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Old 10-16-2004, 09:56 AM   #1
ruquick
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Default 5 speed conversion to AOD

I have a 90 mustang 5.0 that is a 5 spd. I have owned the car for 7 years and I'm getting tired of the 5 spd in traffic. What would it take to convert it over to an automatic? Could some one point me to some links or something. I have done an search and can't find anything. If there is anyone here that done it please let me know what all has to be done. Thanks
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Old 10-16-2004, 11:59 AM   #2
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Its as simple as removing your clutch pedal and quadrant. Changing your, flywheel and bolting up your choice of torque converter and auto tranny. You will also need a different cross member and drive shaft.

Its pretty simple and a search of this forum would probably get you tons of info.
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Old 10-16-2004, 02:47 PM   #3
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you also need a flexplate as well as a tv cable
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Old 10-16-2004, 04:47 PM   #4
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Driveshafts are compatible....no need to buy a different one. For the crossmember, just grind the welds, slide the member all the way rearward and re-tack.
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Old 10-16-2004, 06:13 PM   #5
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What is a tv cable? What about the computer will I need to change that?

Thanks
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Old 10-16-2004, 06:14 PM   #6
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http://www.windsorfox.com/
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Old 10-16-2004, 07:55 PM   #7
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tv cable or kickdown cable ..or whatever people call it, runs from the tranny to the tbody and regulates shifting of the tranny, and yes you will need an aod computer
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Old 10-16-2004, 08:51 PM   #8
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What about my h pipe, will I have to change that also?
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:07 PM   #9
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nah should be ok ..well im pretty sure anyways
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:11 AM   #10
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Computer does not need to be changed. In fact, you're best off if you can put an A9L from a manual car in it. X-pipe, headers, nothing else needs to be changed. Here's what you'll need:

AOD transmission
Torque converter
Flex plate w/ bolts
AOD block plate
dispstick w/ tube
transmission cooler (or equipped radiator)
cooler lines
TV cable (unless full manual valve body)
shifter w/ cable

The manual computer can stay. The manual cross member can be modified, and the manual speedometer cable will reach, although its a tight stretch. The manual electrical harness works but you'll need the AOD pigtail that goes from the body harness to the transmission.

You don't even have to change pedal assemblies if you don't want to. I tucked my clutch cable behind the carpet for more than a year before I finally swapped out pedal assemblies.

BTW: You'll also have to jumper the neutral safety switches for the clutch pedal when you do swap out the pedals. There's actually two switches that need to go from normally open to normally closed for the shifter park/nuetral function to work properly.
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2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2

"There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:24 AM   #11
ruquick
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Chambers
Computer does not need to be changed. In fact, you're best off if you can put an A9L from a manual car in it. X-pipe, headers, nothing else needs to be changed. Here's what you'll need:

AOD transmission
Torque converter
Flex plate w/ bolts
AOD block plate
dispstick w/ tube
transmission cooler (or equipped radiator)
cooler lines
TV cable (unless full manual valve body)
shifter w/ cable

The manual computer can stay. The manual cross member can be modified, and the manual speedometer cable will reach, although its a tight stretch. The manual electrical harness works but you'll need the AOD pigtail that goes from the body harness to the transmission.

You don't even have to change pedal assemblies if you don't want to. I tucked my clutch cable behind the carpet for more than a year before I finally swapped out pedal assemblies.

BTW: You'll also have to jumper the neutral safety switches for the clutch pedal when you do swap out the pedals. There's actually two switches that need to go from normally open to normally closed for the shifter park/nuetral function to work properly.
I already have a A9L in my car, I was just told that it would not work. I was also told that I would have to cut up the trans tunnel, is this true?

One more thing here's a little more info: The car is a 1990 mustang GT 5 spd. I want to convert it over to an LX automatic. I have already got the LX front & rear bumper, taillights, all the side moldings, both LX front fenders, and the LX hatch because of the spoiler. Would I be better off just selling the car and buying a LX auto? I know I have a lot of work a head of me but I have had the car for 8 years and hate to get rid of it.

Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 10-17-2004, 04:47 PM   #12
Jeff Chambers
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Did the same conversion, 1990 Mustang GT 5-spd to an AOD. Didn't have to touch the trans tunnel, but I put in a B&M Pro-stick, not a stock shifter. I don't believe that there were any differences between the 5-speed and AOD tubs, the only differences I'm aware of are some minor stamping differences at the mid-year re-tooling, which most people wouldn't even notice if you pointed them out.
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CRT Performance
2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH
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"There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:51 PM   #13
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The cutting that was mentioned was for the shifter hole area. It's ever so slightly different. Just get 4 zipties and yank them in real tight. Holds the shifter down solid as 4 screws would and the automatic shifter doesnt get much use anyways so there's no durability problems.
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:24 PM   #14
ruquick
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Chambers
The manual electrical harness works but you'll need the AOD pigtail that goes from the body harness to the transmission.


BTW: You'll also have to jumper the neutral safety switches for the clutch pedal when you do swap out the pedals. There's actually two switches that need to go from normally open to normally closed for the shifter park/nuetral function to work properly.
Could you tell me more about this?

Thanks
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:44 AM   #15
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There's a switch on the back of the clutch pedal's pivot point. Just snip the 2 wire connector off and connect the 2 wires together. As for the pigtail, it is the socket looking connector that attaches to the pinlike base above the drivers side of the transmission pan about halfway down the tranmission. It signals when the trans is in reverse and neutral. This is what signals the starter relay that it is ok to start the engine and also it signals the backup lights to turn on. You can splice the t-5's harness in here but I remembered that the wires were different colors on the pigtail and the body harness so a little trial and error might be called for.
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