Chris_H
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I take it that any radiator shop can ream out my radiator right? I am taking the car in to my mechanic on friday to leave it with him for a week while I am out of town to have him track down this oil leak. I guess at the same time i can have the radiator cleaned out. If this doesn't solve the problem, should I just go back to the stock fan setup or upgrade to the heavy duty fan and clutch? Once again thanks for all the replies on this.

Chris
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Old 04-17-2001, 10:00 PM   #22
Violent84
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I doubt that changing back to your other pulley will help much. You can always try though. I'd go to a 160 stat and drain the system , flush it good, and fill it back with straight water and add some 40 below.
Just my $.02.

later,
Violent

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Old 04-18-2001, 01:21 AM   #23
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Ok, Ive had cooling problems, and I'm sure I can help you out there.

First things to check is to make sure your fan is working and coming on.

It cant hurt to goto the stock water pump pulley, and its going to cost you maybe 2-4hp at the most.

If you have the stock radiator I'm sure that is the problem. Get a good 3core brass unit. I run one and it works great. I think it was about $150? Maybe less, I dont remember it was a while ago.

I run that 3 core with 80/20 water/coolant and redline water wetter with a permacool 16" electric fan and the stock water pump, with a 180 thermo and the car stays dead cool under ANY conditions. 105+ degrees or more.

Changing the thermo if your car isnt cooling already will do NOTHING for you. Get the radiator and your problems will be solved.

Skyler

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Old 04-18-2001, 08:59 AM   #24
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Skyman:

When you say under any conditions, do you mean with the A/C on in traffic? Where did you get the permacool fan from? How many cfm's does that pull?

Thanks for any help you could give.

Jason
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Old 04-18-2001, 09:34 AM   #25
Smokedawg
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Well I got my perma-cool from jegs. I think it pulls 2800cfm. Does that sound right?? I think its was like 20 something dollars and 9 for a spacer. Warning: If you go with a three core radiator and get the permacool fan. Dont go with the 2 1/4 spacer they will try to sell you. Its to big and will hit the radiator. Go with the 1 or 1 1/2 inch.

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Old 04-18-2001, 12:29 PM   #26
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gotta tell you I have the black magic 150 and I don't think it cools as well as the stock fan and shroud..the electric shroud does not cover the entire radiator like the stock one. This means the fan cools a smaller portion of the radiator. I'd go with mach 1 and install the fluidyne unit first though. You can never have enough radiator, thermostats and everything else are pretty much bandaids. (I run waterwetter and a 160 robert shaw.

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Old 04-18-2001, 06:09 PM   #27
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thats right, cant have to much rad! I forgot to mention, i also swapped back to stock water pump pully when i was running hot. it helped some, but not much. After getting the new rad. i went back to the underdrive pully for good. I used to run the underdrive water pump pully in the winter, and put the stock pully on in the summer. I had like 4 different length fan belts..lol.

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Old 04-19-2001, 04:00 PM   #28
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Ya, disconnect the rad, and rinse it out (run the water backwards). Maybe even try using a solvent... just rince it out well so it doesn't get into the heater core!

THe exhaust isn't getting clogged is it? THat can really cause some heating. THe stock 4 cat H-pipe sucks... and it could be pretty much shot.

The Black tragic fan is only rated for the 225HP. Anymore (or A/C), and it won't cut it. An SN95 or Mark VIII fan is really the way to go. You'll need the 130 amp alt as well.

I wouldn't use the 160 thermostat, but I do highly recommend a hi-flow 180... it really does make a difference.

Stock pulleys overdrive the waterpump by 29%.
March underdrives the waterpump by 10%.
March underdrive crank & going back to the stock WP pulley will overdrive it by 6% (some help).

Since you've got the electric fan, you could even go to the 93 cobra over-drive WP pulley, which brings it back up to 29% (with the underdrive crank). Since the fan & clutch are gone, the waterpump should still last a long time.

If that doesn't work, at least get a 3 core rad!
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Old 04-19-2001, 04:27 PM   #29
Chris_H
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I want to thank everyone for their help on this. When I get back from my trip to DC I will head to the radiator shop and see if they can give it a real good flushing. I really don't have the facilities to do it here at the house. If that doesn't seem to help, then I will talk the wife into letting me get an aluminum radiator. It's just sad when I thought this fan and this new pump would actually help me and it hasn't. Ohh well, lesson learned I guess. Thanks again for all the help.

Chris
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Old 04-20-2001, 11:06 AM   #30
LX XLR8R
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its all in the fan..i had a 12 sec aluminum headed stang with a 4cly radiator in it and it cooled like a mofo..you know why..i had a v-6 tourus station wagon electric fan in it..in my new car i have a 94-99 stang fan in it..the fit is better but it still has the same motor and fan blades as the tourus fan..

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Old 04-20-2001, 12:48 PM   #31
eatsgm
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I have a black magic fan and it works
fine ... ... when blades turn...
The kind of black box we must install
in the circuit act as a resistor and
in my case the fan works 5-10 min then
stop because that resistor become to hot.
The black box when hot became an open circuit. If it did that one time it will
always do. I have not solved the problem yet and maybe that s your problem too. just chek
that dawn box.
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Old 04-21-2001, 01:56 AM   #32
shovelnose
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Quote:
Originally posted by eatsgm:
I have a black magic fan and it works
fine ... ... when blades turn...
The kind of black box we must install
in the circuit act as a resistor and
in my case the fan works 5-10 min then
stop because that resistor become to hot.
The black box when hot became an open circuit. If it did that one time it will
always do. I have not solved the problem yet and maybe that s your problem too. just chek
that dawn box.

I don't know about the black box you are talking about, but I hope the fan is on a relay. My buddy had his wired with 18 ga. and a switch. We put a relay and 12 ga. and the fan ran twice as fast. Of course the 12 ga. helped alot.

Relays are plentiful in the wreckers. My choice has been late 80 to 90's chevy v6 cars. They are small and easy to wire. I know, I know Chevy part, but they work. I also admit the delco batteries work good too.
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Old 04-22-2001, 12:21 AM   #33
RobertD
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Chris, my car has been doing the same. Stop by Yearwood and pick up a Mr. Gasket balanced stat. It helped me out last year. I recenly picked one up again...hopefully it works again. Give me a call if you want me to pick up the stat, I can save it for you until you get back into town. I'll e-mail you the #.

My car will hit 230 with the air on in Mesa St. traffic. Tonight it hit 210 w/o the air!

If my car continues this sh*t I'll step up the radiator. My stock rad is only 2 years old, but not efficient enough IMHO.

Ford should have made a HD cooling system mandatory for us poor suckers stuck out here...

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